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Everything posted by Rich
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You get it on strictly direct injected engines because combustion gases and oil (mostly from the crankcase breather) condense on the intake valve stems and leave deposits. Better fuels don't really help as the fuel never touches the valve stems. There's also not really a good way to stop it happening by driving differently or maintenance either, you just have to suck it up. The traditional solution, which the FA20 uses, is port injection as the fuel then washes down the valve stems as it in sucked into the engine.
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Pretty much what I do. The water warms the screen so it doesn't mist so easily.
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Cracks don't come from nowhere, if your glass is weakened enough to crack from thermal shock, it's weak enough to crack anyway pretty soon. Also in the UK we don't get cold enough temps for water to refreeze luckily, but I can see that being a problem in harsher climes.
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I use tepid water, seems to work. Unlikely to crack the glass as if the glass was that close to cracking you'd shatter it going over a bump in the road. I wouldn't recommend anything too hot though.
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Recall issued on cars to have valve springs replaced 2012-2013
Rich replied to Lauren's topic in Mechanical
RRP on a set of plugs is over £100 I think, so not "cheap", but not £600 either. -
Mine's the same, I just accept that doing motorway miles means I'm going to have a sandblasted windscreen.
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Or tuning developments in Warrington. Plenty of options round here.
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I think you dodged a bullet. Fiat 500 is my worst drive. It was the 1.2 which can't go up hills. Power was meagre as expected, but on top of that, the stop/start was just moronic, it would cut power when you didn't want to and then refuse to restart. I ended up sat at green traffic lights pumping the clutch trying to wake it up a few times. Understeer was epic, in a way that no other car I've driven is, way worse than similar small cars. If you braked at more than about 0.2g the indicators flashed as it though you were going to crash. Also the driving position was awkward, and it lacked reach adjust on the steering wheel so I could never get properly comfy. Still £20 a day, so what can you do?
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How much fuel are you carrying?! 75 kg of petrol is 100 litres, which is about double what a GT86 will carry without jerry cans.
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It's ignition.
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I used this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00FEHEZ4G
- 15 replies
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- tuning developments
- uel
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(and 2 more)
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I did mine DIY and put a little heatshield on that resonator box to avoid issues. If it melts it will really break the air/fuel mixture. Pic here:
- 15 replies
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- tuning developments
- uel
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(and 2 more)
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The only issue would be if the wheels have very narrow holes above the seats - you might not get a socket in on the standard nuts, so you'd need "tuner nuts" which have an internal spline drive.
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Long steel tube (think piece of scaffold) over a socket handle works for me.
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Whichever clown shop fitted them clearly went for the cheapest option without checking it was actually correct.
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Do you have a service manuals? They have full specs and wiring diagrams for everything, so you should be able to trace the O2 sensor wiring schematic. Available here if not: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8374
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Mine's 5 years old and has done a little over 60K miles. From your first list I've had rust on the quarter lights (warranty replaced) but not the other issues. From your second list I've had a new fuel pump under warranty (fitted before I bought the car) and no other issues. It's not been an unreliable car at all, barely any time in the garage other than routine servicing and accident damage. The lack of a turbo and other highly stressed parts really helps I think.
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Mechanical switch?! My old car would detect from the GPS and automatically swap over (or so it said, I never tried it).
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It might be the auto-blip or flat foot shifting getting confused. If it's fine in map 1 then that seems likely.
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I have a single Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2 tyre for sale, has done approximately 500 miles, has been stored out of sunlight since it came off the car a little over a year ago. Located in Manchester, £50.
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I am selling my 1320 performance UEL manifold. It needs new flex pipe welding in (one is in very poor condition and blowing), but other than that the pipework is in good condition. It's around 2 years old. Located in Manchester, collection preferred, or delivery at your expense. £150.
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Yes I can ship to Sweden. I'll try to get an estimate of shipping if you're interested.
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Honestly? I think you'll have to give it another year. Have you tried taking the named drivers off?
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I'm also with Admiral, no one else gets close.