Rich

Why? It's a dull car made by accountants for accountants.

Worth checking blackcircles too, their prices are often better than Camskill / tyre leader.

I run PFC at the front and Hawk HPS at the back. Seem a good match (nothing untoward on track) and they're well priced. I'm not a fan of the Cosworth pads as they are made of cheese (14k miles and a track day or two wore out a rear set). EBC yellows don't seem a great match in terms of Mu or temps for the PFCs.

The depreciation on these is great. I had an Audi S3 before this which lost 33% of it's value in 18 months. Talk about taking a bath on a car.

You can do that online: https://www.paypal.com/uk/webapps/mpp/first-dispute

I got mine fixed by RRG. No issues since.

The manufacturer's warranty covers anything except wear and tear on the car, including lights and the battery. If your car is less than 5 years old it is covered, regardless of who sold it you and what they said. According the the government website, your car is a May 2013 registration, so it should be covered under Toyota warranty.

33 average on Tesco Momentum. Mostly motorway and urban but I end up in stop start traffic a fair bit.

Unless you're on some sort of third party warranty it should be covered under the Toyota standard warranty.

Anyone else with the OEM nav unit find it's a bit temperamental about getting a correct GPS fix? Mine seem to get an odd offset fix where it thinks I'm 20+ miles away. I'd assume it just couldn't find sats but the fix moves at the correct speed and seems to otherwise behave as normal, apart from being in the wrong place. Sometimes it fixes itself after a while, sometimes it doesn't. It's been getting worse recently, I'm not sure if it's the cold, or just age.

Indeed, I'm reticent to spend a good chunk of cash on the satnav, given it doesn't have decent traffic.

Is that a free update, or the £100+ one?

A replacement gasket is cheaper than new lights. Best to just dry it out and get it correctly sealed (as above), or get Toyota to do it if in warranty.

I don't think Mike's ever clocked it - it would need to be a drive-by reading as the screamer is inactive unless you've got a fair amount of exhaust flow.

Orange is the best colour, obviously. Best exhaust is a combination of how loud and how much you want to spend really. The Invidia Q300 (Gemini seems to be their 350Z version) is quiet and high quality, but not cheap.

It's used with the waste gate to manage turbo speed - when you have more exhaust flow than is required to spin the turbo for the desired level of boost, the waste gate opens bypassing some of the flow. There are two options then, either dump it out a short pipe to the engine bay (screamer pipe), or loop a pipe around the turbo and have it rejoin the exhaust flow downstream (what OEMs use). Screamer pipes are loud needless to say, and less environmentally friendly since they miss the cat (hence OEMs not using them), but lower back pressure (since it's just a piece of straight pipe).

They look good though, from a functional POV. Aren't there smaller washer tanks available to get round that issue? There's this one in fact: http://www.ptuning.com/subdir/itemdetail.cfm?PartNo=PTP-ENG-90075&MakeCode=scion&ModelCode=fr-s&ModelYear=2013-2016 All&ModelDesc=FRS

Hmm, I'd be tempted, but my Milltek seems unexpectedly crack resistant, and I don't really want to bin it until it dies.

Mine cost £12, though half of that was shipping! Cable tied on in a matter of minutes. Can't say I've noticed a huge improvement, but worth it for the price.

On the upside, Warrington is not far from Liverpool, so it's only a short drive from the ferry.

@Mike had some issues with oil on his diff casing, not sure if it was an actual leak in the end. That's the only one I'm aware of.

It's these if you can't find any: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEGO-50861-50862-Light-Grey-Motor-Bike-Cycle-Wheel-Tyre-2-Wheels-Tyres/252134332164 £2 for a pair!

Head unit can be fixed with a couple of Lego motorbike tyres off eBay. I had an S3 and I agree with you, it isn't anything like as good.

Yeah, I meant what Mike said - that it doesn't matter if it's on the inside or not. As for high beltline, that's often a crash safety "feature" as it's easier to reinforce a door than a window.

Yes, it's the lack of vision through it that's the MOT fail, not that the wipers touch it.