Lauren

It sounds like you need to go to a specialist car audio place, Nigel, rather than a big retailer. It's not that hard to have the sub in the boot. Okay I had a whole boot floor custom made with everything housed in there, including an MDF sealed box in fibreglass for the sub, with the amp and DSP and cables all under the boot floor. The result is I've lost no boot space. Mine: IMG_3161 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr

I think the short answer is, go 6/6kg. You will get some understeer as per the stock setup. But it's a safe setup. 5/6kg is a more lively set up, with geo setup the understeer is pretty much eliminated, but some may say the rear end is too lively. I admit I like it like that. For me, I wanted to be able to get the weight over the front under braking as I use trail braking a lot on track.

I have a sub woofer in my boot and amp and DSP and it's all built into the boot floor. I haven't lost any boot space. Focal speakers are very good. The ones you show in the top pic look like what I've got. What size is the sub woofer? Hard to gain an idea of scale from the pics.

Church, you can have hot air conditioned air as well as cold air conditioned air. The air conditioning dries out the air, that's why it's so good at demisting. So AC is not just for cooling. The temperature has been mild in the UK throughout December without any frosts and has been well above freezing. In the UK we have had the wettest December in many years, so it is more likely that the issue at the moment with the car constantly misting up is due to high humidity and the likelihood of introducing moisture into the car when people get in and out. It's far less of an issue when it hasn't been raining pretty much everyday for the last month which has pretty much been the case in the UK.

Yes, it will be 6kg front 4kg rear. I always remember because they are the only suspension kit with spring rates like this.

An Audison Bit 10 Digital Sound Processor is worth the leap providing they know how to set it up. Are you going for a sub woofer, Nigel?

The reason is, I'm pretty sure is that the cabin area is so small and there is a lot of glass. Mine mists up all the time. If you get in the car slightly wet or simply if it's raining it will always do it. I often have to have a quick blast in demist mode if I've been in the car damp and everytime first thing in the morning in the winter if I'm leaving early. So yes, I'd say it's a common issue.

They look good, I'm guessing the ones in the pic aren't the actual wheels though as that looks quite a bit different in regard to offset. Or is it just the angle? Good for you though on getting proper JDM wheels. That'll be a good size for a 225.

Seriously, just run the AC all the time. It makes a negligible difference to fuel consumption and prevents this from happening. I have run mine constantly in all the 80,000 miles I've had the car.

You'll probably need to invest in a decent high flow cat in the secondary position. I'm not sure the Berk one is decent enough, so it will add to the cost if you want to get the most benefit. But then again if the secondary cat will do the job, it's a cheaper way round it.

Atop the dash is not a good place for speakers though. Better off to use to the door speakers. I have tweeters mounted in front of the interior door release on the door panels as it's better for sound to have them there.

What was your front toe set to? Is it parallel, i.e., set to zero? Winter tyres in warm temps never feel sharp though, you normally lose steering feel and they feel a bit vague rather than sharp on turn in. What tyres did you fit?

One of those powerpacks would have been useful for getting the steering lock off for sure. Though the car has never let me down due to a flat battery, apart from when I've drained it having my audio on for too long. But again, yes could be useful!

Welcome aboard, what colour/spec of GT86 do you have?

Exactly, my home setup is the same as for my car, an amp and two main speakers facing me and a very good sub.

Surround sound is great for watching films. But put it this way, when you go to see live music, you expect the music to come towards you and if you were listening to music at home, you wouldn't expect or want music from behind you, it's just not how you do it. So a car is no different IMO. If you've got a car with a sizable cabin then you expect speakers in the rear, but I think the only reason Toyota put speakers in the rear was so it could say the car had a six speaker system. Given the tiny cabin, it's not worth it.

But it doesn't really offer much in the way of benefit, Sam. You don't want the sound behind you really. Next time come see what mine sounds like with just two ways in the front and a sub in the boot (and an amp and DSP of course!).

I think you need to do it in daylight, Sarah. For my limited time left in Reading and doing 13 hour days at work, I don't really have anytime where I could help you. Do it over a weekend I think, makes the most sense.

No running out of fuel doesn't cause any issues, it just ceases to fire.

You also need to get Dynomat Sarah, for your doors and boot floor etc. Can't believe you haven't fitted your door speakers though, I reckon it can't be more than an hours work, simply a matter of taking the door cards off and putting the new speakers in.

Just picked my car up. How's that for service? Full tank of fuel, new battery under warranty and my next service free, all because it can only be that changing the fuel filter last Monday must have had an effect somewhere on the issue with the fuel not being picked up from both sides of the tank. To be fair this is the first time they have changed a fuel filter and the problem could not have been foreseen. Now that's what I call service! Huge thanks to Richard, Gary and the team down at RRG Macc.

Realistically, Sam, it's not worth having rear speakers. They don't contribute and a decent set of two ways for the fronts and a sub will make it easier to set the sound up properly. I reckon you're better off sinking your money into decent front speakers with the money you save from not buying replacement rears. Best thing to do with the rears is disconnect them.

Richard called me and there was another issue. There was an airlock on the pipes between the two tanks, so the reason my engine died is because I ran out of fuel as it wasn't drawing from both sides of the tank. The fuel filter was changed this week, did this cause the airlock? It seems very much possible, but why it did that we are not quite sure. The airlock has been cleared and the fuel pressure regulator is no longer sticking so it is drawing from both sides of the tank again now as it should do. When I drove down to Reading on Tuesday I refilled the tank when it was not much below half, but coming back it died when the tank was between a quarter and empty as I expected to run for a few miles with the fuel light on to make it to Keele services on the M6 on the way back. I guess at this point one side of the tank was empty but as it wasn't drawing from the other I effectively ran out of fuel. Then when I went to restart the car the battery died. It had 45 Ohms of resistance which is not good, so that has been changed.

There was a very high resistance, which is likely a plate shorting out, so once it happens, that's it really. But yes, warranties mean that people don't worry about such things since they failed. Mind you my battery has lasted three years and 80K miles. I don't see why having an SC would affect your warranty in regards to your battery.

The new one is a higher capacity one, apparently Toyota changed the part number, so all good.