Lauren

What happened with the Meister R's, Jeff?

I should add, it's absolutely fine of course if people wish to paint or coat their calipers. Its not my thing, but I get that it can be somebody else's. I also had no idea people cleaned their brake calipers

I have no idea why people paint their calipers, but realistically the paint is not going to be a factor in whatever the problem was unless they'd painted the insides of it! The problem is, Nick some dealers will just say some things so that they never have to deal with it. Get a good dealer and you're sorted as it is clear that YMMV.

I've got 17X8 Rays which are just great for 215 or 225's. 7.5's would be okay for 225's though. 8" is better. Mine have an ET of 38 which is perfect as it fills the arches that much better. I had to wait a while for a set to come up, but snapped them up for £575 and refurbed them with a red powdercoat. Total cost about £800.

Watch this space. Not just for me either.

Nice SW20! I think I've seen you around on IMOC over the years. 8J is nice on the 225's. 9J will give a fair amount of stretch. Though I've got tbh, I like a little stretch as it takes the slack out of the sidewalls which gives a sharper response if you like to play with tyre slip angles and move the car around a bit in the corners. I run an 8J with the stock tyres which are 215s. I look forward to catching up at some meets.

I hope I don't have to test it out, too soon, though I'm preparing myself for things like wheel bearings and balljoints as once past 70K it could be anytime soon, but of course they are wear and tyre items and I would expect to pay for those. Likewise the clutch which is now past it's expected service life. Thankfully the only warranty claim I had in the first 60K is a coilpack which was changed more as a precaution after it threw a CEL twice and the heated seat switch light failed (though the seat still worked). Not too bad going really.

60K for the spark plugs. Every 20K for the diff oil.

Also worth remembering the last two years of the warranty are not comprehensive like the first three are. Or in my car now I'm over 60K though my car is a little over two years old, I am now in the latter part of the warranty where things are not so comprehensively covered. Fingers crossed!

Hearsay I would say.

It's her birthday on the 19th.

To be fair the stock wheels look better painted, but your car is crying out for a decent set of wheels. It would just really finish it off. Any idea what you might be looking to get?

Welcome aboard. Were you on IMOC, having had SW20's? Square wheel setups if you're a driver. Staggered wheel setups if you prefer your bling/aesthetics and want the car to oversteer less. The car when it's cold first thing in the morning is a bit difficult to get into second gear when downchanging from third. After about two minutes of driving it seems to be fine and the usual slick gearchange returns. Some people have made a great fuss of this, but really though it'd be nice that it didn't do it, it's hardly a big issue. I wouldn't worry too much about the revs, the engines seem pretty tough.

Will be no more lift if they work, but given the duration is variable with the VVTi is there really much to gain by that? Keith if you went for forged rod, a higher rev limit is possible. Thought the crank was already forged and strong anyway. If we're talking cams, we're talking higher revs anyway.

Jay, I don't think you'll have an issue if all you are doing is road driving for the most part, unless you absolutely hammer it for a long period and I mean really going fast. 100C is not getting the oil too hot really. Also it's not a mega issue on track, I saw 125C on a very hot day at Donny, but really unless you are staying out for a long period, it's probably not a big issue really. But long track sesions perhaps are more cause for concern. I tend to do no longer than ten minutes at a time on track but I don't do many trackdays. Sprinting is a non-issue really.

I'm interested to hear what you're planning, Mark.

I would suggest that the subjective increase in theft is not significant at two cars where the keys were stolen from the owners' houses. If anything the best form of prevention would be to ensure your keys are safely stowed somewhere and not easy to find should someone break into your house. That'd be a far cheaper and more sensible option.

Welcome aboard Steve, enjoy the car, hope to catch up at some meets at some point soon. There is Tunerfest at Oulton on the 11th July which we are likely to have a club presence at. Track time if you want it too.

Toyota recommend 98 RON or super unleaded. It also states it on the filler cap. If you have to you can use 95 RON. In 63K miles I've never had to resort to 95 RON though as obviously super unleaded is widely available, I use Shell V Power 99% of the time.

I would add if you're buying second hand at least get a car with the leather/alcantara or full leather seats. Really worth it over the cloth I would say and isn't really going to cost you more to buy. That TRD is over priced. Not worth it. Unless you're desperate to get a TRD. Bear in mind that nobody every paid full price for the TRD. So I'd want to knock a bit off the asking price.

I don't have a problem with what you've done at all Nige. Your choice. You've bought a replica kit and decided to make it fit. Not an issue or my concern. But, if you should start to market replica kits, then it could potentially cause a problem for the club and it would land on the heads of the directors of the club of which I am one. I know you haven't said you would do this and this discussion is off the back of someone asking for you to potentially do that. Should you wish to do so, I would ask that you do not involve the club nor, speak of it on here. I've had a similar issue on IMOC which I'm also a director of and we had to ask the seller not to sell such parts on there as a result.

Fed Ex will do you for a processing charge and you will have the the VAT too of course. £60 VAT + around £25 or so for the pleasure of Fed Ex. So bugdet an extra £85 once it's landed I would say.

Yep, I do think that's it, i.e. it's a safer setup, understeer is easier to deal with compared to oversteer. I must say my car does not understeer like the stock car, nor does it understeer like the 6/6kg setup I've tried. So, it is as other's have said a matter of preference. Bles you can easily get the same setup as I have if you desire, just speak to Fensport and they will speak to Yukiko. I can also contact Yukiko on your behalf if you give me an email address she can reply to, but Adrian knows the score, so I'm sure he can sort it.

I have run a 5/6kg spring rate for the last 30K miles with a lot of road driving, sprinting and trackday stuff as well. I would say that my car is one of the better handling cars out there, though it is of course down to what the driver can do. I'm pretty happy with my spring rates. Rob went for the same when he got his car sorted. It's a personal choice, but I prefer the 5/6kg over a 6/6kg as tried in Keith's car. I don't run any additional bracing as I'm yet to be convinced it's necessary. For me, I wanted the weight transfer under braking so I can transfer the weight effectively. It was for this reason I didn't uprate the roll bars either. It seems to work very well and I can pedal the car pretty quickly when I'm minded to.

But it is copying kits and potentially that could be an issue even though you're making a fake of a fake! Had a similar problem elsewhere, it's just we cannot condone stuff like due to the outside chance of Rocket Bunny wishing to pursue it. Making fakes and selling them is not legal after all.