Bfranklyn86

Thanks for that Ade. Those coilovers look delightful but it seems like the cost doesn't quite justify the gains on track that id get on my set up. Looks like the most cost effective way of improving the cornering on track will be grippier tyres followed by camber adjustment mods. If I were to get coilovers though, I'd be looking for monotube like these.

Ah thanks, but an oil cooler is in my medium term plans: I want to see what oil temps I hit on track in summer first. So if you do get the chance to weigh it that would be great, but absolutely no rush!

Thanks for that Lauren. If it's easy to adjust, would you not want the camber back to 0 for road driving for tyre wear purposes? Also, how much does the stiffened ride from the coilovers contribute to cornering speed, or is it mainly the camber adjustment that serves this purpose through extra grip? Ride comfort is quite important for me as it's primarily a daily, so if I could get 90% of the benefit by just doing (easily) adjustable camber mods and better tyres, that would be preferable. On a side note, I was actually able to keep up with a golf R in a 70 ->120 sprint the other day (closed road), which surprised me because I only dyno'd at 240whp

Do you know roughly what the kit weighs? Are we talking less or more than 10kg?

So it seems like it if I go premium coilovers then at the very worst the ride will be as good as stock. Excuse my ignorance, but are these things easy to adjust for a track day? Also, presumably you can't do any camber with them..... it's just ride height and stiffness. backstory: I've got some rude, pious colleagues at work who accuse me of having a cheap Japanese chav car. It's made me angry and I want to spend money so I can destroy them on track. The competition is an f-type jag, a C63 and a new golf GTI. Need the help of the gt86 community here!

I'm glad this thread popped up. I've been considering some chassis mods to try and get quicker in the corners on track. My understanding prior to see this thread was that a good set of coilovers = better handling, smoother ride and better looks (lowered). I.e win win win. This has got me thinking twice.

How much did you spend on the OEM disks?

My 2p: If you really want to be selective then need to be thinking about how you want the power delivered too and a load of other things if you enjoy tracking and and like to get most of your boost at the top end then you should be considering the HKS centrifugal supercharger. Also, would you consider bulking the engine in future and aiming for 500bhp? Then go for turbo. Better fuel economy from the turbo too. Cosworth vs harrop: the cosworth has better cooling capacity, the name and UK built, but the harrop is a slightly larger charger which is also front drive front entry I.e. The most instantaneous boost. Disclaimer: I have a harrop. I have never driven any other FI 86.

Yeh I've heard of some people with FI in the states doing it, with good results. Just wondering if there's anyone in the U.K. apparently it helps smooth out the lower gears really nicely.

Anyone with FI running the longer final drive?

That's a lovely exhaust. Do you know what the pipe diameter is?

I agree with this. I've gotten away with no supporting mods other than the brakes. The car is soooo much better FI than NA. Taking corners really fast is no longer the only source of excitement. If I built the engine, did the exhaust, did the chassis mods......there is no chance it would have the same transformative effect of just going FI in the first place. going back to the original question......... taking everything in to consideration (including value for £££) I would say absolutely ideal power for this car is around 260-270whp. I.E just within what the stock internals can hold.

I've been on track recently with my harrop s/c. It made me much quicker - I was able to (just about) keep up with my mate in a Cayman R. And I run the primacies wheras he is on fat PS4s. Before I supercharged it he used to lap me. (In fairness the BBKs I have also added may have something to do with it too). As for ideal BHP/tonne - ideal for the chassis is probably is quite a lot (maybe 300 like ztox said), but 'ideal' doesn't take in to account when you need to build the engine, do the transmission and the axles. I've also heard it said that, no matter how much tyre you've got, traction above 300whp is very limited. Would love to find out for myself though.

How come you didn't like the TTs? (sorry I wouldn't say no to a new head unit, but not for £600)

I agree with Kevin, based on current experience and the discussion I had with an engineer at AP racing, there is no definitive need to match pads on a stock set up. I run a front BBK and a totally stock rear set up. No issues at all, and the brakes were fantastic at a recent track event.

What was the price estimate for this one, Mark? Does it retain the heat shield?

I had this Harrop kit on track at Castle Combe yesterday and it was great. I had torque app running on my spare android phone for the morning session (until the battery cut out) and recorded a peak oil temp of 116. I'm ashamed to say I barely looked at the IATs.....had a cursory glance as I was coming in to the pit lane from a long session and it was reading low40s (9 degree ambient). Next time I'll try to do some loging rather than this IAT guesswork. I just got distracted and forgot! So, it turns out I don't need an oil cooler currently, but we'll see how things go in the summer. The AP racing brakes were also fantastic. The primacies and stock suspension, not so much....

In Devon, there is a country back road from Starcross up Telegraph hill to the A380. It runs from the back of the oak meadow golf club. Its got a long straight at the start, then a nice windy hill climb. However it's only like 10 minutes of driving, so I wouldn't travel far just for that!

Sounds really good actually. Not too tiny - just deep and powerful sounding.

I think it's subtle but there is slightly less response - even in the hard throttle map. What may be confusing the matter a bit is that I spend way less time up the rev range now with FI. I also don't find myself feathering it on the limit of rear wheel grip going round a corner, because the power level needed to lose traction is achieved much earlier.

I thought the car frequently felt too slow in NA guise, even up the rev range. Adding 100hp to the rear wheel takes it to another dimension in terms of driving excitement, and I do use the extra torque on the road. Subsequently you don't have to rely on (more dangerous) lateral g forces for thrills. I agree that throttle 'controllability' is diminished, which is something I miss a bit from before the supercharger went on. I would never go back through. It's 10x better now.

Sold. V105s it is. Thanks people.

This is the issue. The discrepancy between their wet and dry performance is something I've never experienced before. It's like it's a different tyre. i want to replace them with some V105s which seem to be good performance vs cost, but again apparently fall badly in the wet. So I'm not too sure what to go with.

With a TVS blower you'll be going fast enough before you get to 5k. I like not having to 'work it' when I want power immediately. I would recommend trying a TVS charged 86 before plumping for a centrifugal or a turbo. There are good reasons for choosing any one of the above options in fairness. The other thing to think about is how much track stuff you expect to be doing. Centrifugals like the HKS are supposed to be better for hard track use due to the A-A intercooler.

I'll be going on track at castle Combe, March 4th if anyone is around. First track day since having the harrop supercharger and the BBK put on.