spikyone

Ah fair enough. Are you trying to return it to the exact Litchfield spec then? I don't think they sold too many of them; most SC cars are running Harrop or Cosworth, with a couple of others. There were maybe one or two on here running the Litchfield SC, a long time ago.

You're not likely to find too many of those around, it's very niche compared to the other options. Any reason you're after the Litchfield kit?

An aftermarket shift spring and gearbox bushing might help. They noticeably improve the shift quality - more than you would think is possible - and don't cost a fortune. Your profile says you're in Croydon, so maybe have a word with @Mark@Abbey M/S, they're right on your doorstep and know the GT86 very well. The bushing apparently increases noise, but I had other stuff fitted at the same time so couldn't tell you how bad it is. (ETA - they don't particularly change the slight obstructiveness when cold though)

That's shocking! Weirdly I've just been getting quotes for another car; Admiral wanted £495 and Flux wanted over £1000. I'm 41! So it seems you need the right circumstances to hit their sweet spot. From what others have said you may not get hit too hard, and it's always worth calling Admiral and asking them to advise you what the premium would be so that you know beforehand. They should be able to tell you whether they'll cover it, and how much it will cost. I can highly recommend the NA package from TD, there is a good reason why so many owners have gone down that route 👍

I was insured through a broker (Chris Knott and then Adrian Flux) whilst mine had the NA tune. Neither of those wanted anything extra to cover the NA tune. Up to 10% extra bhp was free. If you're old enough and have owned your car for at least a year, I found those two cheaper even without modifications.

I wonder if you'd actually need someone of his calibre involved in a project like this; it seems to be a facelift of the existing car with some extra stiffening, new interior trim, and a bigger engine. It's a very different job from creating a clean sheet design.

I was on my mobile and in bed when I posted that; https://www.willtheyfit.com/ can show you how the fitment of a wheel will change compared to stock. The standard wheels on our cars are a 17x7J, ET48 (wheel diameter x wheel width, offset) with a 215/45 tyre (tread width/profile). Just as an aside, there's nothing wrong with a staggered setup (wider rears than fronts) from a technical point of view, many sports cars/supercars use that, but the stock setup isn't staggered so you just need to be aware that you will change the handling balance if you go that route and even turbo/SC you wouldn't need to go staggered.

They won't fit, you need a 5x100 bolt pattern and these are 5x120. Also these are two different widths (8" front, 9" rear), so you'll end up with wider rear tyres and understeer. Looks like you can get the same wheels in 5x100 though, pop "bola b9 5x100" into Google and have a look through those. I'd recommend reading up on wheel fitment/sizing first, as it'll help you understand what you're buying. There are online calculators that can show you if the wheels will fit.

It's not different enough for me, and I'm with @Varelco that the design is less attractive than the current car. I do wonder who will buy it. If you didn't buy into the ethos of the original GT86, are you going to be interested in this? And if you did buy into it, are you going to upgrade to what's essentially a major facelift? It'll be a hard sell. Different as they are, I don't think I'd walk past a GR Yaris for the GR86.

I can do either, August 3rd is slightly better though.

I'd be up for doing a 4 person day, are you thinking of doing it as a GT86/BRZ group day?

Put a new 65Ah battery in my car last year after the old one went flat with a couple of weeks' downtime. Now the new one is flat after a week of not using the car - admittedly I've only been using it for fairly short journeys but I used to do similar on the stock battery and that didn't seem to drain so quickly. Tried to jump it with a jump starter, but that just sets the alarm off every few seconds, which can't be helping with the battery charge. Can the alarm be disabled without having the ignition on so it's actually got half a chance of holding some charge? It seems a bit self-defeating to keep using electrical power when it doesn't have much!

Yeah I knew what you meant. I can't even use an extension lead from my house to the car; it's one of those new build estates and my car's in front of my garage, which isn't attached to my house. I can't have a power supply in the garage as it's under a coach house (fortunate, after the idiot who lives there flooded it a couple of weeks ago!) The battery's already dead, I just wanted to turn the alarm off so it doesn't sound whilst the jump starter is connected, seems stupid to have the car doing stuff that uses the charge (sounding the alarm and flashing the indicators) when the battery's already low. You'd think that it would detect the key being in/near the car and stop the alarm activating.

Unfortunately my car's not close enough to the house to keep it on a trickle charger. I've ordered the AA-branded charger/conditioner from Amazon, I'm just going to pull the battery out and use that to charge it. I'll have to make sure I drive it more, lockdown really can't end soon enough... Also had the fun of the mechanical key not working, so I've now got a proper one cut for emergencies.

Some TPMS systems know which corner each sensor was on. So if you've put the wheels back on in a different position (swapping front to rear), that could be causing it. Also the system takes some time to acquire readings, and the light will stay on until it gets enough data. It usually takes a few minutes to do that.

You might want to check out prices on different sizes. From Black Circles, prices of a PS4: 225/40 - £98.39 235/40 - £127.20 (+£115 per set vs 225) 235/45 - £162.37 (+£256 per set vs 225) Here's a 225/40 on 8.5, I don't think the stretch looks too extreme.

Peak power is about the same as yours, I think. The graphs on the link are whp; mine was putting out 250whp at Abbey so pretty much the same as they got from the Edelbrock, Mark reckoned that was around 290-295 at the flywheel. Mine hit 199lbft, which is a bit higher than the link, although my peak was from a bump in the dyno curve around the 4500-5500rpm range. That's around the top of the stock torque dip, so you might expect a decat manifold to perform better there.

I'm with you, closing up the arch gap gives it even more intent! WRC teams drop their cars something like 10cm for tarmac rallies (vs gravel) so nothing wrong with running lower if you want to do your best impression of Sebastien Ogier.

Not worth it, IMHO, they'd probably stand out more if they were painted. Even on the red car that @Lordyboi posted they're barely noticeable, they're a similar colour to the tyre or the inside of the wheelarch, depending on what angle you're looking at them from. And the inside of them gets covered in crap from the road so if you have a lighter coloured car that crap will be noticeable and you'll end up repeatedly cleaning them. @Jay Bamrah Here's the photos of mine: FRONT: REAR: And lastly, looking along the side at ground level: A lot of the 'dirt' you can see is just raindrops. You can see from the photos looking inside that they're pretty effective at catching a lot of the stuff that gets thrown up off the road.

Yeah, no worries, will get some pics when I can - might be tomorrow. I haven't forgotten about offering you a ride out in it at some point too, I didn't travel at all over Christmas and obviously we're in lockdown, but if you're still interested we can arrange something when lockdown eases.

Agree with @jw191, I have the OEM ones on mine too, they're discreet and effective. No idea why they weren't fitted as standard. You can get them direct from Toyota through eBay, or cheaper assuming these are genuine as it says on the listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-GT86-2012-15-Mudflaps-4-Front-And-Rear-Mud-Flaps-Pu060-18013-P1/360772270319

According to Howmanyleft, there are 23 of the vanilla version and 227 of the Pro. They did it! In all seriousness, that is not many cars at all. There are more of the new Alpine A110 than there are Supras. I've said it before - at £50k, you'd have to really want one to look past a new Cayman, or any of the incredible lightly used stuff you can get for that money - it opens up a lot of very interesting options. At the end of the day the new Supra just isn't special enough to compete.

I'm in Swindon. I'll be heading past London just before Christmas so could make a detour then, if the timing works for you. I don't know the exact date yet but I can drop you a DM once I've worked out details. Mark gave me a discount on some parts but not the SC. I spent a fair amount when mine was in having the SC fitted; they fitted my brakes & suspension (Black Friday purchases!), and sourced me a new manifold, catback, and some other suspension parts (LCA, ARB, and bushes) and fitted those.

Mine has a Harrop fitted by Abbey and I'll gladly recommend them and the Harrop kit. Most of the turbo/SC kits are around 280-290 at the flywheel, which is ~250whp. Mine is dead on 250whp with the Harrop. The stock clutch and injectors work fine for that. I'm running KW V3 coilovers and Reyland's brake upgrade with AP Racing callipers too, the brakes mostly because I get the stock ones too hot on track (even with uprated pads & fluid). Happy to take you for a spin in it if you want to see how it feels, it's definitely got punch 😁

Nice, congratulations!