nerdstrike

Well that's a tragedy

I cannot speak for the '86 Scorpion item, but I bought a catback from them for my RX8 some years ago (via Larkspeed I think). It was well made, and they manufactured the "prodrive" exhausts for a particular special edition of that car. Resonators do quiet the total volume, but their job is to damp specific frequencies. Going unresonated opens you up to potential drone at certain RPMs. This item has fairly stout looking mufflers so it might be ok unresonated.

Slowing your warm-up has implications for lubrication in short hops and for driving moisture out of the oil. It also means you ought to be taking it easy for longer until you're at thrash temperature. This one impacted me most in a car with oil coolers - it took ages to get to the fun part of the drive. To my mind it makes more sense to keep the track sessions shorter and change the oil if it gets a real cooking, but it really depends on how much track time you put in. A blankable cooler is a nice compromise provided you don't forget about it.

The standard car is tuned for high octane fuel, and I saw a log here of knock events that showed that higher RON should result in fewer timing back-offs. In general, boost more than compensates for any drop in compression ratio. I would suggest that while going full 99 RON fuel and tuning to the max will give peak performance, a slightly less aggressive tune could allow you to run 97+ for greater versatility. You might lose out on say 10 Nm of torque, or a bit of peak output but being able to fill up more easily could improve your daily experience. If you're building an engine, I'm sure you can dictate your objectives to a tuner. Some of the popular tuning packages set you up with a set of 4 maps anyway so you can have a bad fuel map for that trip to Anglesey. On several holidays I found myself forced to fuel up with 95 and I would have been mortified if I'd been running boost.

Dashcommand is more like £8 for Apple stuff. Check if you can program in PIDs before spending money though.

Then you'll be wanting an automatic gearbox and a truck engine. Not especially sporty, but you can spin the tyres right off! I expect you could get a boxer diesel in the engine bay if you really wanted... however I agree that low torque performance engines can be hard work, and not especially good at daily use, having owned a series of high revving engines. On the original topic @Jay Bamrah it is disproportionately expensive to tune for NA peak power without increasing cylinder capacity. The "famous" NA engines all have ambitious red lines, complex adjusting intakes, fully variable valve timing and really strong engineering around the camshafts. That stuff doesn't come cheap! If you soak in some of the press around engines like the Porsche block in the 911R, Gordon Murray's Cosworth unit, the Ferrari 458 V8, Honda's F20C, Mazda's Renesis you really get a sense of how hard it is to get more power when you can't make the flame front any faster. Anyone (sort of) can add boost pressure and fuel, but it takes bespoke engineering to raise the redline usefully and not completely ruin the engine for regular use. The FA20 is a pretty good but not exceptional NA engine at just under 100 bhp/L, but it's a much easier normal drive and more efficient than the F20C that just about squeaks 120 bhp/L.

My lovely car is gone, but the winter wheels remain. All four rims are in good-ish condition with some surface marks but nothing drastic. See pictures for details. The tyres on the rims are as follows: Goodyear ultragrip performance 91V: 8, 9, 8 mm Goodyear ultragrip performance 91V: 8, 9, 8 mm Dunlop Wintersport 5 91V: 6, 6, 6 mm Dunlop Wintersport 5 91V: 6, 6, 6 mm No centre caps. £300 ono, buyer collects, or drop off near Cambridge if you really need it.

Sorry, I moved them on via ebay at the weekend.

I averaged a windscreen every 20k miles. I suspect the low front and angle of windscreen are particularly good at taking big stone hits.

A few years back, iOS devices couldn't use bluetooth to connect to OBD devices. They had to have Wifi-based communication, so the ecosystem is a bit different. Don't know if that's still true? Check your dongle is suitable! Lots of issues with the apps often stem from the reader being a cheap knock-off. Apart from that you could try dashcommand, or perhaps forscan.

You'll be able to see the revs adjusting at warm idle in combination with that click if it's the aircon as it loads and unloads the accessory belt. It sounds like aircon, as (almost) everything else under the bonnet is tied directly to engine RPMs.

I put modest to good odds that they would engineer some extra strength into the FA24 because the engine has more torque. You've got to have a margin or it's very expensive for the manufacturer when their engines break too quickly. Don't expect too much margin though! It's the same Subaru engineers optimising for cost and weight.

With great sadness I must succumb to the need for a dog-wagon. My rather large dog does not want to go in the boot for some reason. Hopefully my car can go on to be someone else's clean slate project. Therefore I present my much loved car for sale: Red paint. The best colour surely. 64k miles of commuter duty, kept in good running condition during lockdown. Essentially stock, with a bit of sound deadening added. Toyota Touch and Go head unit with Focal speakers. Both keys for keyless entry. On Primacy HP indestructible tyres Optionally with a set of winter wheels and tyres to provide safe winter fun too. Snow socks Toyota service history Asking for £11000. Get in touch!

Sold to Nat, good luck with it kid!

Sorry Church, but hahahahaha! You're absolutely right of course, but we're potentially talking about main dealer servicing here.

Good on you for finding the issue. This is a common failure mode, but it takes years to happen for the first time. If the slide plates and the carrier underneath them are not kept in good order, sticking pads are inevitable. Looks like some rather ugly corrosion on the top end of the squeal shim!

0.4 more liters edition...

Nice to see the impact when nothing has been done downwind of that. 12 whp gain isn't bad going for still catalysed and with a nice 10-20 lbft improvement in the convenient range. In practice, a ~10% increase in torque at 3500 rpm is very much like the car weighing ~100kg less, albeit at the cost of a bit more fuel. Edit: kmh, I knew it!

Excellent documentation and solutions. Top quality rattle-hunting. Now if only I could deal with a seemingly loose passenger seat position lever that makes a boing noise over certain bumps! I've dealt with the clicky parcel shelf and added some damping for road noise and don't have many rattles, but my two enemies are the boingy seat lever and driver seatbelt clasp that creaks like crazy in summer when I'm lightly dressed.

You're a giant amongst car owners!

Quite apart from the great fuel debate, I wonder if the learned trims have an impact on a fresh tank of fuel from a different provider. I wonder if we only observe differences between the brand we've used consistently and others, irrespective of which it is. A few hours of varied driving ought to be enough to correct the trims. There's also the fact that our experience between tanks is from week+ old fuel to fresh, and human perception is notoriously unreliable when the comparison is not immediate. It's a tricky business! All the more so for you peeps with the custom tunes.

If you've got a deep enough clamp to hold it in place while it cures, I'd recommend an epoxy instead. Superglue is pretty weak on everything but fingers and plastic. The adhesive pad is optimistic at best :/ unless its a high temp adhesive.

Servicing oafs bend mine roughly once a year. Just enough to make the locking fail and the mystery beep to sound. Next you'll find you can buy a Litchfield-branded up-rated bracket.

I reckon that would depend on condition. A total doofus (or poorly adjusted item) can ruin a clutch in 30k miles, so it's not a normal item to buy used when the cost of fitting (or several hours plus tools) gets quite close to the price of the item. I wouldn't expect a great deal. One last hurrah at Santa Pod?

No, I read the Esso website.