Rich

Another thumbs up for Fensport from me, I dropped in Tuesday to get my passenger side headlight sorted. They had it fixed within an hour.

Think you're even beating me there...

I've just swapped my non-res to resonated as it was too loud, especially at around 60 mph in 6th. That said I have a decat manifold which ups the noise a fair bit.

At least 0800 calls are free from mobiles now!

What do you have for longitudinal G settings, @Lauren?

Update time! With good news too. I finally got my EDFC fully installed and working; I've been doing it in stages over the past few weeks. One slight setback early on was snapping a bolt in the engine bay, but I managed to drill it out and replace it. Other than that it was quite straight forward, it just takes a while as there's a lot of cable routing to do. Everything is powered off the 12V socket in the centre console, so it comes on with the ignition. On to some pics, I only have a few as I kept forgetting to take my camera with me... Rear driver unit, cunningly stashed behind the toolkit... Rear motor, a bit of carpet cutting was required, but they look pretty neat all the same. Front driver unit (behind battery) and motor. The bolt I snapped is the shiny looking one just above the strut tower (with the earth strap). Horrible phone pic of wiring installation. All the interior wiring runs through the centre console and through the passenger footwell. The interior signal converter and power filter are mounted behind the passenger side knee pad. The GPS unit is mounted under the nearside speaker, with the cable dropped down the back/side of the glove box. Everything back together, control unit looking nicely fitted, no crazy wires or such. I'm rather pleased with it, it was worth taking the time with I think. Initial impressions are it's very impressive. I have it set to 48 (out of 64) at rest, then stiffening to 32 by 65 mph and adding up to 24 clicks of stiffness based on G forces. It's comfortably soft when slow, but nicely firm when you accelerate and corner.

Welcome to America (and we're heading the same way). There's sadly little legal come back if they don't want to play ball, especially as you're abroad. Always a risk when buying from foreign companies. I'd be inclined to take the $250 and write it off as a bad bet.

I'm interested. 1. The Minion 2. Deacon 3. Dan J 4. Rich

I'm still using my MX510 at work, it's an excellent mouse. I have a Logitech G9 at home, it's the only thing I've found that's better so far.

Anyone else spot that the final drive is now 4.3:1? Interesting change! EDIT: A closer inspection shows that Europe isn't getting that change.

Depends what sort of money you're willing to spend and what appearance you want. A TE37 in 18x8.5 for instance is around 8kg, which is nice and light, but you're looking at well over 2 grand for a set new...

Progress! I was in at Tuning Developments yesterday to get my Flex As fitted. Unsurprisingly the drop links were again proving awkward, ended up with a rounded off bolt on one. So I now have a set of BC adjustable links. Don't have the EDFC on yet, so I'm just running a static setup, and with the rain yesterday not been able to give it a proper run. That said, initial feeling is good, it rides well and still corners nicely. Looking better now it's a bit lower (I went for a 20 mm drop), though the wheels are completely lost in the arches. No pictures yet as the weather has been too grim.

Would like to do this, but that weekend clashes with TSS.

I was able to get plenty of oversteer on mine yesterday on a dry track, not a problem at all.

That's part of it, also the EU test is done in specific gears for manuals, whereas autos are just stuck in drive, which favours long gearing on auto boxes.

Happy with my Yokohamas.

I like the look of the Milltek, fits into the rear valence nicely. The weld breaks should be sorted with the addition of an extra flex joint in the midpipe also.

Attempted to fit my Flex As today, sad to say they beat me. Or more specifically, the stock drop links beat me. The bolts are well and truly seized, and not having replacements I was cautious about going too hard on them in case they snapped. Suspension has been put off until the 19th. On the upside, while I had the car up and the wheels off, I took the opportunity to swap in my Cosworth steetmaster brake pads (thanks @DanJ).

Hard to compare when the manifold is on different engines really. My car has a (non-TD) UEL and made 216 bhp on their dyno for instance. I think there's enough variability in the engines that 7 bhp could be almost anything.

I have a heatshield of sorts on mine; it's more of a heat blanket than a full wrap though. In theory it allows the exhaust to expand and vent heat without trapping it like a full wrap does, while still shielding the sump and and other engine components.

I'm going to bail, sorry Keith, going to use the day to get my coilovers fitted instead.

I found the same. With just the manifold on it was barely louder than stock, you'd really struggle to tell other than the UEL sound. Once I put a catback on, it got loud.

This is the 1320 header: http://1320performancestore.com/1320%20frs%20brz%20header

I'm free on the Saturday, could be good to get a few of us down there.

Think you're thinking of the ACE header? There is only one 1320 header. As for gaskets, Ebay seems as good a place as any, or tuning developments will do them. Or any Toyota or Subaru dealer should be able to get them I think.