Lauren

It must be your age, Kev. Still there's an upside to it.

Glad you finally found one! Yes no miles left option for fuel, though we debated in another thread that it was fairly useless anyway.

I don't think there can be any luck involved with consistent times like that, Mike. Very well done indeed. Must get a ride in your car. Or if I can be cheeky have a little go?

I just wanted to say it was a fantastic drive by Mike yesterday, beating all the other Toyotas including the Pro class of course! Nailing such consistently fast times by Mike, proves how good a driver he is. Well done Mike! Hope you liked the suspension settings!

If you are going to the Ring, I'd say get some experience on UK tracks first. Also do a few hundred laps on GT/Forza etc, to learn the track. It often rains at the Ring and it can easily be sunny on one part and dry on the next such is the weather system there. I'd get some expericence of driving in the wet. I say that because if you end up going there and it rains and you don't go out because of it, it's a bit of a wasted journey. Gain confidence in the wet, take the fear out of it.

It will stiffen up at the rear due to longitudinal g-force. How much is up to you.

Looks great, crying out to be lowered now.

Looks fab, it really does work well!

When you set the ride height, it's better to measure from the sills to a flat floor. But, as long it all measures okay, that's fine. James the lightweight pulley kits do not seem to have a harmonic damper. For the negligible gian (and it will negligible) it's not worth the risk.

Welcome aboard!

Why don't your publish your's and Dave's data, Keith? I can sort of see why you could use speed settings on track, but you'd be using a small range of speed adjustment, because if you start off at 40 or so, it's already pretty stiff. There's no benefit to being softer than 40 at lower speeds that I can see, so trackwork seems to negate the speed settings to a large extent. On the road I use the speed settings as it makes sense there.

That is quite light are they 9's? But a cast wheel will be nowhere near as strong as a forged wheel.

No, no need to have the speed settings on. It's the lateral G you want to work on the track. As I have no need for it to be soft at low speeds I start it off at 40 or so. at full stiffness it will go up to around 10 and you need to leave a bit for braking settings

Definitely an improvement. Bet you can't wait to get the bodywork done now!

Welcome aboard! You may want to re-evaluate getting a Milltek. They are prone to cracking. I'm currently on my third!

This is a good fast road setup. What it does is go full soft at slow speed, then stiffens up as you increase your speed. The damping force on the lateral G is more than the stock settings, which means it firms up very quickly, which is great. I've settled on this setup for the last 8 months. When I go on track I just turn off the speed setting and start it off at 40-35 depending upon the track.

Also with an 8" rim you want an offset of 38mm, as it sits the wheel further out in the arch.

18x8 with a 225/40/18 is fine. If you want wheels that are light, you'll need to look second hand unless you have a couple of grand knocking about. Cheap Taiwanese copies (Rota etc) are heavy and not as strong as forged wheels. Most people buy them for aesthetics and price. I prefer 17's, as cars handle better on smaller wheels, plus they are lighter. My wheels are 7.4kg, against stock at 9.2kg. A light wheel makes a big difference. If you can't afford forged wheels like TE37's, etc, then you could look at Gram Lights which are a good half way house, being a decent Japanese wheel and still relatively light. If you fit 17's and put 225/45/17s on then there is too much sidewall flex, this is why I run stock sizes on an 8" rim. 225/40's on an 18" wheel are fine though as there's less flex with the reduction in profile. It all depends what you want really. If you want cheap and for it to look good, buy some Taiwanese copies. If you are all about handling and that, save up for some Rays or keep a beady eye out and buy secondhand like I did, then refurb them. The good thing is, my wheels will always be worth what it's cost me. Or find a compromise and buy Gram Lights, Enkei or Works wheels.

You're welcome to use my settings, but note I always work in km/h, for speed settings, so you'd need to convert to mph if you are so inclined!

Here you go:

Mike, I did my own custom setup with the Tein EDFC. I'll admit, after months of fiddling I've got a setup that works very well on the road and can easily be tweaked for the track. My setup is a bit more aggressive than Keith and Dave's, I spent quite a lot of time getting to grips with it, with a good amount of input from Yukiko. I do have a copy of my setup, which I think is on the forum somewhere. Will see if I can find it for you.

Mine from today: IMG_3800 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr You can tell how stressed I am by how good my miles per gallon I get. The more stressed I am the slower I drive! That's over 105 miles or so.

I'll bet there was still some fuel left even after those last five miles. Tbh from years of driving many different cars, I know what the range is. So I can with the help of the fuel gauge easily know where I'm at. I just look at where the gauge was and how many litres it takes to fill it up. Then I can subtract that from the capacity of the tank. Also with an average mpg calculator it makes it even easier. Honestly within a couple of fuel stops, I'll be able to guess how many litres are left at the point of filling up. I reckon I guess to the litre now I've done 58000 miles! So really, who cares about a miles left option?

The miles left thing is a bit of a nonsense though. On every car I've had that has had it it goes to zero or just '--' once the light come on anyway, so it's a pointless affair.

Changing your geo will improve front end turn in. It's not so much tyre related.