Lauren

The DC2 is incredibly sharp and point to point is just lightening fast. You have to remember the attention to detail is really quite astonishing on the DC2 with thinner windscreens, hand ported heads the like and many suspension revisions compared to the lesser Integra's. It's the type of detail you rarely see this side of a GT3RS. It's a much sharper tool than a standard GT86. Though my car isn't standard, so I think it runs it very close and is really simply different than the DC2 but just as capable.

In the nicest possible way and no offence intended. The written review is not a review. I watched the video. I think your friend presents very well. But it's a pity all he did was describe the car rather than review it. For his comments about it's 'cracking' chassis he just didn't talk about driving feel and explore that in any depth. So I think it lacked any depth overall.

It was way, way better with a fully independent rear double wishbone suspension compared to the torsion beam of the FN2. Also LSD as standard and 220bhp. FD2 was the pure drivers car of the like we haven't seen since the DC2. But it was never sold over here which makes it even more desirable. http://www.evo.co.uk/carreviews/evocarreviews/209845/honda_civic.html

Must admit, I think rather than a DC2 which I've had, it's the FD2 I would just love one of those. The worthy successor to the DC2. I did think about one for a while but didn't have the money. I was torn between that and the AE86 with my love of RWD. Though the DC2 is a real drivers car and I would like one one day.

I think it's a crying shame they didn't use any liveries from the AE86 though, there must be plenty to choose from. I like the idea, but not how they've done it. The wheels are all Rota knock offs of wheels they could have got, which will still be in production, but would obviously cost more and you'd have to individually source each set from the appropriate manufacturer. But saying that Rota make retro look wheels is not really the case is it?

Yes.

No wonder you aren't modifying it!

I think more likely they are just teaching basic technique. There's a lot more to learn when it comes to braking than that of course. As Whizzo said, 'squeeze the toothpaste and all that'.

I had a DC2, absolutely amazing car. The only car so far I've cried over when I sold it. That engine, that amazing chassis, the LSD, the feel, it was just incredible. Best handling car I've had. I may have another one day when I can build my collection.

But even so, 17K is nothing for stock pads. I did nigh on 40K and there was still pad left. Progressively increasing your braking force is the way to do it. Stamping on the brakes when you come to the corner is not the way to do it!

If you're setup is square it won't mean anymore understeer. Minor changes in offset are not really going to be a factor. More camber on the front to a point will help turn in and likewise on the rear. But you need new suspension as well then. Toe is also a factor, so it's a number of things, with Toe and Camber being the ones that affect it the most.

More like, Mike, people can only comment on what they've tried which is not many different pads considering the mileage of the cars. Also you can't really gauge people's driving styles. Add to this that anyone who doesn't go on track can't really comment either as we all know sustained track use is when the issues happen. Also to a point you get what you pay for, but you have to balance the longetivity of pads that will last a decent track session with how they are when cold and on the road. It's all very well having pads that never seem to fade, but not so good if they don't work well enough for a trip to the off licence and back. It's a bit like tyres, most people haven't tried that many different tyres on their cars and we all know YMMV, so in a way it's similar with pads. So it comes down to who's opinions you trust and it does help if you know the nutter that is the last of the late brakers! So that's basically no help at all then. Sorry.

The fronts do more of the work of course, Keith. So it will be true. Easiest solution is not to paint your calipers.

Obviously I have an AE86. I got that four years ago.

4 is best. Obviously of the non-approved ones (5 and 6), 6 would actually be way better if they were bronze TE37SL's rather than that gold colour of the Rotas. The big issue with black wheels is that you can never see the detail. It's subtle but in a bad way. The anthracite of the 57 Getters lets you see the detail.

It's basically 10K miles or yearly whatever is sooner. The answer is it will be September or sooner once you have done 10K miles since the last service. Sorry Nick. That's wrong!

Why don't you move nearer, Ztox?

The reality is, Keith that you won't make the 168mph or whatever it is geared to in 6th, which you will never get to of course, though the gearing in top is really all about comfortable cruising than balls out acceleration. It will have the effect of shortening the gearing so cruising on the motorway will push the revs up 400rpm at 70mph. I'd like to see what it's like, but my penchant for lots of motorway miles and upcoming Euro trips puts me off a bit.

Fair enough, AVCS, but changing the timing of the cams alters the duration does it not?

19's are too big and will look silly as 19's tend to. I think it's better to stick with 18's as otherwise you're just a GJOB'er. If the wheel isn't quite right choose the other one.

The Milltek is good and now they've added a flexi to sort out the cracking problem it's looking viable again. Non-res has to be really which is still pretty quiet I think with both cats. Even with a 2nd cat delete it is not loud. I do lots of motorway driving, it's not an issue at all. Also been to Italy and back as well as well into Germany and back. Again no problem.

Well, I've had the Stoptechs on for a couple of weeks. I haven't hammered it particularly, but I do think there is some improvement in bite compared to the stock pads. They are quieter and less brake dust by miles. In fact this really surprised me. I had a fast run down to the M6 from mine via Chelford, Jodrell Bank and Holmes Chapel and they did feel pretty good and though I was going pretty quickly I wasn't trying to murder them. But they did instill some confidence. I'd say I need a bit longer to evaluate them, but so far, so good and a lot cheaper than OEM too.

57 Getters. Rota Grids are just fake TE37's and everyone's got them anyway. Unless you are going to go all out and get the real thing I'd say the Getters would look fab on your car. Just so you know TE37SL's have the concave design, where do you think Rota nicked it from?

10K service intermediate so cheaper. 20K is the more expensive service. 60K service is the big one. It alternates from cheap service to more expensive one.

He's got huge tyres on it, isn't he up to about 255's now? Pretty sure he was on 235's for that pic. Overtyred IMO, but depends what you like.