Philip

CAR HAS NOW BEEN SOLD Toyota GT86. 2013, Orange, 6-speed Manual, 43k miles with full Toyota main dealer service history (7 services). Covered under Toyota's extended warranty until September 2022. Personal "86" plate. Recent main dealer service. High specification - including leather and Alcantara heated sports seats, navigation system, air con, Bluetooth, keyless access, electric folding mirrors, parking sensors. £13,995. Car is located in Hampshire. Full details and lots of photographs at this link

Reduction in price to £13,495. Bargain.

Bump. I've added some additional photos at http://katz.me.uk/GT86/

Not me - I'm just a rank and file member here 🙂 - but the Administrators and Moderators will get a notification and will be able to take appropriate action.

Thanks for the explanation. I can fully understand why you wouldn't want to sell to a commercial entity (American or otherwise) - I've seen too many other forums ruined that way.

Dare I ask whether there's any appetite to merge with the "other" forum? (Apologies if there's history that I'm unaware of).

Top right hand side of every message there is a "Report" link. (I also got one of these messages - and noticed that a number of new users joined the forum this evening, so obviously an organised attack)

Glad to hear that you got it resolved, and that it was something as straightforward as the bonnet sensor bracket.

There are three separate phases for the LED by the boot release after you lock the car. Firstly the LED flashes Green for 15 seconds "settle" time (during which time the ultrasonic sensors are disabled to allow any air currents in the car to settle). Then it flashes Amber for a further 15 seconds of "Threshold" time (when the ultrasonic sensors become active and understand what the baseline level for the car is). Finally, 32 seconds after arming the alarm, the LED flashes Red and the alarm is fully alarmed. Is your car doing this? (Also, the bonnet sensor is definitely worth checking, as it's the most frequent source of problems with the GT86 alarm).

What is the red/amber/green alarm indicator on the dash doing? Did your car come with a copy of the Category 1 Alarm System Operating Instructions? Copy attached in case not. GT86_Cat_1_Alarm_Handbook.pdf

Yes, that's the one. Fitted with no problems (the standard battery doesn't fill the battery tray). It also has the +ve terminal on the correct side (a lot of the "tell us your registration number and we'll show you which battery to buy" web sites get the battery size correct, but show the terminals on the wrong sides for our cars.

My experience of CTek Comfort Connectors on a wide variety of cars is that they always go from Green to Amber in a very short time (minutes or hours), so I wouldn't read too much into that. I replaced my battery with a Varta 70Ah Blue Dynamic - cost £73.83 from Tayna. Certainly seems to keep its charge much longer than the (uprated) Toyota one which it replaced.

Thanks. Is that when the steering wheel controls were also introduced?

I had something similar recently. My battery had died, so I disconnected it and bought a new one. When I fitted the new battery, I couldn't get the alarm to disarm or the siren to stop sounding. The keyfob just wouldn't disarm the alarm. What seemed to finally cure it was pressing the start/stop button three times (so basically fully on and then off) - at that point I was able to use the keyfob to disarm the alarm and I could then start the car. The other thing which may work (although it didn't for me...) is to use the keypad at the rear of the glovebox to enter your alarm code. The "quiet" siren that you heard was probably because it was being powered by the backup battery within the siren - this is a Thatcham requirement. Holding the fob next to the start/stop button is only useful if the battery in the fob is dead - it then uses NFC to let the car know that the keyfob is present. I have a GT86, so the BRZ may be different is some/many/all ways!

The alarm has its own built-in backup battery (I believe this is a Thatcham requirement). If the alarm is armed at the time that you disconnect the main car battery, then it thinks it is being attacked and the siren is triggered. The only way to stop it (as far as I know) is to connect up s good car battery, switch off the alarm, and then remove the car battery. I've also noticed that it is quieter than the full alarm siren. I guess that's because of the limited capacity of the alarm's backup battery.

Alternative view: they are all snake oil, so it doesn't matter which one you use, but you'd be better off not using any. I've never seen a Toyota (or Subaru) recommendation to use any engine treatment.

Unless there's a specific exclusion in the warranty (and I haven't seen one), then I would absolutely expect it to be covered. There are many aftermarket car batteries (Bosch, RAC, etc) which offer a 5 year warranty.

If the car is a GT86 (rather than a BRZ) then the warranty period is 5 years.

Already have my tickets booked for 2020 - which will be my 19th Le Mans. Every petrolhead should go at least once.

I'd also be interested in seeing the installation instructions before deciding whether to get one of these modules.

Yes you will. You just need to use the metal key to open and close the door, and touch the Toyota emblem on the key fob to the start/stop button to start the car.

When you click on the "reply to this topic", there should be a black menu with the formatting controls (Bold, Italic, etc) on it. The button on the right of the bar (which looks like a page with a magnifying glass over it) is the Preview button.

I imagine that warranty claims (especially when it's a marginal call, or goodwill is involved) will always be easier when there's a full main dealer service history. Also, personally I would never consider buying a second-hand car that didn't have full main dealer history, but that's a personal choice.

My car (which has been fully main dealer serviced) came with a book and it has been stamped by both of the dealers who have serviced it. The online versions are not very accurate (the description of what work was carried out is difficult to understand, and the mileage is incorrect for many of the entries). I have tried to get this corrected both through the dealers and through Toyota UK, with no success. As far as proving to a new owner that the car has been serviced, I always ask to see copies of the invoices for previous services when I'm buying a car. It's far too easy to forge a stamp in a service book. (At one point there was a huge trade in dealer stamps for Porsche dealerships which no longer existed, as the value of the cars was very sensitive to the completeness of the service history, and it was impossible for a buyer to check with a dealership that had shut down).

You can't really use a multimeter to gauge the state of a car battery - you need a proper battery tester that will place it under load.