Rich

I don't like armrests either, just get in the way.

Not a bad idea, a new set from Toyota is around £1800+VAT after all.

Absolute steal at that price...

The boost lag difference between Harrop and Cosworth is effectively zero. Where the air enters doesn't matter to boost response - all that matters is the throttle body to intake valve distance, which should be about the same from what I can see. @Ade will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the Cosworth relocates the throttle body to the rear of the supercharger so it's directly attached to the charger intake.

They're not that sensitive anyway. I smashed my front bumper and the airbags didn't go off.

Would normally be interested, but I'm away in Scotland that weekend so sadly not.

You'll probably be running -2.5 degrees of camber at the rear or fairly close to that, so you'll want a fair bit of front camber to match that. Zero toe all round I'd suggest as Church says.

Let me borrow your car (and a cliff) and I'll demonstrate out of gear acceleration. I meant as opposed to through the gears.

I assume you mean the 4.67? As MFactory don't do a 4.57. Final drives are a bit of a different change to straight up power increases. It'll improve in gear acceleration, but overall performance may not be that much higher (depending on speed and gear choice). For road driving I'd say it can be worth it (if you can put up with higher revs above ~50 mph).

Mine feels good at 172 bhp/ton, but I could use a bit more sometimes. Partly it's delivery too - the standard car feels slower than it is because of the lumpy torque.

Eh? 290 crank is 232 bhp/ton. You need 301 BHP to hit 241 bhp/ton. I'd say 200 ish is about as much as you need on the road.

@Neal what's your suspension setup? It looked pretty close to grounding a few times on some of those roads, I'm sure I saw a puff of dust once in fact!

If it's not too late, put me down for a fry up tomorrow.

Feeling better, I'll try to make it.

Not too impressed with Flux myself - called about a renewal quote, was told that they would call back. No call back. Business lost chaps.

I ran Goodyears on my previous car, they're some of the quietest tyres I've ever used. If noise is a concern I think you'll find them hard to beat.

I skipped all of last season, decided to have a watch of this. Enjoyed it - the run across Kazakhstan was actually entertaining, and the GT86 provides a bit more on track spectacle than previous cars (lets face it, watching a Lacetti understeer round a track isn't that fun).

Going to have to count me out. Been unwell this week, having a quiet weekend.

My V105s are on around 16K miles and 3 track days. Last check showed 3 mm front, 4 mm rear (they have been rotated). That's pretty good wear in my book.

Yes, just the tyre left.

Wheel 1, free due to damage to rim from hitting a rock: Wheel 2, £15, some kerbing: Wheel 3, £20, light stone chips: Wheel 4, £20, light stone chips: Set of OEM wheel nuts plus locking key, £10: Alternatively, £50 takes all the above (4 wheels + nuts). Willing to ship, buyer pays shipping costs (looking at around £30 for the lot for shipping). One Hankook Ventus tyre, 215/45/17, covered maybe 500 miles or so, pretty much as new, £40: All items located in Northwich, Cheshire.

I'm tempted to try PS4s when I next need tyres, but they're a fair premium over the V105S and I've had very good life out of my Yokos, so I doubt the Michelins will do better there.

Wheels and locking nuts now sold!

FWIW black circles is cheaper - £68.95 for a V105S and PS4 are £91.20. About the same difference.

Here's your target, 8:26 lap in an (almost) stock GT86: