Lauren

Track insurance works like this. You insure your car for a given value say £20K. Excess is 10% so that will be £2K. Obviously worth it if you have a reasonable incident. The chance of car to car contact on track is so small it is not worth worrying about. So the reason for insurance is in case you have contact with the scenery. I've done trackdays for 15 years and used to work for a well known trackday company running the pitlane so I've seen all the incidents and car to car contact on a well run day is rare. Obviously up to you how you drive, but drive within your limits and observe the overtaking rules. Get some tuition as a priority and that will help you significantly. As for circuits well there is Brands in Kent, bit of a drive. Bedford is a good option, not the most interesting but plenty of room as others have said. Look out for novice days as it's a good option. Enjoy it, learn the basic techniques through tuition and build from there. Sprinting is great fun, I've done it for a couple of years ago and I raced tintops historically too. But I would say get as much tuition as you can on trackdays as that's a better way to learn and get the basics right. You will need a helmet and ideally at least some driving shoes like Puma Speedcats which are good. Driving in trainers is not the way to do it. You could of course buy some nice racing boots, but up to you what you spend. In terms of helmets, think how much your head is worth and the more you spend the lighter the helmet will be. Any helmet would realistically do but I prefer helmets designed for cars rather than bikes with an FR rating (fire retardant). You can of course hire a helmet from most trackday organisers if you wish to do that.

My first set lasted 14K on the rears and 25K on the front.

I'm truly sorry if i offended you, I'm not going to talk anymore about what I think is the more worthwhile option as I just don't want to cause any more issues. If I have come across badly, then I am very sorry for that too.

Keyless entry is standard, shouldn't be any key flashing on the rev counter at all. That's an issue with the key fob.

If I came across as hostile I'm sorry it wasn't intended. My car is setup for the road as I have already described at some length. It is in no way setup as a racing car. I really think it's your intepretation and for some reason you seem to feel I'm putting you down. I do find it suprising though that someone will spend £20K or £30K on their car then want to modify it, but then want to skimp on parts. Just seems odd. I also think that you offer a debate but don't want to listen. That's fine but there's no point getting upset about it. My point is that just changing the springs won't be as effective as the setup I have suggested. You also seem to have a lot of preconceptions about how online forums. Referring to dampers as shock absorbers is poor, just because someone else does it, doesn't mean it's right. I'm not saying Fensport or Amber are poor, but they are incorrect simple as that. I talked about the Tein Flex Z because it isn't that expensive and you don't need the EDFC stuff. It has received rave reviews and I know a number of people who have changed out their lowered springs for such a setup and been very pleased with the results. I shall refrain from further debate.

I really CBA to argue with you Ross. I don't think springs are doing it properly. But each to their own, it's fine. Some people are far more interested in looks and don't care about handling. From my experience of trying just lowered springs, I didn't think it offered any improvement over stock handling, but it's just my opinion, obviously go with what you are happy with. I only offered advice because you asked for it. Also springs absorb the shock. Dampers 'damp' that shock. Calling them 'shock absorbers' is poor American terminology. Anyone who works on suspension will use the correct terms, it is as simple as that.

Okay I've spoken to Jay. It's not been easy is what I'm going to say about it. There are two options. He speaks to Adrian and gets him to send a kit out. Or Jay will refund you. He doesn't have the money right now, but reckons he'll be able to do it in about a week. I tried to get a date but was not successful. Jay says that he is unable to access the forums at the moment. Here is his email address. Please use this to contact him and let me know how you get on. Sorry about all the problems, I've been trying to sort them out everynight I get to a hotel as I am in the middle of my holiday. jayashleysmith@yahoo.co.uk

I guess in terms of whether you fork out £2500 fitted on a coilover setup with EDFC Active Pro, is a totally personal choice. I've even retained the stock tyres after trying grippier tyres and not liking it. I like my cars to handle above everything else and it's a setup I've been happy with. I am now going to try Yoko Advan V105's but in stock sizes on my 8" rims to see how that goes. I'm doing it more out of interest to find better predictability (the progression of the Primacy tyre is lacking IMO) but I don't want to go up to 225's as I tried that with the V105's last time and felt it was a bit too grippy. Obviously different people want different things. I likely do more miles with a variation of different roads than anybody else in the club at present. I cover 30K miles a year, my car registered 1st Feb 13 has now done 68K. I drive around some pretty awful council estates in my job as a social worker, work away so cover motorway miles, compete in the sprint series and do big European tours. All of this means I have a lot of experience in how the car feels and handles. I've not even got round to remapping my car yet though, despite it being on the insurance since January! So it depends where your priorities lie. But I wouldn't look at just lowering springs, I think it's just not doing it properly. Also can we please use the correct terms. It's dampers not bloody shocks, that's what springs do!

You haven't factored in the power to weight though as the BMW will be heavier than the GT, so it's power to weight will be similar or less, which in turn would make it quicker. Also the gearing is obviously a factor. I admit, I don't hugely care about 0-60 times!

Sorry confusing you with Tareim, he has an auto. I've been in cars on lowered springs and it seemed to me that they did not match well with the damping. I think for a resonable price and by choosing a sensible spring rate with coilovers (this may be a lower spring rate than what they initially may come with), you can improve the ride and sharpen the handling. I drive on the road nearly all the time too. But, I like my car to handle as well it can do and having compared my car with various stock cars I've driven extensively, it makes the stock car feel vague. It's your money of course, but if you're a driver then you'll appreciate the difference. I'm currently in the Italian Alps, having driven the Austrian passes yesterday and have the Dolomites to do today. I apprecaite that my car handles far better than a stock car in situations like these. So it all depends upon how much you care about it. For me 80% as good as my car handling wise is nowhere near enough. For others it may be less important.

Diesel? I really would have no idea about such things.

I filled up with V-Power in Germany this morning. It had 100 RON 'Racing Fuel' at the pump. So the Germans get it better than us! Also filled up with BP Ultimate in France yesterday and that was 98 RON as opposed to 97 as we find in the UK. Much better fuel on the mainland it seems.

Whilton Mill is very good to be fair. It's just a matter of weighing up the distance from Amber to there.

Good stuff. Welcome aboard.

I still haven't done a remap yet. But I would say that sorting the suspension is more worthwhile having driven remapped cars. Yes they are a bit quicker, but it's not mega. The biggest gain that I didn't notice was deleting the 2nd cat. But, lowering springs won't cut it, do it properly with coilovers. The Tein Flex Z is an absolute bargain and with a decent geo setup will make a massive difference. The other thing you may want to consider, seeing as you have an auto is to consider changing the final drive so you have comparable acceleration to a manual. As other's have said, no point really doing a remap until you've done the exhaust/induction stuff.

I contacted Jay earlier this afternoon, I am awaiting a reponse but expect this to be sorted.

Was talking about Sam. Just get V105's etc, something like that. If you want the 1b tyres you'll have to go in the pro class.

Well, the point of the 1A list is that it's road tyres, so why not just run with that. Or alternatively don't worry about your tyres, use the Primacy tyres, I do and I'm still winning on them despite having less grip than my rivals. Get out there, learn to drive on the Primacy tyre, don't get obsessed with maximum grip and hone your skills. That way it will cost you nothing.

Welcome aboard!

Sounds really good. Last time I went karting at Daytona I ended up in A&E, so count me out of that one. But I'll think about doing the dyno runs. Will likely have Indy so karting isn't her thing really! Do keep us posted.

Yoko Advan V105's good all round. Get the extra load ones, 94Y IIRC. I wouldn't touch Nankangs or Federals. Budget tyres.

Just out of interest what route are you taking and what passes will you be driving?

There is no need to run on low grade fuel. Super unleaded and Shell etc are available pretty much everywhere. If you dip into Germany IIRC you get up to 102 RON. I will be in Lake Garda from the 31st July until the 6th August. Let me know when is good to meet up. If you fancy Sirmione for dinner etc, you're welcome, also you're welcome to spend a day out or two if you want not to be on your own. We're meeting up with a fellow petrolhead and close friend of ours which is Indy's favourite Uncle! He doesn't drink so will drive us around for the time we're there. Let me know where you're staying in Lake Garda and we could even come to you.

I bought my car on the 1st Feb 2013. I could have waited a month and got a 13 plate instead of a 62 plate. I weighed it up and thought about it, then decided I didn't care that much about having a new plate the moment it came out and preferred to pick up the car sooner.

I have two sets of stock wheels, one with winter tyres on, three with no tyres on and one with a Primacy on as an emergency spare. Obviously I have the TE37's which are on the car.