Rich196

Not had an issue tracking with a super charger, pre or post valve spring recall. experienced dealer is a must!

damm that core looks pretty rotten for its age! I would speak to some re-coreing specialist and see if they can repair it for you.

Have you got any pictures of it? you must be able to have it re-cored or a new one made for less! Thats mad!

No need for a reason just stick up a picture you like of your twin! I shall start!

so have you fitted them? If so how?

No your wheels at Et35 will sit 5mm further in than ET30 wheels. The wheels would be ET25 to stick out further.

I am on coilovers, not sure how low I am running but not that low. No drop links or LCA required. I have seen some talks of people going up to a 255/35/18 on a 9.5 et35, but I think you'll need to be running over 2 degrees of negative camber, that will require top mounts on the front and LCA's on the rear.

9J et38 will be about right running a 245/35/18 tyre. This is my XXR 18x8.75j et35, running a 245/35/18 MP4 tyre. I run a fair bit of camber so its not as flush a look as it could be, but it gives you an idea to go from. DSC_0057 by Richard Beale, on Flickr

Electronic sound is definitely the throttle body. This hiss, I think mine does this, not sure what it is, whether its the AC, or the vacuum system draining.

I think this is exacerbated by the charger bypass valve on a charged setup but I do notice the same!

@Jay Bamrah In response to your other post I have the reyland 330mm kit on the front, OEM on the back except for Carbotec XP10 pads. Regarding the difference between AP and Reyland, as mentioned above it was curved vanes, but now Reyland have curved vanes. After a bit of discussion with @will300 we have come to the conclusion that the AP's last a little longer, but on the flip side I do use a very aggressive pad, so its hard to quantify.

Tested the fitment of the new wheels, and they clear the brakes! 😍 20211224_120209 by Richard Beale, on Flickr 20211224_110755 by Richard Beale, on Flickr 20211224_121415 by Richard Beale, on Flickr

Can you get a diff riser kit in the UK? Dont think I have seen one!

Can abbey not send you the drawing files for it? I think the manifold has to be machined for it too.

Pedal straight to the floor I would say means boiled fluid. I always use RBF600 on anything I track its just not worth the risk in my opinion. Its probably one of the bigger stops in the UK so fluid and better pads will tided you over. With the charger my experience was DS2500 didn't cut it and they faded after a lap or two. I then when to a carbotec XP10 and they didn't fade except on the ring GP, but that used to have the biggest brake in F1. I also added brake cooling ducts off a GT3. I think they are about £30. 2020-10-12_09-21-03 by Richard Beale, on Flickr

Had a look earlier but cant get the car type to search it just keeps asking me to enter the details, and if I search for something like gram lights, nothing comes up. I assume the site is over loaded if your posting this everywhere.

This just looks so spot on perfect!

Yeh

MP4 So this is a 245/40/18 on a 8.75 ET35 20210313_104808 by Richard Beale, on Flickr 20210313_104759 by Richard Beale, on Flickr This is a 245/35/18 20210313_115453 by Richard Beale, on Flickr 20210313_115500 by Richard Beale, on Flickr

This morning I had fitted 245/35/18 on my 8.75j et35. Kwik fit had a deal on fitted £500. Its an epic tyre. For what its worth a 245/40/18 rubs and looks awful dont ask me how I know.

Out of interest, how many miles on the clutch and how many were boosted? Mine came out at 35k miles at recal, can it had plently of life in it? Are you going for a lightened flywheel too?

No, but let me know how you get on. I have a light weight flywheel waiting to go in, but need to settle on a clutch.

I have no issue with coolant or oil temps, but I want to get more air out the engine back, but I have yet to see data proof of the benefits. I think the bonnet vents will definitely give the air somewhere to go out the back of the rad. I assume your on standalone management and not stock?

So does that mean my numbers are +10 on on yours as your measuring at the main a the top of the block? Would be really interested to see the difference before and after the mod. I would be also interest to know if your monitor IAT, if there it a noticeable difference before and after bonnet vents.

Are you going to take before and after measurements from both oil pressure sensor locations? with and without the new main oil feed to see what actual difference it makes? I run an HSK oil cooler, 5w30 oil, and my oil pressure sensor is in place of the OEM pressure switch. Im cosworth charged to. On the road cruising at 70mph in 6th, with an oil temp of 75C I see 85PSI pressure. On a track day with oil at around 100C I see around 65 PSI at 7k RPM. IIRC