Lauren

@Church, yes pillowball mounts on the front will increase NVH. You don't notice the rear lower arms though. Maybe it's because I've got pillowball mounts up front? 🤣

I'm keen on this one and reckon I can do it, but will have to get back for Le Mans. There are some fabulous roads on the way to Shrewsbury as I'm going there regularly lately for work. I notice it's dog friendly, but not sure if Mark would come or not yet. It's in my diary.

I've ran with stock alignment years ago. The tyres took it okay to be fair. Don't mess around with adjustable front lower arms if they even exist, just go for pillowball top mounts. It's a no brainer. Better to go the whole hog thogh and fit coilovers if you want to transform the handling. You won't notice any increase in noise through adjustable rear lower arms even with rose joints as I have. I have SPL lower arms, billet aluminium, titanium adjusters and rose jointed ends.

Well there's no clutch to worry about, so just spark plugs really.

Obviously get the spark plugs changed. Up to you with the clutch, 54k miles is not a lot for a clutch if driven well. If you do want to get the cluch changed get your dealer to order it asap as they are on back order.

I run 2.5 degrees negative on the front and 1.45 on the rear and don't have issues with uneven tyre wear, on the track or on the road.

Always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher. I've always had one, fits well enough in the glovebox.

It's not possible. I would say more like 1.5 degrees max with camber bolts. You won't get uneven tyre wear with stock settings i.e., barely any negative camber and it's fine at 2.5 degrees. There is no camber adjustment at the rear, so no.

I would say so, yes.

It will be yes. Pretty sure it's only the rear bit that is TRD, the rest is stock.

The TRD system is really quiet anyway. Barely louder than stock. It's not technically legal to remove a cat, but if you still have the primary cat it will easily pass the MOT. It won't be that loud with the cat removed. You may want to remove the resonator as well.

It's probably easier and way cheaper to get an exhaust place to make you an unresonated centre pipe between the second cat and rear silencer. You could also lose the second cat, that will make it a bit louder.

Non-res on a stock car is no problem at all for track days even with a second decat. They sound great but I wouldn't have another due to the poor welding. I got bored by the fourth one and went for a TD exhaust instead, mainly because it doesn't crack.

Never noticed it when I'm using the harness. It's no different to the passenger side and you don't notice that flapping around when you don't have a passenger do you?

The belts are sided with an anti-submarining bit built in, so it would release and lengthen the shoulder strap on the left hand side to prevent it pulling you to one side. It's not designed to be used with HANS, well your seat isn't. It may or may not put your neck under more load. I shouldn't think it's any different than the effect of a regular seat belt though. The age old harness/roll cage debate. I just think it's rubbish really, but others seem to have a strong viewpoint on it. The likelihood of the roof caving in and it compressing your neck is a very small one probability wise. I.e., not significant. Your head, your decision at the end of the day.

Welcome aboard. TD manifold and remap is a good option.

I don't really feel that my car qualifies as a 'Project'. It's got a few good modifications but not too many. I think that really I've spent most of my money on simply maintaining the car to the highest standard I can. So if you are hoping for mega engine builds and ridiculous bling, you may well be disappointed! Here's my car and I in the Italian Dolomites last summer: The GT86 and I by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr In terms of modifications, it has a custom Tein Streetflex setup with 5kg fronts and 6kg rear springs and revalved 20% stiffer rear dampers along with EDFC Active Pro which I have programmed to my own setup for road and the track. It also has a Milltek exhaust with a secondary decat and overpipe and an Injen Induction kit. Though I've had a remap on my insurance for a year now, I still haven't got round to having a remap done on my car yet. I also probably have the best sound system in the club, (I think anyway). I had a custom pro install, featuring an Alpine INE 925R head unit with DAB, a Hertz 950W three channel amplifier, 12" JL Sub with custom enclosure in the boot floor and Focal 3 two way component speakers with the tweeter in front of the door handle, rather than atop the dash. I have an Audison Bit 10 Digital Sound processor which has been optimised with regard to speaker timing and the like for the driver. It's pretty special. Interior wise I have a 350mm Street Rage (I think!) steering wheel, carbon gear knob and TRD engine start stop which I got for half the price in Super Autobacs in Yokohama MM, Japan. I have TRD Aero Fins on the outside and genuine Rays Engineeering/Volk Racing 17x8 TE37s, shod with Yoko Advan V105s on the front and Contisport Contact 5's on the rear. I also had a whiteline gearbox mount to firm up gearchanges. Now I know I haven't quite got the highest mileage GT86, but I can't be far off. Today saw it go through the 80,000 mile service, a month before it's third birthday! Now I've already experienced the expensive 60K service, but for the 80K the fuel filter needs to be changed and this is an expensive item at £158 or so then there is the matter of brake fluid, diff oil and then all the usual service stuff, plus an MOT! Here's a vid, I got from the checks over my car. Love it that RRG Macc do this; https://video.citnow.com/vtKspxQ_G9c Well MW62 XWX passed it's MOT with just the primary cat with no issues, which may answer some questions for some! I've also had the Cusco headlamp leveller adjuster fitted and on the drive back I could instantly tell that the lights were a fair bit higher than they were before on a dipped beam. This should make all the difference on a dark unlit country road come tomorrow morning. Amazingly the Stoptech Pads I had fitted must be 20K miles ago are still only 10% worn! I must admit though I'm particularly easy on brakes, I simply don't use them much. Also I'm still on the original clutch which seems absolutely fine and I've not had any replacement ball joints or any bushes failing either. The only things that have been replaced in the life of the car was Coilpack A (IIRC) as it threw a CEL, though only after a particularly harsh change up at the redline. It didn't cause any problems and was changed as a matter of course at the 60K service interval. I've also had a nearside driveshaft changed under warranty which may in part be due to the car being lower than stock. Oh and I should stated I've had the heated seat button fail to illuminate resulting in a replacement button, but the heated seat still worked fine! So far this car has been extremely reliable and seems to be very well built with no real issues at all. I've done two seasons of the sprint series, been round the Alps twice and out to the old 'East' of Germany VMaxing the car on the autobahn and it's been just brilliant. I'm coming up to my 3 year PCP ending at the end of January and I am very likely going to keep the car. It may end up a bit like Trigger's broom, but I intend to upgrade parts as they wear out. I will try and keep a bit of a blog going with stuff with the car as it will get upgraded once more pennies come in!

Thanks. I haven't considered the rear Brembo kit, as it doesn't really offer a worthwhile benefit. Will admitted he did it for looks. Function over form for me and no point me spending money on things I don't need etc.

Thanks. Yes it is a take on Chris Hodgett's winning AE86 BTCC car. It's Toyota GB's livery that they used on the Britcar GT86 which itself is a copy of Chris's works AE86. We just changed Toyota GB to RRG Macclesfield.

The auto has a torque converter, it doesn't have a clutch so there is nothing to replace. I'm sorry though I have no expertise on what you can do to upgrade the auto box. You may want to look at Special K's thread as he spent 10K on upgrading his autobox all to no no avail.

Too much throttle under 2000rpm labouring the engine?

Had an issue develop post recall with my car stalling in traffic. It then developed an uncharacteristic Subaru burble and felt like it was missing at low rpm. I took it to RRG but there were no fault codes and they couldn't find anything wrong. After a second visit and again no diagnosis it threw a code on the way home, P0017 which indicates camshaft/crankshaft position sensor. Richard and Gary diagnosed this as a faulty idle control valve as it changes the exhaust cam timing up to 3000rpm where the VVTi takes over. This fitted the symptoms perfectly as at higher rpms the car drove as good as ever. Gary fitted a new idle control valve this morning, it didn't take long as it's two bolts on the end of one of the exhaust camshafts and is easily accessible. I gave it a shake down after and the car is totally transformed, well by that it's back to normal. Nice steady idle and more importantly pulling cleanly at low revs where lets face it you spend most of your time in road driving. TGB will be picking up the bill which is a result. Now ready for my trackday at Blyton Park tomorrow. A huge thanks to the team at RRG as ever.

It doesn't sound like you are hardly using it at all. Those are very short trips even on the motorway. Just use Shell V-Power and do some actual mileage.

From the OP: The ARB has been carefully removed by Dream Automotive along with the rear OEM droplinks which are still in perfect condition (included in the sale), so would be a directly replacement bolt-on, DIY time is 45 minutes - 1 hour.

Your car is looking absolutely fab, Will, great job.