nerdstrike

I'm mostly curious as to how you got your discs to glow in a random carpark... Was this the bedding in?

I have a sneaking suspicion that I've lost airflow to the footwells now. Sometimes I miss the big mechanical controls that used to do this job.

A well-fettled daily indeed!

Dude, you are having a bad month! Don't forget in the write-off scenario, there may be some clawback if you're willing to buy back your car and fix it without rip-off quotes. You have to be confident you're not buying a pile of hidden damage and it works best on premium brands where the official spares cost a kidney, but it can sometimes let you keep the car for a profit. Fair warning: The rear quarter would be expensive to get perfect again and selling a cat C/D car can be hard. In bangernomics terms, it can be worth a go, but not if you're limited on time or very proud of your immaculate car. I hope you're lucky, and nothing mechanical got bent. That being the case it should be economically repairable. Even at knock-down valuations, most '86s will be worth near £8-10k, which wins quite a lot of repair from the insurer. Car accidents always cost you money.

This one sounds like exhaust restriction, or maybe a stuck brake. Did you TD exhaust change subsequently include a decat? A pending code is waiting for a repeat to log it as a permanent error. Otherwise it can self-clear, and leave you with no justification for further investigation. Your road trip will be utterly miserable if the car is acting up, but it's also intermittent so you're going to struggle to prove it's fixed. I think @vanko25 makes a good point. The long tube headers come up in front of the pulleys, so not very far from the sensors. You could temporarily lag them with a heat shield without huge difficulty. P000A means intake, i.e. the upper cams, and I think it would be one on the side without the oil filter, but maybe someone else can confirm? I mean near the dipstick in this picture: You could try re-seating the connectors for the sensor, and perhaps having a spare sensor in the car in case it gives up entirely and you need to get it fixed, but that's a desperate measure. Much more likely an engine out job to get into the heads. Do you have a healthy battery? Voltage issues can cause all kinds of gremlins. Is the oil the Toyota recommended stuff, or something else? At this stage you're weighing up cost of various approaches versus the cost of hiring a car for the road-trip, and waiting for a more precise diagnostic. It's £££ all the way

Greetings!

Don't forget where they wash your car whether you want them to or not, and you find innumerable paint swirls the next time it's sunny

Nice job. Looks frustrating and time consuming!

Looking at the commission website on this agreement, I see: Improved export conditions TO Japan, dropping of many tariffs in Japan They can't sell us whale meat EU Agriculture products can be sold in Japan with fewer restrictions Financial service access to certain Japanese cities for EU companies We can buy more trains There are still tariffs on most Japanese imports, but they are lower than WTO baseline, e.g. 3% for plastic car bumpers It's VAT that's the real kicker on non-luxury imports when coupled with single item shipping. We are in a great position to sell British car parts to Japan...

It sounds more like it needs to recalibrate the map position. I wonder if it needs to be powered up with the GPS unit in working order for it to self-calibrate? Has the head unit been unpowered when you connected the GPS antenna? My first instinct is off and on again. Doing a map update might trigger a similar effect.

A bit of heatsoak can really mess with engine starting, as the perceived air temperature is out of whack. I'm thinking about minutes rather than hours between starts though. An underperforming spark plug/ignition coil can lead to a weak start too. If it continues I'd think about inspecting them for signs of fouling, corrosion or arcing as well as checking battery condition under load. Shame the plugs are tricky to whip out.

Eyes wide open, you won't regret your choice. A bigger calliper, pad and disc will need a less severe pad to function well. There's nothing like having meaty callipers to make a car look like it means business. I'm pleased to hear at least some of the relevant BBKs are fit and forget.

A high octane map with low octane fuel would go poorly at full throttle, probably check engine light or even misfire. A reasonable remap takes away some of the margin for crappy fuel and higher altitudes and car-to-car variation in exchange for a percent or two more torque. Your nitrous oxide emissions would go up a bit too. Ideally you make your changes on a dyno so you can can calibrate your own safety margin, but it's expensive for the sake of say 4 Nm more torque.

If you're cooking up in 15 minutes, a high temp road pad might give you another 3-5 minutes more before you start shredding. You also get better bite when hot, but their cold bite will be less keen. Are you blueing your discs? Old brake fluid increases spongey feeling, and can cause an inconsistent pedal when hot, but I'm not sure I could tell the difference between that and pad fade in the heat of the action. You could try bleeding a little out of the callipers before your next hoon, to see if there's a little improvement. The front discs are already vented, so aftermarket discs won't help a lot. Cooling ducts are faffy to fabricate. A lighter (perhaps two-piece) disc will heat up and cool down faster. A BBK usually comes with larger cooling surface AND bigger brake pads too, since they're multi-piston. On the other hand, the BBK can need more maintenance, as it will typically lack the protection for winter grime. Also, if you defeat the brake heating problem, you might find the next heat issue appears, e.g. oil temp, tyre temp, driver temp... For my money I would get the best pad I can so I don't need exotic spares, and maybe smooth out the driving a bit. Then again... one of the B's in BBK probably stands for Bragging Rights.

I'm not surprised sliding calliper designs are prone to this sort of thing, but I am surprised it's happening already to '86s. I'm glad there are shims front and rear to work with - shimless rear callipers are a right pain.

Toyota's website say they do offer a year on approved used sales. At the minimum you'll have your statutory rights on fitness for purpose, any residual warranty on the vehicle itself up to 5 years, and they'll probably try to sell you a warranty extension.

Milton Keynes Toyota, may they be struck by meteorite or falling space station.

Where do you suppose the energy comes from that makes the post-turbo air charge hot? It's proportionate to the temperature of the air coming into the turbo. Aside from a bit of soak from the impeller itself, it's mainly the compression that increases the temperature - see ideal gas law. The higher the starting temperature the more energy in the resulting compressed air, and the more effort it takes to compress. The intercooler can take 10 degrees or more out of the intake charge, but I don't believe the cooling efficiency increases with temperature as much as the heat of compression does. That's before you take into account the practical effects of a car that heatsoaks at idle and has to drain the engine bay of hot air, instead of just the intake volume. I've lost count of how many times I've seen people complaining about wobbly idles and erratic fuelling from replacing their intakes and filter boxes. Good air supply matters! At least to a point. NA ram-scoops have a tiny effect, and most cold air induction kits trade weather resilience for marginal improvements over OEM offerings.

Replacement batteries are CR1632, they're not commonly for sale but you can get them from eBay and of course Toyota. Easy to fit. When the fob battery is low, a particular symbol flashes in the centre of the dashboard, and it beeps at you when you turn the car off. The alarm behaves correctly when the emergency key is used, it lacks the electrics to turn the alarm off, annoying as that is.

Are they even leather? Looks synthetic to me, or at least very very very thin. Seat bolsters and coupe bodies are not a good mix with tight parking.

There's nothing particularly exotic about the car, it's as well made as any other Subaru (both in a positive and negative sense). They're not rusting away yet, most engine failures are in cars that have been meddled with. It'll suffer in the very long term from being a low volume car w.r.t. the availability of cheap spares and donor cars, tuner support etc particularly if you get a special edition, but we're some years away from that. Nothing about it says it'll punish your wallet like owning an old Audi RS or BMW M-car.

Presumably what you really need is a cat designed for a 300bhp car that can be attached at the right exhaust length. I suspect they will all be a bit big, but there are tonnes of 300+ bhp cars that are fully road legal and euro emissions compliant. Maybe the cats fitted to some of the turbo boxer Subarus? I've hardly seen any aftermarket cats that were both effective and durable, barring OEM-equivalent quality spares that won't allow more flow.

FYI the OEM tweeters (at least in UK cars) are pretty pants, and the OEM woofers feel like they've been built with the damp cardboard. The rear mids are so hilariously bad that their best use is plugging the speaker hole in the rear quarter trim. The only way is up!

FYI this is pretty rough on tyres, particularly the shoulder of the right front. The surface is quite slippery and uneven. Don't do it with a set of pristine PS4s! On the other hand, the '86 pirouettes beautifully and there's plenty of space to go wrong in.

I'm not sure about running three different size speakers off a single amp channel without some kind of crossover or DSP. The mids and tweeters are going to overlap frequency responses big time. Might be hard to make them behave well together. The head unit has four channels out, but the second two are running to the rear "speakers" via whatever route. If you cannibalise those, you end up with fader controls impacting mid versus high+low which is interesting if not useful.