Lauren

I would match front and rear. The Primacy tyre will have less grip than your Uniroyals I would have thought, which will cause an imbalance in the handling. Seems like it's a period of adjustment more than anything for you.

Do it! My other car; IMG_4904 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr

This is always the problem with black wheels, you can never see the detail. Maybe paint them white, put on some white stripes, then it will stand out!

Sound pretty normal. But without sitting with you and seeing how you drive it, it's difficult to tell. Mine comes on quite a lot, to the point where I don't really notice it. It's in sport mode all the time (I only turn everything off If I want to get serious really) and the TC lights flashes away quite a lot. I wouldn't worry about it.

Wicked stuff Joe, for doing some different. Would like to get a ride to see what their like.

Avoid Litchfield. Sorry, not much help.

I really wouldn't worry about the rebuildable issue. I've done around 65K miles on my Tein Street Flex (before the Z and A were out) with EDFC Active Pro and I can report no problems. I'm still winning at sprints with them and I use my car every day. Currently at 86K miles. They're reliable. Flex A are rebuildable Flex Z are not. But a bit of a non-issue really.

Welcome aboard. Enjoy!

Go with the decals! Go nuts. People don't hate them. I really wouldn't worry.

Welcome aboard. Don't worry about mods and warranty it's really a bit of a non-issue.

I think the problem was that Litchfield didn't specify that. When I went in the car I really was suprised at the terrible ride quality. I asked Richard to try it and he agreed. Heavier wheels would likely lessen the issue to an extent. But it's still poor. Lowering springs and ARBs are a cheap way to do it, but the cheap way is rarely better. Much more preferable to fit dampers matched to a spring rate as lowering springs on their own generally do not work well in the GT86's I've driven or been in.

Congrats. They will change the window guides under warranty. The battery may be okay. Min took three years before it gave up. But you won't be able to get it changed until it's a problem. The tyres do last pretty well around 25K, though at two years old, they're getting on really.

Blimey there are a hell of a lot of changes. Took me ages to go through that. Interesting about turning the stability control off now disables the 'LSD brake' function. Not sure exactly what that is, but presumably some application of the brakes dependent upon speed differences or somesuch between the LSD? But also a ton of other changes from LED headlights, to strengthening of the engine block, lower friction camshafts and also changes to the induction. I will of course test one when RRG get one in as I would be interested to note the differences.

Yes, absolutely fine, no problem at all.

Nick showed Tada San, what he thought of your rear wing last night. I asked him if he liked it, in Japanese. He was a tad unsure in his response!

17x8 with an offset of 38 is what I have. Works perfectly. Be careful with your wheel selection, check the weight of the wheels. Stock are heavy at 9.2kg. Try hard to get lighter wheels than that as the benefits are well worthwhile.

Welcome aboard, Kieran. The usual rules apply, with the bonus that you'll still have a few years warranty remaining. Known issues are second gear being difficult to change down to when the car is cold, but this should not be an issue after a couple of minutes of driving. Condensation in the rear lights which is a warranty fix. Rust on the front window guides. Early 45Ah batteries (black top white body) are not really up to the job. They are replaced under warranty for a 65Ah one which is all black. Things like balljoints and bushes are hardy, I wouldn't expect any problems with those. The engine has proved a tough unit so far. Coilpacks sometimes need replacing and will throw a CEL. This is a warranty issue. No real issues with the suspension. The car's interior can show signs of wear. Some have had issues with the side bolster on leather and alcantara seats cracking and becoming worn. This may be a warranty issue, YMMV varies with this one. But, for example my car has done over 85K and not had an issue.

I just bought Rays spigot rings (aluminium) to go in mine.

Without getting the centre bore, can't say for definite, but a Subaru fitting says they should be spot on. A little less offset would be desirable, but that aside, a good choice. They look in good condition, I would say they absolutely need to be for that price.

17x8 Rays TE37. 38mm offset. I run stock tyre sizes. Yoko Advan V105's.

Driftworks sell Work wheels and some others. For the more exclusive wheels you are likely looking at importing. Volk Racing Wheels are Rays Engineering wheels btw. Or you can buy second hand (as I did) and refurb if you are fortunate enough to find a set!

Or run 17x8 and stock tyre sizes. Win, win.

Stock wheels are 9.2kg. So these are significantly heavier. It will blunt every aspect of performance a bit. I would look for lighter wheels. The stock ones aren't light. I would say look at lightweight Japanese wheels. Enkei, Work, Advan, Rays etc. Forged are the lightest, but also the most expensive.

Having tried the Litchfield handling kit which has lowered springs, Eibach I believe and corresponding bigger ARB's, I can confirm that it is the worst suspension setup I've ever experienced. The ride was terrible and it didn't handle well either. I can only conclude that Litchfield don't have a danny when it comes to handling of GT86's.

Welcome aboard. Is your brother on here yet? The burning question is, how are you planning on modding his car?