Lauren

I've seen other articles on this. The driver of the GT86 was drunk and driving the wrong way up the motorway.

Please put up prices and pics of your other parts for sale. Please be mindful that pretty much all of us have all these parts sitting in our sheds for years. I am one of them!

Get the Reyland AP four pot 330mm kit. £1500. Brilliant for the money. Had it on for two years and 40K miles now, still on original pads and discs.

Welcome aboard. You have been busy! I've had my car seven years at the end of this month. Think my mods should be in my signature. Not done anything to it for two years now, just maintenance as I don't think there is anything else I need to do it really. Enjoy.

It's more like about 13mpg on mine on track. It's about the same as other comparable cars.

I'd go with what Jeff (Deacon) says. I run 2.5 front 1.75 rear as it's all I can get with stock track rods with getting the toe right. For Toe, yes go with what you said.

Do let us know what you think about it, Nigel. It's one of the few I haven't yet driven!

I would get the catback exhaust at the same time. Again if you go to Mike at TD you may be able to get a better deal on the lot.

I think with the difference in width front to rear, your car is not going to handle, it's just going to be tedious understeer everywhere. It's massively over-tyring the car really.

It keep the map you previously selected. Had my battery disconnected plenty of times lately!

Stoptech pads are a good option if you want to reduce brake squeal. As has been said, zero gain from swopping one cat for another really. Much better to change the manifold and get a remap.

You would gain a lot more from changing the exhaust manifold and then retune. Welcome aboard. A load of us are doing a track day at Donington on Sunday 26th January, if you're up for it? Could be a good way to see how mods change it as a number of us are taking well sorted cars there.

Can't tell from your vid. It's unlikely that the clutch has worn out. Could be a squeaky pedal (don't worry about it), could be an issue with the slave cylinder, but more likely it's just the sound of depressing the clutch. It doesn't sound like a release bearing. They can rattle a bit, but this is not uncommon and nothing to worry about. If the slave cylinder fails then the pedal will just go to the floor.

Could be a worn drop link, mind you when they do go, they make a terrible creaking sound, it's horrible.

I think they all do that. Use a trolley jack and axle stands for maintenance. I only use my scissor jack to get my car high enough so I can get the trolley jack under it.

You can probably pick up refurbed calipers on an exchange basis. I have looked on Brakes International. They don't seem to have any at present but might be worth an email to them. sales@brakesint.co.uk I can't see why you can't get your existing rears refurbed in all honesty. My rears have done 144K miles. They do have some issues with raised bits of pad at times causing them to squeak at low speeds, but I've just learnt to ignore it. It's not a problem as such. The trouble is with BBK, is that you don't need to change the rears, so you'd be better off either refurbing or replacing just the rears if you have to. I'm running AP 4 pots up front (Reyland kit for £1500), they are brilliant to be fair, already done 40K miles on them and still have plenty left on pads and discs. I do a lot of track work and competition though. For road driving, even driving the car hard, OEM are perfectly up to the job. The only time I've found them a little lacking was driving hard on Alpine descents but it's not like I do that often!

Once the map is activated it's set. Not sure why you'd change it then turn it off. It will start with whatever the previous map was. I don't tend to ever change mine.

But you can't expect a battery to be covered for more than three years realistically.

It depends how long it is since you used it. If your battery is over three years old and of the old black top/white body 45Ah I would replace it. If the car is under three years old, do it under warranty. Otherwise replace for a 65Ah. Lack of use is most of the problem really.

Spray the lock with plus gas, if it's stiff. Let it soak then turn carefully anti-clockwise with the key to open it.

Looks good. What was the torque output at the correct scale in lb/ft? Just to be accurate you have power measured at the hubs, not at the wheels. Not a massive difference but it is an extra variable. The Milltek sounds great I bet. Loved mine. But wouldn't have another after four of them cracked. Unfortunately the welding on them is poor, but I suppose at least you get a new exhaust every 20K miles or so.

You could just ask Toyota how much. Or look in the parts for sale section.

Huge mid-range increase saw mine go to a peak of 178lb/ft, but around 40lb/ft more over without at some points. Torque dip becomes Torque peak. No drone with the exhaust either. And yes, get rid of the sound generator. Never had it mine even from new.

Amazon. Was around £120.

It's most likely the drop link binding on the rose joint. I had one which made a terrible creaking noise when turning the steering. Water had got into the joint. With your's though it's probably the just the drop links moving as the strut moves lock to lock which moves the drop link and applies some pressure to the anti-roll bar. I guess a stiffer ARB will be less compliant than the stock one.