nerdstrike

They'd better be doing something about the driving position. The previous gen yaris has you up high and with a horrid pedal position. Reminds me of driving a van.

My Eagell-branded garage has neglected to mention spark plug changes to me at all at 60k. Fortunately I have done it myself. At this rate I'll have to go self-service.

According to this graph: https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/toyota_gt86_pro_d-4s , the number of GT86 pro's potentially available after 3-year PCP/lease type deals will at most be 200 (but it will be much less). If you waited another year, it would be a similar number. Given the number of Toyota dealers in the UK, it'll be 1 car or less per dealer, ignoring colour and spec. You'll really struggle to find the right car that way! You might see some more Blue Editions if you waited until late 2020. The GT86 is a low volume car now that the initial sales are over.

With respect to freeing stuck brakes, I rode in a LR Discovery shell with seized wheels. We took the pads out and it still wouldn't budge so we towed it down the road to try to free the hubs with me straddling the transmission brake. Three went fairly quickly and rolled, but we went a good 50 metres before the last wheel found a drain cover and finally gripped hard enough to break loose. In other words, it can take serious effort to free up a wheel, as you are limited by tyre grip. If the tow-truck dragging it onto the trailer didn't do it, then disassembly seems a necessary step.

Slider pins indeed. The RX8 liked to bind the rear brakes when the sliders didn't get adequate care, but I don't recall any binding hard like this.

The data includes a D4S trace, but I don't know what it means, and it seems to be more than just on-off. Probably versions of Both, A, B, none. I know that dual injection systems ideally vary their duty dependent on economy versus power goals, but I don't know if the GT86 system is that sophisticated.

Scoobypedia discusses the Subaru knock mitigation algorithm in excruciating detail: http://scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/SubaruKnockControlStrategyExplained The implication of your chart (very helpful apart from the axis autoscaling being useless sometimes) is that there are 4 knock events during your drive, possibly corresponding the some abrupt changes in throttle, although without particular pattern. The knock strategy does what it does around these events, but the response is hard to predict due to the complexity of the response. I can't say whether knock events are common or uncommon having not been able to log this myself.

FWIW I managed to drop a few dBs of white noise by sticking foam on rear wheel arches behind the interior. It was a nice change for moderate effort, but you can't do that with the front wheels particularly. The GT86 suffers from quite a lot of road noise, due to the lightness/cheapness objective.

More like the "don't leave your key in the boot" detector. It might serve to improve reception too.

I guess once the weak parts have snapped you can turn up the boost on the remainders?

Sounds about right, impressive even with boost. In normal driving you're using 10-30 bhp. On track you're using full throttle all the time.

I've got a dirt cheap low profile jack (standard shape, but with a sloped down front and lower seat) and it's tight under the front, you tend to bounce the handle off the undertray even at standard ride height, and it's also a long long way to the diff at the back. You really want one of those aluminium fancy ones for an easier lift. If your jack is cheap, don't push it to the top of its range. It's not worth it!

A note on ceratec and Slick 50, these are different classes of snake oil! Ceratec is an oil additive that might change the effective oil properties for the better for certain degrees of usage, slick 50 is a teflon coating agent that hopes to coat and decrease friction between parts. I would avoid the latter as it can only work in areas where oil gaps exist and would only ever be of benefit if the car is abused when cold. Better to look after your car than to rely on additives that may also add debris or chemical effect in elements like pumps. As for modifying the oil, it's probably adjusting shear resistance but it will inevitably bring a trade off of some kind. You might as well run a different grade of oil instead. I imagine additives are of greatest relevance in workhorse machinery rather than track toys and light duty commuting.

I'd have a look at suspension top mounts and look to see if there's any corrosion on the springs. Could be any part of the suspension really. You're not triggering traction control are you? Can you see the little yellow flash of boringness when you do it?

It could be the hinge position that is at fault rather than the bonnet stops, assuming it never got stressed in a shunt. Do you have any aftermarket gubbins like strut braces under there? Jay's tip to see if it contacts is a good idea. You might also look to see if the locking spring comes in dead centre to the hole as that might help you judge if the bonnet needs repositioning.

There's always the ebay store: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-GT86-Inner-Rear-View-Mirror-Assembly-2018-SU00307866-/223101272801?hash=item33f1df42e1 That one is possibly for newer cars only, although you never know when it comes to accessories. I got mine replaced under warranty via dealer. Do call up your local parts desk for a price, and you'll be sure to get the right part.

Wow that PCB is properly congested. To be fair, a improperly mounted heatsink is a textbook setup for overheating. Hopefully it hasn't done any permanent heat damage. The Cortex A53 MP is also used in the Galaxy Note 4, it should be able to throttle before it cooks. In principle it also supports 8-channel audio direct off the chip. Can you see other audio hardware in there or is it doing everything on chip? Apart from the torus on the right, which looks pretty small, I can't see any signs of audio capability (but it's quite a small image). Is there a separate amplifier board in there?

I like the squished trumpet filter underneath the brace. Whatever it takes to jam in that lovely M5(?) engine. Not enough height for a proper intake plenum I suppose, but then the engine does come from a much taller vehicle.

Interesting. It looks like the bumper is intended for TRD-style twin exits. I like the pseudocarbon detail and wheels.

Are we talking the point where the wires meet the coil pack? They don't feel very robust, that's for sure. They're on the cylinder heads so they're not particularly in heat's way apart from the coils themselves. All plastics harden with time, it just sucks that you can't buy the bits without the rest of the loom (not least of which how much a pain it will be to rewire them).

In the standard car, steady-state coolant is usually in the low-mid-80s I believe, rising up to 105 which is about as high as it shouild get with out it being a concern. Oil tracks coolant except under duress when it can rise well above, with the perceived wisdom round here to be a max of 130 before cooldown is essential. With a turbo at stake, you might want to keep it lower still.

I'd argue that 215/45 versus 225/40 is very close in circumference. Nothing to worry about. You have to expect a change in the handling balance in the corners near the limits, especially if your spares haven't taken a beating on track. I don't know how picky VSC is compared with other stability systems, but I presume it doesn't care about differences between axles, otherwise it wouldn't allow tyre slip in straight lines like it does.

It's true that there are already some poorly observed rules about exhaust volume, but the new regs will drop the noise ceiling which in turn may need additional pressure to enforce. We'll see.

Back on the summer tyres again, bit of a waste of a day, plus the pair of tyres to replace. Boo!

Just writing from the verge where my winter tyre has a big old puncture. It's on the inner shoulder so that won't repair either. I thought it was just slippery roads initially!