Rich

Incidentally is yours bolted in at all, or just held in place by the oil/water lines?

Should be fairly close to coolant temperature, which is around 90C with the stock thermostat.

@nerdstrike All true, however it's not quite as straightforward as needing a percentage more cooling. Summer oil temps are actually not much above winter oil temps from my observations. Which makes sense when you consider that most of the oil cooling effect at present is dumping heat into the block which is removed by the coolant. My coolant temp is the same year round since the radiator is adequate to maintain it and thermostatically controlled. The numbers above are really just to get an idea of target temperatures for oil in normal driving. It seems like around 95C is a good temp to shoot for.

I did some logging on the way home today. Mostly B roads with a little dual carriageway. Oil temps settled at mid-90s once it was up to temperature. 96C on the dual carriageway at around 70 was the maximum recorded. Temperatures stayed over 90C even when pottering around town after coming off the bypass.

@Ade Do you do anything about draining oil from the cooler during oil changes?

Mine hadn't.

I bought a set of ten modules in a strip, I have 6 in the boot leaving two for each footwell. Not got round to fitting the footwell lights yet.

I bought a set of LED strips off ebay for my boot, it's ridiculously bright now, I'll have to post a pic.

Yes, that's the issue. I want to avoid over-cooling my oil when driving normally. Hence thinking an oil-to-water cooler would be good for me since I have the standard coolant stat, so my water temps are close to 95C most of the time.

More on pressure drops, Mocal have a graph for their oil to air coolers: That suggests a 10 psi drop across a 19 row is well above 60l/min which seems very high! Maybe includes fittings though, which would affect things. It seems the laminova coolers are somewhat more restrictive than an oil to air cooler would be, though the shorter lines will help offset that somewhat.

Ade's number from the other forum, for reference (hope you don't mind me quoting these @Ade): I did some logs while cruising on the motorway today. Oil temp is a bit low to be honest. The 99C mocal thermostat still flows about 10% so the radiator is still influencing oil temps on the motorway. A quick hoon gets it into the 90's°C so it's a compromise i'll have to make for the sake of keeping temps down on the track. I would have expected Oil temps to be about 95°C without the oil cooler. Speed Oil Temp Coolant Temp Ambient Temp Intake Temp (post charger) Fuel Eco 60MPH 79-80°C 75-76°C 14°C 19-20°C 56MPG 75MPH 80°C 75-76°C 14°C 18-19°C 46MPH He is running the low temp coolant stat which would reduce things, but that still seems low. I'll try to get some logging in my car.

Also, I found this graph of performance: I don't know what sort of flow our oil system gives, but pressure drop is 0.3 bar (4.35 psi) and 0.6 bar (8.7 psi) for the medium and small cores at 20 l/min, which compares well with a 10 psi drop across a 19 row cooler.

I'm aware of that, but as mentioned, Ade had a 99C thermostat on his plate and was still seeing oil temps around 80C while cruising on the motorway. That's a little low for my liking on a daily. I now you think oil to air is the better choice, and for a track it does give better heat rejection, but other considerations are also factors. For instance, aside from better daily temps, a water to air cooler is a much more robust solution; it's much less likely to pick up a pinhole leak from road debris or be damaged in a front end collision. @Ade Am I right in thinking you fitted yours without draining the oil? Also did you use the eye-wateringly expensive Toyota coolant to refill?

An extra consideration for the mocal water-oil coolers is that the smaller unit has just over twice the oil pressure drop of the medium sized unit. So it's probably worth going for the medium unit regardless of the state of tune of the engine.

Mine started to delaminate similar to yours. I had it replaced under warranty by RRG last Autumn.

My concern with an oil to air cooler is getting the oil warm enough in daily driving. Ade had problems with his not really warming up unless he ragged it with a 99C takeoff plate. A water to oil setup eliminates that issue. I'm thinking smaller size mocal will be a good bet for my car, that said it's not a huge price difference with the medium one either.

I'm very tempted by a setup like Ade's. I'm wondering if the Forester oil cooler would be sufficient for an NA engine though. It looks like it would cost around £200 for the parts do that's a decent saving.

I am looking at the TD oil cooler kit (yes, I'm lazy). Not sure what the thermostat is on that. @Mike@TD.co.uk would know, but they also sell an 80C thermostat so I'd assume it's that. I am also considering fitting a water-to-oil cooler like Ade has. That avoids the need for a thermostat all together and warms the oil up quickly in normal driving.

Blackburn is apparently almost snow free, or so a friend there tells me. You should have some time to get used to the car before having to worry.

I'm in the northwest and the snow is pretty minimal up here. You shouldn't have a problem - I was able to drive to work without issues, it's more wet roads than full on snow conditions.

I was sitting at around 130C for most of that day. I think aftermarket manifolds dump a fair bit more heat into the engine bay. I'm not doing much in terms of mods with my car this year, but I think an oil cooler may be on the cards for engine longevity if nothing else.

Might not be that great for track as it'll be over noise limit on most I suspect...

One of the big draws (other than sound) is that they improve response. When you open the throttle in a STB engine, the air has to fill the intake plenum and flow down the runners before power increases. With ITBs it only has to flow down the (short) runners, so power is delivered more quickly. Also the throttle being close to the injectors can improve air/fuel mixing resulting is a better burn and more power. Add in all the above and they are a nice but expensive upgrade.

My rear camber was -1°65' left and -2°35' right when lowered 20mm. So you'll probably get 2-3 degrees of camber from lowering on stock arms. I've been considering LCAs, to even things out and reduce rear camber a little. The SPC ones seem hard to beat at the price.

It's much less intrusive. I'll try to remember to take a picture of mine.