rob275

Hence straight up as possible.

There aren't any sensors, I also struggle to see the wear on the pads I think it's a case of take them off to see

I'm surprised that I can actually have a 225 tyre on my 9" and it be in spec.

Jay a supplier?

You're meant to have the backrest as straight up as possible unless you don't want a spine left in a crash.

Personally I think you just lose all purpose of the headrest if you turn it around. Doesn't support you properly.

Interesting, but it seems like a 10 year old has written these "clauses" as they bare no substance with nothing to gauge against.... Like you say, they need to be specific with sound levels as there are some cars from production far louder than my car is currently. Ok, perhaps they may be super cars, but the law should be the same for all, if what we are talking about here is noise pollution. With regards to stretch, it's still yet to be proven that it is a safety risk. Obviously I think common sense will prevail with these things. But it's from Norfolk police so go figure Lauren

On behalf of all the directors, we wish you a happy new year and would like to thank each and every one of its members for the support they have given to the club the past year! We have had many highlights and some fantastic gatherings at shows & socials alike from small to large numbers. I think the highlights we can really look back on are BHP Performance Show of which a large turnout of approx 32 cars on stand was achieved means that the club, from a social perspective is something people should really get involved in. At JAE, the big weekender of the year we saw approx 15 cars over the weekend, and to top it off we had won best club stand for the second year running after joining up with IMOC. Something which has proven that inter-club events work wonders and i'm sure a few of you have met some great people from IMOC at JAE. Another highlight, the GPRM Factory Tour of which we have Nigel Charman to thank for organising. I think we ended up with 30+ cars to this and a very packed pub afterwards! Of course we can't be forgetting Adrian Smith who has organised the TSS Alongside Javelin Trackdays which many of you have thoroughly enjoyed in 2014 and we hope we can help promote this to GT86 Owners to get more and more cars in to the GT86 Trophy. Many Thanks to all of the traders which have supported us this year and we look forward to hopefully working with you all in 2015. Lets hope the GT86 Forums grow even further! What's on in 2015 for the GT86 Drivers Club? We have some shows already lined up, and it will probably bare no surprise that we have opted, after discussion to drop BHP Performance Show in favour of Japfest this year. The turnout was great from us last year but in all honesty the organisation was poor, and due to no fault of our own we admit it was stressful for everyone! Car Shows for 2015 so far! JapFest - Saturday 16th May 2015 Japfest 2 - Sunday 16th August 2015 JAE (Japanese Auto Extravaganza) - 10th - 13th September 2015 Trackdays for 2015 so far! We have some plans for trackdays in 2015, though these are not set in stone and will be announced as soon as we get firmed details from the organisers, however we have a few track days for those petrol heads who want to enjoy themselves in a safe environment! Novice Day at Oulton Park - 6th February 2015 Spa Francorchamps - 17th - 18th March 2015 We also plan on attending another Novice day at Brands Hatch later in the year, this will be announced on the forums so keep a close eye on it! Socials for 2015! We understand not everyone in the club is interested in Car Shows and Track days, but that doesn't mean you are any smaller part of the club and although we may not organise socials directly, you will be surprised how many people may be bored on a Sunday and would love a spot of pub lunch! Regardless of where you are in the UK, feel free to put a post up to see if anyone is up for a social. We may arrange some large events throughout the year with a social perspective but local ones are always good too.

Happy new year, mines been fairly shitty but 2015 should be better

I'll leave this here http://www.shell.co.uk/gbr/products-services/on-the-road/shell-fuels/the-new-shell-v-power-lego-collection.html Please do not bring any to the christmas meet however!

Take a look at forgestar wheels, they can be made in pretty much any width and offset for you. Could be what you are after.

Are you looking specifically from a certain market? as in JDM, or are you not particularly fussed?

This is true, though I think it's all fairly similar. It serves its purpose, the main reason for me making the guide I made was because some of the pictures I found weren't particularly clear due to being B&W

You're meant to silicone it, though I admit I haven't done this yet, I dont think its required.

Hi All, After reading through the supplied guide I decided to follow it but I did do a few things differently, I will also go in to a bit more detail for those that are considering the OEM Audio+ kit (which despite a few issues fits very well) I believe that my issues were perhaps due to me not providing as much info as I should have and the fact they were pushing to get the kit to me before Christmas. Once I get my studio mic I will record some good quality audio from the car so that you can get a feel to how crisp it sounds. I will add you can achieve a better install for the money with aftermarket components. However if you want something that fits superbly well in to the factory headunit with a loom already made up, this is probably a kit you should consider... That said, it doesn't sound bad and definitely packs a punch. The Guide Step 1 First off you want to do the following: 1. Unlock both doors 2. Open the boot 3. lift the bonnet up This is because you are going to disconnect the battery, if you don't do this you are sure to blow a few fuses along the way and you will curse yourself when sods law you don't have any spares in your garage So disconnect the wires from the negative terminal, tuck them to the right of the battery so they don't pop back up and re-attach themselves.. Something they will want to do after being on the terminal for so long. Step 2 Next you want to head over to either your driver or passenger seat and remove both the headunit surround and the headunit itself.. To do this get a flathead screwdriver and a thin microfibre clock of some kitchen paper will do also (to prevent any unwanted scratches) If you are a rebel, feel free to do without. The below image shows where to place the flathead screddriver, there will be a small hole on the right side of the surround begin prising it off from here. For reference here is where the clips are situated on the surround Once this is off you will need to remove the four 10mm Hex nuts holding the headunit in place, shown below in the image Disconnect the following cables, you may want to reference this image later when connecting it all back up, though it shouldn't be a major issue! Step 3 Next you will need to remove the drivers side trim pieces at the front (In the majority of aftermarket installs you would be doing this for both sides to prevent alternator whine, this loom will only run up one side) Place your hand roughly where mine is in the image and pull straight up. I wouldn't be too worried about snapping it, it will take some pulling and is fairly flexible. Work along until it is off. Next you will need to remove the trim piece around the bonnet catch, there is one pop rivet and two green panel clips holding this on, Undo the pop rivet shown in the image. Then get your fingers under the panel next to the door seal and push it out and towards the pedals Note: Check both green clips come off of the chassis, if one is left on, remove it with either a clip removal tool or a flathead screwdriver(using a microfiber again) Step 4 Getting there... now on to the rear, we need to remove the seat and the rear trim piece First loosen the door seal around the back trim Next up there is a 10mm hex Nut butting in to an L bracket holding the seat in place, remove this With one hand push down on the back of the seat, with your other hand grab the L bracket and pull up, this will unhinge the seat How there is one pop rivet which was hidden by the seat you will see which is shown below, remove this. Drop the rear seats down, you will see two pop rivets, remove these also. That's all the pop rivets fixing the rear trim in place, unfortunately there are a fair few panel clips The way I removed this panel, on the left side of the panel where the door seal was there will be a gap along this edge, begin pulling here. Pull at the lower locations shown here also Are you still struggling? Lets hope not, if you are, here is an image below for reference of where the clips are situated on the panel... Ok we are going a bit too quick, by now around an hour should have passed if it's your first time removing these pieces, if not they tend to come off a little easier and you can do this in around 30 mins when you get good at it Now go grab yourself a cup of tea and feel please that you got this far hopefully with no broken clips... Step 5 Now we have all the trim pieces out we can start with the small amount of chassis modification that needs to be done There will be two speed nuts, attached to the Subwoofer enclosure, get these off as we need to slip these on to some brackets.. Note: You will end up with two pop rivets left over after the install, this is where they have come from! The first bracket can be found where the bottom pop rivet came out of that was holding the rear trim piece in place, there will be two holes on this and a bend on the bracket. Grab a pair of needle nosed pliers and bend it so that it is relatively straight. Don't worry about scratching it, you won't see it and honestly the speed nut will scratch it anyway.... Attach Speed nut to the bracket Now in the boot there will be a pop rivet directly inside, next to the rubber seal, pop it off, pull back the carpet around the hole and there will be a bracket. Place the speed nut on here It's important to place the correct speed nut on the correct bracket, the one on the allen bolt goes on to the bracket next to the rubber seal... Step 6 Now we need to route the main loom, infact the only loom, and this is where my guide will differ. OEM + say to put the trim back after routing the cable, we won't be doing this until after we have got the wire through the grommet as it's a tight fit and will just waste your time when you realise you don't have enough loom at the bulkhead right? Correct One end of the loom will have 3 multiple pinned connectors.. From memory I believe they were a 6 pin, 10 pin and a 12 pin. This is irrelevant in the grand scheme of things, unless you have a fetish for even numbers on electrical connectors.... We will start with the end with the most connectors rub it behind the seatbelts and in to the boot leaving roughly as much as i have, for those with the normal OEM+ Install you just need to leave enough loom to get behind the enclosure. For those with the Active suspension loom it will split, the Amplifier is mounted on the subwoofer enclosure however the DSP Amplifier will be placed on the left side of the boot (We will get to this later) You will have an earth wire on the subwoofer loom (yellow shrink skin over the crimp terminal). Just beflow the rear quarter window is a gold connector, this is your earth. Undo this 10mm hex nut and place the earth wire on to of the earth wires already there. Now that is done we can run the cable through the cable tunnel, there is a which oblong tube* (Do these even exist ) It has 3 white clips running along it, unclip this and fold it back, the carpet is stapled to it. Now I will apologise here, i'm missing a picture for you, I forgot one (doh)... Within this tunnel there are more clips, undo these and tuck the loom in to this and clip it back up. It will go in from the boot like this And come out in the drivers footwell like this (run it to where I have annotated with red circle) Next up OEM+ say to cable tie the loom to the grey cable shown below, this is located above the pedals. I would honestly leave it loose for now Step 7 This part is probably the trickiest part of the install, they don't go in to enough detail on how to successfully get through the grommet, luckily this one isn't tricky if you know how to do it! Above the pedals to the right will be this grommet (use a torch) there is a nipple on the other side that when cut will make a convenient hole (presumably there for the JBL OEM install) the hole is unfortunately on the top side of the grommet, i've marked roughly where it is below. Now that you know where is is , head out to the bonnet and adjacent to the Master Brake Cylinder you will see the grommet with a convenient nipple on it, cut the tip with a stanley knife, the guide says to cut it all off, just put a slice half way through. This will be fine. This is now the tricky bit, we need to get the power cables through this grommet, there is a 14 Gauge and a 12 Gauge cable so luckily not all that thick. Get a metal rod (which is not too thick and can bend but not too thin so that it bends when forge is on it. Get some electrical wire around 40cm in length each. Slice the elctrical wire and take one wire out of it. Tape this and the metal rod together with electrical tape. Now push the metal rob through the grommet. It should go through easily, if its not, wiggle it until it slides through freely. I can assure you there is already a hole there for it so no need to force it! If you force it you may slice one of the electrical wires already running through it. Once it's through pull it through to the other side. Now remove the metal rod and tape the power cables from the loom to the electrical wire. Go back to the bonnet side and pull it through. (I've probably saved you around an hour of crying trying to get it through Step 8 Now that is all done, you need to route the loom up above the pedals and in to the headunit bay. I honestly can't get pictures of where to route these, but directly to the right if you look in the hole where the headunit came out of you should be able to see the pedals. It's best to get another pair of hands to grab the loom as you feed it up. Once that's done, conenct up the OEM+ loom to the OEM loom as shown below Next plug the OEM+ Loom in to the Headunit and also the other OEM loom connectors which are sitting around (Should be 3 of these) Once done it should look something like this.. Well done, now put the headunit back in! and clip the trim back on! Guide to be continued....

I agree it's hard to get to the nipple, luckily I had a long stanley knife which gave me some extra reach needed to get to it.

I started a guide here on how I installed it http://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/topic/2260-oem-audio-install-active-suspension/ Hopefully if anyone buys it they will find it clearer than their guide which is in B&W and the images are small and fairly unclear.

I see a glacialfire not glacielfire? Add me, rob_2004

No there isn't anything wrong with your brain Lars, as you have just accepted its the way the car is. So many keep going on and on about it though. There are a few things Toyota can do but it will never be smooth. I had my lever replaced to a newer part. As your car is new I would assume it has this? They also adjusted my recerse locking plate and topped up the gearbox oil. These are things you can speak to them about.

All the cars i've been in have this "Issue" just some people are more anal about it than others, 9/10 the issue is the drivers brain! Expecting it to be as smooth as the average car, the reality is it isn't and isn't meant to be.

Congrats, first Gaillo that has an owner as far as the club is concerned! Meets will be kicking off in the new year Hoping to sort some regional meets out for people aswell.

Started the install, it's all gone relatively smoothly, taken about 3 1/2 hours so far but it's now dark so I will finish it off tomorrow morning. I think i'm looking at another hour. I just need to plug the Sub & speakers in pretty much. I've been taking some pictures along the way so will write up how I went about doing it

If you want to call it a problem yes, though as Lauren says, it's the nature of the gearbox. If it's completely stuck and crunching badly then there are remedies that can be done.

Yeah painting it a doddle on these, spray inside

No car things for me