surrey86

No, because I wasn't trying to see how much of a problem it was. I was trying to find out what tended to cause it, and if Toyota had fixed it with the wiring loom revision. Just had another 2 coilpacks replaced after Oulton. I'm pretty sure it is a problem, lol. What the cause is up for debate.

70% yeah ;-)

If you fitted coilovers you're going to need one anyway asap! How are you finding the new suspension anyway?

Without wanting to go off-topic, they have made a rhd version now. I was tempted by it, less tempted now you've said the hoses weep though.

Yeah Road wouldn't be ideal, I'd have thought you'd need a fairly safe track with plenty of run off to really test it.

Look nice. Have you made any headway with the traction control? I think Mark said a few months ago you were working on it.

I'm hoping no coilovers are involved or I'm in trouble.

Can't beat a brand new set of Rays though. Lots of leaflets full of Japanese writing you've no hope of understanding, mmmm.

Probably worth going for SRF then, I'm too tight for it.

I've been using RBF600 for the last year or so. As @Ade mentioned for RBF660, the 600 also felt past it's best at 9 months, that's why I bled it before Oulton. It is well specced and cheap though, I don't mind bleeding every 9 months.

I have the GT3 ducts and don't think they do a lot either. The best thing about them was the Porsche shaped Haribos that came in the box.

Bit of Combe action day footage - Actually wouldn't mind going as spectator only, looks like a laugh to watch. Wouldn't take my car on track if you held a gun to my head.

You might want also to bear in mind the 'goodwill' side of things if you have a fault outside the warranty period. Manufacturers are known to often cover part of the cost of a major fault if it develops after the warranty has expired and you have a full dealer service history. With a tuner history you're on your own at that point.

Best of luck with it, hopefully it's the sensor. I had this happen on my wife's old 'bulletproof' Honda Civic, unfortunately for us it was more serious.

That's very concerning, possible some sort of intermittent blockage. You shouldn't need to run a different oil with the oil cooler. How many times has it happened? Did TD fit the cooler? I'd be getting onto them asap.

Did you not use floss with the hairdryer? That's pretty unlucky

Couple questions for those who have experience of coil pack engine management lights showing up on the dash.

I'm trying not to be anecdotal, as to be honest individual reports of "mine is fine after xxx track days", "I drive hard" - aren't very helpful in the grand scheme of figuring out what causes it. A trend is. From reading reports plus my own experience it seems to be more likely to happen when shifting at/near the red line, when there is a lot of heat in the engine bay (i.e. during a track session). If you're shifting at 7k rpm it's less frequent. Once it's happened once during a trackday it will come back a lot easier. There's some concensus from the US contingent that coil packs are near enough a consumable if tracking the car on a regular basis, although they tend to have warmer ambient temperatures which can't help. Some advocate wrapping the outer in gold reflective heat tape to help them last longer. The last time I had one pop up was at the end of a Nordschliefe lap when I decided to give it full beans on the huge Dottinger straight. Hot engine bay, first 7400rpm shift and there you go. Not seen since. Annoyingly I bet it will pop up at Oulton next week, but I can't warranty it as I can't reproduce it on the road. I may put a poll up or something! Edit -

How many track days have you done? As far as I can see 90% of the people who experience problems are trackdayers.

That's what I read. US source though, may be different here. Mine is March 2013 and does like it's coilpacks.

I've been reading into the coilpack issue as I've had some frustration with it. It seems on the 2014 model car they updated the wiring loom and coils themselves to have different wiring connectors, which mostly resolved the issue. It seems it is the connectors that are susceptible to heat. Doesn't help those of us stuck with 2012/2013 model coils though, as I imagine a loom retrofit would not be forthcoming from Toyota.

I had a similar renewal. Nice to get a car insurance company that doesn't wack up the price each time.

My gearbox doesn't have either of these problems. First time 3rd into 2nd is a little slow admittedly and I tend to blip the throttle which helps it in. @infernouk - basically what these posts are telling you is if the car is hard to shift from cold you will have a fight to get it sorted out. If it's bad get them to compare with another car.

Sounds like they've continued using it as a demo car for a bit. Bit annoying but nothing to be overly concerned about as it would have likely been a demo car until now. I'd be most concerned with checking the gearbox is ok when cold. Quite a few people have had really stiff gear changes when starting off without Toyota seemingly being able to resolve it. This shouldn't be normal - I wouldn't expect it.