Rich

Cleaned them up last weekend, filed down the high spots on the slides, proper grease up with ceratec. Most of the powder coating on the tabs fell off at the merest touch of a file, so I think it's better off than on. All good so far, no binding that I can hear. It's nice pulling into the car park at work without it shrieking all the way in. Despite that, still plenty of meat on the pads, barely even half worn I'd say. One groove was completely clogged, oddly on the quiet side.

For future reference, about £76+VAT from Toyota for a new one. You got a good deal there.

You could, but the sides are a bit narrow to get decent adhesion. It does fog in the winter a bit, I just leave it fogged.

Mine is well stuck on again now. I used 3M VHB tape, the transparent stuff, it's stupidly sticky. I also added an extra piece of tape at the front of the brake light to reduce the twisting load on the rear tape.

Mine has fallen off this week, going to try sticking it back on with new 3M tape. Someone over in ft86 club made a metal bracket that bolts into the ceiling which sounds like a good plan.

Would normally be up for this, but I'm graduating that day.

I think I should clean my rear pads up - they bind a bit when hot, sounds like they just need a bit of filing and greasing.

No that was with stock pads. I currently have an intermittent squeak as my calipers bind a little when hot, really need to get them off and cleaned.

Mine used to quiet down after a track day, but it didn't last.

I've found Hawk HPS to be quiet, I think rear are the more important pads from a squealing perspective.

I have passed two MOTs with just the front pipe cat.

I would really like to be able to use the brokers via email. Having long phone calls is awkward for me compared to just tapping my details into an email and having them come back with quotes. I'm not sure why this is so difficult to arrange.

How much does it stick out? I'm handy with a soldering iron so adapting it would be no bother...

I have my EDFC GPS antenna on top of the glove box (under the dash), works fine there.

Easy to get to the fork pivot, not easy to actually get some grease into the mechanism without removing the pedal. I had a go with a bit of silicone grease and it made no difference.

Mine's hada squeaky fork for ages, not worth worrying about really.

I've had one puncture and the tyre kit was useless (2" sidewall tear), luckily it was during the day so I was recovered to a local garage and on my way in a couple of hours. Since then I carry a space saver.

Racist.

I used to have a dual clutch automatic. In a dual clutch you shouldn't lift off, just keep your foot in or you'll destabilise the car. The gear change is so fast you won't be able to react quickly enough anyway (8 ms is typical for a predicted shift). In mine at least the engine management would also upshift at the redline, so if you just hoofed it in manual mode it would give you a pretty good launch even if you didn't do anything. Also when downshifting multiple gears it's worth your while just clicking through them as fast as possible so the gearbox knows what you want and doesn't try to select an intermediate gear unnecessarily. Also be aware that if you're shifting more than one gear, or catch the prediction out the shift will take around half a second, so it is possible to outwit it sometimes.

Had mine done at TD in warrington. £475 inc VAT. A fair saving on dealer prices, and TD have plenty of GT86 experience.

We had a couple of centimetres here in south Manchester, nothing that really affected travel, looks pretty though. It's quite late in the season for snow here.

On my original windscreen in this car, had my old car go within months of collecting it. Just luck.

Donington is an excellent track, it's the best track in the country I've driven (though I've not driven Oulton). The Craner Curves are something else. There's decent run off on many corners, but it is not a track you can just fly off with nothing to hit in all cases. Also don't underestimate how far the car will go on grass at speed.

The advantage of coilovers is the damper will be better matched to the spring rate, so they're usually more comfortable - lowering springs with OEM dampers tend to be underdamped which can make them bouncy or wallowy at speed.

He would need to factor in fitting cost though, unless going DIY. EDFC is an expensive job if a garage does it.