gavin_t

Interesting that there is mixed views on the HKS kit. It was top of my list as it was recommended by abbey and is something they can fit whilst my car is in for other work. However the HKS kit is a lot more expensive then the other offerings so was wondering if it is worth the premium. As for the baffled sump as I am not running super sticky tyres I was debating the need for one or not....

Wait until you fit bigger wheels, crud everywhere . I was thinking of getting some PPF film on the rear arches at one point

@RaskM wants me to help him with a terrible winter as per PM so I assume this is also related

Good amount of information and replies thanks peeps. I am currently in talks with Mark at abbey regarding some other work for my car so enquired about the reyland brakes and he mentioned he can supply direct so I think I may as well go via them for ease of not having to self fit and I wouldn't need to be home to arrange a delivery etc. Mark was recommending supplying carbon tech AX6 pads with the kit. I don't like the feel of the DS2500 in my OEM callipers so would probably avoid in the new kit for this reason in case it taints them with a bad feel. For the sake of £50 I will keep with the reyland disks but spec the curved veins if possible. I was swaying to J hook but maybe grooved would be better to be safe. @will300 are the grooved discs noisy? I used to have some stoptech grooved disks it the past and they made a racket @Rich196 reyland website suggests they have improved their floating design now to eliminate this. Don't think I need to upgrade further at present anyway from the normal disks. As their lines don't have the shock mounting that was my worry that they wouldn't be secure etc. Although if others have not encounter issues maybe I am over thinking things. PS I know people have said red but I think I am going to side with @deacon with black. Also are the brakes ok with clearance on an et35 18x8 wheel? As I may also be changing to a set of protrack wheels soon to save some unsprung mass.... Thanks again all

Glad to hear you are pleased with it. I found mine to be similar on fuel to before. I retained the original exhaust too and actually quite like the sound and good to know it is safe for DB levels at all tracks. Only thing I may not do if I had hindsight would be the gearbox mount upgrade as its not that much of a difference in my opinion and not worth the extra vibrations and noise. Shifter springs I do like though, if you drive a stock car it makes that one feel very slack.

I think if it was me and the one buckled wheel could not be repaired I would buy a new set of 4 all in the same offset and then sell the remaining good 3. Will provide good piece of mind knowing that they are all the same and will be economical when you factor in the money back on the sale of the old wheels. As @Deacon said 18x8 et35 is a nice fit for the GT86 or if you want to keep the factory fit they come in ET48 and been half an inch wider will be more or less the OEM fit and look. Certainly see if the wheel can be repaired first. If the buckle is not too severe if should repair well at a repretable place given it is a good quality wheel to start with.

@choupolo glad to hear you are enjoying the changes. I find flex A perfect in the wet even if a little soft when its a dry day. I think I will keep with the included DS2500 pads and see how I find them. Find DS2500 a little lacking in the OEM brakes but the much more efficient brake caliper and disk should provide the gains needed without changing pad compound I suppose.

Winner, winner chicken dinner

As will said they swapped to an in house supplied 18 inch wheel on the later aero's. Shame as the OZ were a lovely touch. I would say the options are: You could see if Toyota could source you one although I suspect it will be big bucks and will depend if they have one anywhere. run an ET48 wheel with a 2mm spacer, although other things like colour match etc may also be off. replace all 4 with a wheel of your choice Repair the alloy, a specialist would be able to quote and say if it is safe and possible.

I haven't come across this thread until now, great build. Hopefully we will cross paths on a track day soon. Did you resolve the knocking on the suspension? My hunch would be drop links if its still on going. I replaced mine when I fitted by flex A with some adjustable ones (can dig out a link if needed) Better quality and cheaper then the OEM ones and you can get the correct alignment of the roll bar with the reduced ride height so win win. I didn't even attempt to reuse the old ones as they were so shoddy. Reyland BBK is next on my shopping list along with some lighter wheels so good to see another happy user. What pads are you using in it? I would have thought the humming could be the pattern on the disks. I had used similar disks before and had the same noise until the disks were bedding in.

Interesting read, enjoyed that. Just seen the plate on the Fk8 and realised who Ross is. Used to love his Gt86. The Fk8 is a car I have often pondered due to previously coming from a type R background also. I loved the drive when I had a go in one but my only reservation is that it was so capable I felt I wouldn't have been able to enjoy it on the road as much as the 86 and would have to regularly track it to fully enjoy it. Also I should count it against it really but the looks are a little too much for me in certain profiles. Another interesting comparison was the recent one piston heads did with the GR yaris VS the top of the range fiesta ST. Something about that new Fiesta ST that I really like. Just not sure I could own one in Essex when there are at least 3 others down my street already

Afternoon all I am considering changing the anti-roll bars on my GT86 to move the balance a bit more away from understeer in high speed/long corners. I have come across the Litchfield anti-roll bar kit and wondered if anyone has first hand experience of this or other options? Litchfields website doesn't state the thickness of the bars etc but I have sent an email to see if they can provide any further data. The kit comes as a front and rear combo but as I am looking to move my bias to oversteer I wondered if it would be best to leave the front unchanged and just change the rear? as stiffening the rear should provide what I am after. Opinions and reviews of your setups welcomed Thanks

Cheers all. @Lauren I agree just seems on a balanced throttle the car has a nice neutral yaw and feel in slower stuff but in the faster stuff seems more understeer biased even when employing the same driving techniques and not pushing on too much too early. I am not expecting perfection as I am only on a little v105 road tyre. More the balance I would like to adjust. If I pass by that location soon I may pick the bar up to try as it's cheap and I can self fit and take back off if it doesn't feel right. Other option is to adjust the spring rate to 5kg on the front to adjust the balance that way.

As I said on Facebook thanks for clearing up the confusion. I think the owners comments made us misinterprete what was going on at first. I assume this has caused some internal damage to the engine?

Cheers at @Deacon for the info. What are your views and before and after changing the roll bars? @Shad thanks. I was using brands as just an example but find the same on many other corners also. Although I 100% agree that seat time and expert knowledge is worth its weight in gold. The instructor sessions I have done at brands and Snetterton are probably some of the best money I have spent. So much quicker and smoother once I have had my current technique torn to shreds and started again 😂

@Lauren my error they must be as @Deacon said and 6/6. They were the ones I bought from will and am sure they were the stock springs. So the answer may be to soften the front then rather then stiffen the rear to get the difference that way? With the damping I found on track fully stiff rear and two from fully stiff on the front gave the best feel from the flex a kit. Agree they are quite soft but I like everything else about them as they seem a good do it all compromise. Corners where you can trail brake in etc the setup is ace but a long corner like clearway at brands for example once you are sustaining the turn that's when it tends to wash out at the front. @Deacon it turned out the roll bars for sale I mentioned were the Litchfield ones. They were just in white line packet in his photos. Shame the Lichfield stuff gets bad press as they seem to do well with other models.

I will recheck the latest comments. When I asked about the springs he said mark at abbey had ID them as the old springs and quoted the part number.

Cheers all Current chassis setup is Tein flex A with the normal 7kg front and rear springs adjustable drop links and camber arms Running zero toe front and rear -2.5 degree of camber up front -1.5 degree of camber on the rear. So I feel I already have a good degree of camber on the front. Anymore would compromise other aspects IMO. I was thinking either stiffer roll bar on the rear or stiffer rear springs would be the answer. I had heard some positive things about after market roll bars from Will and Jeff at the last club trackday the other week which was why I was researching that avenue plus some been offered for sale in the for sale section. @Lauren have you heard bad press about the Lichfield items? Thanks Gavin

I saw a post on the facebook group by the chap that has had a valve spring fail. Abbey motorsport have confirmed it was one of the later batch of "new" springs that has failed. Hope we are not going to find there is still a fault, wonder if anyone else has had an issue with the new springs?

On the fluid and lines front I am stock. I do change the fluid every year though as keeping it fresh is as key as it been decent fluid, I have used ATE blue in the past and found it good. Can get it from euro car parts too so nice and easy to get

I had the PFC Z and took them off after the first track day. Quite, low dust, well priced, didn't fade. BUT I found they had no bite or feel what so ever. I run yellow stuff rear which seem fine. Not noisy, haven't fallen to pieces and are 4 track days old and still have life (although two of these were wet days) For the front I run DS2500 but am not completely satisfied with the performance. Road manners are fine, last ok but again feel a bit wooden under foot but are better then the PFC z. I an either going to go whole hog with a reyland BBK next or stick in some project Mu as recommended by Will, jeff and tashan etc.

plus it would then take the shine off the supra so kind of like shooting themselves in the foot.

Interesting to hear peoples views that have now driven one. I feel coming from a GT86 we are spoilt with a very low seating position and feel some steering so are probably the harshest critics on this front. Everyone else probably wont find fault. Also the seating position you get used to. I never used to think our daily clio was a high driving position until I got the 86. Now it feels like you are getting into a transit van @Lauren I think you made the best colour choice as flat white suits the car down to the ground, yours looks stunning Best time of the year for this car too. Went out for a drive myself yesterday and the roads are so greasy and slippery my 86's tail was all over the shop, I bet the 4wd compact yaris is a riot and claws itself around

Thats not the outcome we was all hoping for. Sadly i had the same thing with my problem where they footed most of the bill not all of it. Mine was not as expensive as yours so i didn't involve a solicitor etc and settled. I did chase them further but all communication i got at that point was that that once the decision is made it was final on their part. Be intersting to hear how you get on from here. I wish you the best luck. Did you get a courtesy car? If you have a dealer asset they may help you chase to get it reaolved asap.

Carfection always do good films and theirs is now online. Looks good in that dark colour too, looks at home on the wet roads of Wales 😎