Lauren

Ah the clunk. Will be the input shaft on the gearbox. Mine has done it for the last 90K+ miles. Some clutch adjustment may help.

I can't tell from your video, the clonking noise, I've no idea. But if it's just a bit of whirring when the clutch is up, it's likely to be the release bearing. Nothing to worry about really if that's what it is.

Wicked stuff, Ross. Sent you a PM. Gutting Jordan and Michelle, it's shaping up to be a good turnout.

Wow, Reiger! Top end suspension. Very, very nice. Amazing on the spring rates being so low, but Reiger know what they are doing. Bet they give a very comfy ride.

You should always get your geo checked when changing items on the your suspension. Lowering springs will affect camber and could have an effect on toe as well. Get some camber bolts to get some negativ camber and offset bushes to do the same at the rear. You might as well, while you're at it.

Pics and price as per rules, please.

Pics please.

Price and pics required please.

Yep, no problem. Ross. Room is your's. I'll PM you the details.

I should add, if anyone is travelling a distance and needs a bed, we have a guest room, just let me know.

Yes please, Mike and thank you, a lift would be cool. Boo, Rob, blowing us out again.

No, they are not as they are heated. It's a 'Pro' version, fairly obvious by the trim.

I wouldn't advise ever adding water given the life expectancy of the coolant is 8 years/160K. I have mine topped up when it's serviced if necessary. But IIRC it's only been topped up once, maybe twice in 90K miles.

On the Chunnel with Indy; IMG_4633 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr In the Dolomites (Italy): DSC_2299 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr

Welcome aboard. Are you thinking of buying one?

Please post up pics on the thread.

Welcome aboard, Gareth. Look out for meets, there seem to be plenty around the south east.

You can easily put a better head unit in and decent plug and pray speakers. That should really help. I admit, I had the whole stock system removed and placed with a pro-install, but it depends what you want of course.

If it's around the halfway mark cold, I'd leave it. Mine generally settles around that point. Just check it weekly when you check your fluids.

Welcome to the club. I'd say changing the head unit for something decent is the first thing on the list. To be fair the Toyota one is pretty poor anyway.

I've seen pretty much all these covers on cars when I went to 86 Style at Fuji in 2014. They do look pretty good in the flesh too, to be fair.

The best way is to book a track day and just book tuition for a good part, or all of the day, like Will said. I would also add that you can't beat one-to-one tuition. Given you're in the NW and if you want someone really good, try; http://www.simonmason.com An old friend of mine who lives in the Manchester area. Also I'd be very happy to help when I'm at the club trackdays, it's no problem.

Speak for yourself! I think I'm about the only one with EDFC that has taken a lot of time to work it out and more importantly work out what works. To that end I programmed it to my own parameters which many other's have used as a starting point. I honestly don't think I can get any more out of it, but that's okay as I'm very happy with how my car handles. There really is nothing to change which is why I haven't added bigger ARB's or even any bracing as such. If it ain't broke..... I have spent many hours trying different setups, at the time I had a really wicked commute with clear roads and I was able to compare and contrast different settings to find a means to get the best out of it. Also I've done over 60K on that suspension. There's a reason why, when owners get EDFC I'm inevitably tasked with setting it up. This is because I have spent a lot of time with Yukiko at TEIN and we have had many discussions about setup. Plus I seem to be one of the few that can programme it!

Looks like fun, but yes, some tweaks required.

Sure, though balance is what we are talking about. And yes camber certainly makes a difference, but it's how you drive it of course. Go in too fast and put on too much steering and the laws of physics tend to apply, so it's a lot about technique as well of course. The stock car certainly understeers more, which is likely due to the lack of negative camber on the front. You can drive around this to minimise this and it is worth learning how to do it which requires work on trail braking. A car with more negative camber suffers far less and so it is easier to minimise understeer, but trail braking will always be required, because as you say, it's about getting the weight over the front and unloading the rear to help the car rotate.