long-gone

Is downpipe heat wrap really necessary?

Yarp. Only two minute under-dash job though.

Wait until you try some decent tyres then. I had Asy2's for a couple of years as they seemed pretty good, especially when new. They wore out very quickly though - 6,000 miles rears, maybe 8-10,000 fronts. Yokohamas have been excellent - enough grip esp. in the wet and are lasting way better.

This has been my experience. Initially I just wanted to lower it a little as I have no intention of tracking at, just occasional 'fast road'. Went for lowering springs and ARBs. Felt great to begin with as much stiffer and more edgy but soon got tired with it - too stiff for daily use. Decided it was the springs at fault so switched back to OEM and it's hardly any better. It's the ARBs and bushes that make it so stiff - I have probably the softest after-market set up; Eibach Anti Roll Bar Kit, but still too harsh for me really. Squeaks like a b*st*rd when it's cold too. Do the research and try as many different setups as you can before spunking out for something you may regret later.

Swap for a supply of this?

Fender garnish is better. Otherwise; meh.

YHM

Check they're UK/EU spec wherever you buy them. I mistakenly bought a set of US spec which are now gathering dust in the loft.

YHM

A set of used here: CLICK.

Get it replaced under warranty.

Gilding the lily.

No, they're very good. They replaced some v expensive bosch blades I wasted £20+ on - they were rubbish. These aren't pretty as they don't have the deflector but they're excellent at keeping the windscreen clear.

20" & 22" of these for me. http://www.wiperblades.co.uk/wbtr-22-retrofit-aero-wiper-blade/

Yokohamas are great - I'm a convert. GY F1 Assymetric 2 are pants.

Are the MIltek any good now? I know when I was looking, end 2012 they were a bit rough and ready with some weld breaks. It shouldn't be important, but they looked bloody awful too. I went for the AVO 2.1./2" cat-back and been pretty happy with it, though it's a little on the loud side for some.

I'm sure it's just an oddity of the official testing system, but aren't the auto's supposed to be better than manual?

I have the AVO catback which I kind of like (photos are my car on the Fensport website). Toying with upgrading the manifold before a re-remap but wary of emissions come MOT time. I know nothing in life is guaranteed but are they typically MOT friendly? Also don't want any more volume; it's loud enough as it is.

Sorry can't help personally - have you had a prang? Not too bad I hope? Welcome.

According to his profile, here: CLICK.

Heh. I'm the opposite - 6'1" and 32" inside leg and my shirts have standard (34") sleeves. Driving position is perfect for me.

Placebo effect is strong. If it costs dollars and the car's not noticeably worse it's money well spent.

Do you lot have short arms or really long legs?

12 x 6 you say?

Do research and think long and hard before shelling out for upgrades and mods. Apart from a conservative map they are pretty good 'all rounders' from the factory. If you like to drive it hard and/or track it some of the more popular options may be for you. A good (expensive) set of coil-overs can be worth their weight in gold - if you're going to use them to full effect. Completely wasted on someone like me though. Note though; catless, even HFC manifolds may cause issue at MOT, cheap lowering springs can make it a bit harsh and crashy, loud exhausts can get tiresome quickly, etc. Nothing wrong with any of them per se, but consider the effect(s) and knock-on side-effects of any change. I've spent money I wish I hadn't. I don't, and have no intention of tracking mine - to me the only no-brainers are panel filter, map and tyres - probably cat-back and wheels too.