Lauren

That's good to know, Matt. Good luck with picking it up and enjoy the drive home.

Check it's had the valve spring recall as it will be affected. Also check it's had the steering wiring recall of 2016. Enjoy.

PS4 are available, PS4S are not.

It's a £600 service as it's tricky to get to the plugs. I would check that has been done or agree it at point of sale. As for the Primacy tyre, there are better tyres out there, though I stuck with the Primacy for the first 25,000 miles and did enjoy it a lot. You can get PS4's if you want grip over anything else. I had more fun though on Yokohama V105's, not quite as much grip but you could play with it more and a good upgrade over the Primacy HP.

Check it's had the spark plugs changed for the 60K service as that is an expensive one. Definitely change the tyres for something better. There is a pinned thread in the newbie sectionon what to look for.

It's most likely a dry joint on your droplinks. If the seal has split and water has got in, it will cause the balljoint in the droplink to rust which causes the horrendous sound. I changed my ARB mounts for poly bush ones as we were convinced that was the issue. Turned out to be my aftermarket droplinks (TD ones) , well one of them. Was difficult to see as well. They had been on for around 30K miles. Changed to Whiteline ones, sorted.

Hi Andrew, yes they are. Will let you know.

I'm there, can I just confirm the venue? I'm leaving around 10am. Still BD11 2DP Heathfield pub and carvery?

Looking forward to tomorrow, have even washed my car. Expect it will be filthy after Storm Ciara, or in the midst of it!

Labour should be free on plugs and also an oil filter and oil will be included. Only extra really is diff oil which you'll have labour for. I would suggest they are over charging.

I think that's the advantage of a BBK. Mind you I would get 35K+ miles out of stock pads/set up. This has been consistent throughout my time with the car. I do use my brakes on track, but far less so on the road, where I don't brake unnecessarily. 👍

F1s are hopeless on track though which the OP has said they want to do.

In hindsight, probably better if you couldn't free it by lighting up the rears which is harder in an auto, then worth getting something beefy to tow you for a bit to free it off if it happens again. A really wet day after you parked up would stick the pads to the disc. Thing is with a manual, you can be a lot more brutal, which is sometimes what you need. DS2500's are not hard on discs, so don't see why you'd need them skimmed. Just a bit of heavy braking will clean them up. I admit, I just change pads and discs together as they seem to last about the same. My DS2500's still have plenty on them after 40K miles. Discs are okay too. Reckon they'll need changing at around 50K miles.

Go for a longer test drive and take it down some flowing A-roads and B-roads where there are plenty of corners. National speed limit roads are what you want. I expect the problem was your route. Get a feel for the chassis and an opportunity to work the engine and chassis. See what you think then.

You definitely won't get them under 17" wheels.

Michelin Pilot Sport 4's are excellent, dry and wet and very good on track. Recommended.

Really sorry, but been offered a free ticket to go see City at White Hart Lane tomorrow, an offer I can't refuse! Only got the message this afternoon, so I won't be able to make it now.

Seven year service is an intermediate service. So just oil and filter and general checks. Changing plugs is done at 60K miles. So depending upon your mileage you can get the plugs changed for no labour charge, just cost of plugs. The details of the intermediate service are listed in your service manual. They can do the clutch too if it's worth doing, for cost of parts, again no labour charge.

Not really. If you have it all the way back it heats up still, albeit slowly. As I've said many times before, RTFM. 👍

Yes, it is the done thing in the UK to have the handbrake on whenever the car is parked, even with automatics.

Seems like a silly question, but have you tried to give it some welly? Also worth trying in reverse too. Easier on a manual car to be more brutal, but I would try giving it some throttle first. Do let us know how you get on. My handbrake tends to stick a little if I haven't used my car for a few days, but it's not really any effort to get it to release. But I hear it unstick as I pull off my drive.

Yours being an auto makes it more complicated. If it moves in neutral it's a gearbox issue.

GPWM! 😆

This is how the button works: Pressing foward is rapid heat. Pressing button back is for when it's heated up to maintain the heat. So push forward to get it hot quickly. Then after about five minutes press it fully back to maintain it. If you leave it pressed forward it will just cycle on and off. There is not a high and low setting. RTFM. 👍

That does, happen, but really it is user error. Driving in coats and not taking care getting in and out will cause issues with the leather side bolsters. Mine still look good enough after 145K. There is slight creasing of the side bolster by the door and the Alcantara has gone a little shiny in places but you would expect that with the mileage. Regular leather treatment helps too.