Lauren

Ooh hello! Yes, was likely coming back from the Carrs after walking Indy. :)

Removing the 2nd cat will make it a bit louder. Best done though really with a system as well.

I should have added that they are light weight forged wheels as that would clear it up a bit eh? ;)

Wait till January and change to one that is. Worth looking at the insurers on here.

Lap times are far more complicated than that though. You can see where Kev and I have been quicker than far more powerful cars a lot of the time and also quicker than the forced induction times. Lap times depend far more on the driver and their ability etc. There's also the matter of suspension and setup, so way too many variables to focus on power modifications in isolation. In regard to the 'torque dip', I'm not sure why people worry about it. If you're driving quickly you are always above it. If you're not, you're below it most of the time. The only time I notice it a little is accelerating in 6th gear on the motorway, where it doesn't really matter that much. My mods are: Injen Induction kit. Full Milltek system, 2nd decat and over pipe. Then there's my suspension stuff and very light wheels.

Not an issue with an insurer that is mod friendly. Just tell them, I did. They won't particularly care.

Yes he did and maybe TDI North's rolling road reads higher, but the trouble is my AE86 wasn't setup really. The rolling roads I used years ago, didn't include TDI North.

Many years ago a number of us went on quite a few rolling road days. We found that they didn't vary by more than 1bhp as a rule. I would say though that given I got the same this time as I did two years ago, that TD's rolling road is consistent. Our cars were measured on the same day within an hour of each other or so. I think that allows for a reasonable comparison. Wheel horsepower has way too many variables hence why it's necessary to measure the transmission losses through coasting down. But whatever way you look at it, both our WHP and Flywheel HP demonstrate that the comparisons are viable. If you whack your tyre pressures up you will get more at the wheels but not at the flywheel. That's the point.

I am aware of the issue with the Injen and it leaning out the air, but that's just a bonus really. I suppose my point is that I would expect a remap to gain me power everywhere pretty much. Not only filling in the gaps in regard to advance and fueling but also giving me more power overall including more peak horsepower. Yes I obviously have a good engine. I was careful with the running in and no I didn't follow the daftness of not going over 4000rpm for the first 1000miles. The £500 cost doesn't particularly bother me but obviously I want it to be money at least reasonably well spent! @Keith, I'm not having a go, but I was surprised at both your's and Jamie's cars putting out less than mine. It's not what I'd expect after all. But I would have to admit, I do think it's totally pointless if you don't gain power and actually lose it. A step in the wrong direction I would call it. I would also add that though my car has gained power over stock, it's obvious why really. If my car was stock it would make less power than it does now. The power of stock cars on the rollers seems to be pretty consistent after all. I'm sure you didn't want less power than you had before though Keith? If you can live with that, that's cool, but I know I wouldn't be happy with it.

It is odd that clicking the unread posts button and then clicking on a topic now takes you to the first page of the topic, which is a bit annoying as it didn't do that before.

I honestly don't think I'm getting caught up on anything, Keith. My car made more than Alec's did btw. The probability of your crash affecting your engine's performance is incredibly unlikely. It will be the case that your second remap cost you power in comparison with your first. That will be what it is. There is no way on this earth that I would be happy if I remapped my car and ended up with less power than I had now. That would be mad wouldn't it? The reality is that the driveability of a stock car is absolutely fine, so it's not like it's a problem and a remap should increase power as why would anyone spend £500 to get less? I know I wouldn't. I never said remaps are pointless. But if you are happy to pay a fair amount of money to make less power, that's fine. I didn't have my car on the rolling road when it was completely stock, my exhaust and induction kit were put on before I took delivery of the car. I put it on the rollers at 10K miles which was when I had the overpipe and second cat delete done. Intererestingly the first time we put our car on the rollers back when my car had done 10K, I still got the highest power on that day (more than Alec) for an NA and I also got more than someone who had a Litchfield remap.

No, that is with a Milltek, overpipe, 2nd cat delete and Injen intake. @Steve, your's will be less without those mods.

Yes, got 189

Number 2 is the best one to do.

There is no such thing as luck, as I've learnt, Steve.

I'll be interested to see what your results are on the rolling road Sam. I admit, I've been a bit put off since the results of the weekend at Tuning Developments of remapped cars.

He's NA.

Something to consider is that coilovers don't necessarily mean a worse ride. In all honesty having gone in Jeff's car with his spring setup on stock dampers, it felt somewhat mismatched on spring to damper rates giving a bit of a fidgety ride. I have coilovers which okay are a bespoke setup with all the EDFC Active Pro stuff, but my car is better than it was before. Also I go everywhere in my car including country lanes and the like and it's just fine, it's way more capable than standard. The ride isn't overly firm either. So you may want to consider that coilovers don't necessarily mean a ride that is too stiff. Plenty have gone this option and are pleased with the results, Jeff included as I'm sure he'd agree.

TEIN or Litchfield lowering springs I would say, though I've no direct experience of either.

Not really no. Mine made the same power at 10K miles and the same again at 74K miles. Sorry Jamie, didn't realise, bloody private plates.

Mine is a 2013 car, though obviously made in 2012. But Keith and Jamie's are 2012 cars too IIRC. Does this mean a remap is pointless on a pre-2013 car then and we can't extract more power from them? Seems unlikely to me.

Please post pics and a price on here. We don't like it when people just post links to ebay.

But I'd expect a remap to make more peak power than a non-remapped car like mine.

Or you could just learn to heel and toe. It's really easy on the GT. That's the thing for me, I'm not interested in the auto blip, flat shifting or launch control. I can drive the car okay myself having spent years learning driving techniques.

Just to throw a spanner into the works. I've been thinking about getting a remap on my car and have had the remap on my insurance since January. However, we did a rolling road day last Sunday at Tuning Developments. My car made more power than the remapped cars. All three of us have similar mods, induction, 2nd decat and an exhaust system. Just to make it more interesting, my car made 201.6bhp having covered 75K miles. It made exactly the same power as it did on the same rollers at 10K miles. Of the two remaps, one was 199.6bhp and the other 195.4bhp (IIRC). If I was going to have a remap then I'd want my car to make more power, not less. So I remain somewhat unconvinced. Both of these remaps were done by Fensport on the road rather than using a rolling road. For comparison on the same rollers a stock car made 189bhp.