Lauren

£5K will get you to 300bhp the cost of a turbo. Why not speak to Adrian at Fensport? He'll be able to tell you all about it His GT86R is running 660bhp or so now. It's not a road car though. Another £5K say for the engine build so it can take more power. £1000+ for wheels £500 for tyres £1000 for coilovers £1500 for BBK minimum Then all the labour costs to add to that. Don't forget to add oil coolers and all that stuff too. I've driven a Stage 1 AVO Turbo and the Stage 3 a few years ago. I preferred the delivery of the Stage 1. Stage 3 felt a bit like overkill, so be careful what you wish for. I've driven powerful cars and the whole experience is dominated by the power which is not always a good thing.

Yeah of course. That's for non-floating discs (which seem overkill for me), but you can pay more for floating discs and even more for AP discs. It's a great deal £1500 for everything you need. Mine have been on nearly a year now. They've been amazing. The stock brakes are fine for the road, don't bother changing them if that's all your doing with them. I do quite a lot of track work as well as competing in the sprint series. I've found the stock brakes with aftermarket pads do tend to fade away if you push them hard. The AP's on the other hand are pretty much endless and more importantly over anything else they keep their consistency. I do agree the stock calipers are horrifically ugly, though I care not about stuff like that really. It was far more about performance for me. Mine: IMG_5057 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr

I have AP four pots. I haven't changed the rears. There is no difference really in the brake bias that I have noticed. Pedal travel is not increased. You've probably read about the poverty spec front calipers that are with the smaller front discs. This isn't an issue in the UK unless you have a Primo. So there is no need to change the master cylinder, you can just buy the AP four pots with 330mm discs, fit them and be done. Reyland offer the best deal on this really at £1500 for the kit.

Of course you can come!

Clashes with TSS, well the morning after!

You need to post the add on here together with pics, price and location etc.

I do three sets of rears to a set of fronts. Depends how hard you work the rear really. About 7K for the reads and 20K for the fronts is what I get.

I've had my Alpine INE925R in my car for nearly five and a half years now. It does have a detachable front panel thing, but I've never bothered removing it. Left it in the rougher parts of town everywhere in that time. No problem. I don't think it's an issue really. The standard HU is frankly a bit rubbish, just about anything would be an improvement.

I'm not sure that an FAQ would be appropriate as how can you have a consensus on what head unit to fit? I would say you should fit a decent Alpine HU, though they are double the price you are looking at. There is the cheap Chinese, Joytech or something that you can get that does everything. Some like this, others don't. Just get some low-midrange brand like Kenwood or Pioneer. There should be plenty of options available. The double din unit will need a a surround to fill in the gap around the sides or you can get a few that are wide enough not to need this. Personal preference and all that.

Tyres do go hard with age. Check the date stamp on your old ones. I wouldn't fit tyres that were over two years old for this reason. New tyres always feel better though. It takes a little bit of time to scrub them in.

It'll be absolutely fine, just check the torque on the other bolts, frequently if you want to be safe. I had a situation where I lost a wheel nut and didn't notice, not sure for how long either, but probably not more than a week. I wouldn't say you have to drive the car differently.

Go to RRG Macclesfield Toyota. They have no problem with fitting aftermarket parts and Gary is akin to some kind of Jedi when it comes to sorting stuff out and fixing issues.

I think (pretty sure I disabled it for myself) there is an option in settings to get emails sent to you for replies to threads. You may need to go into your control panel for this though. I used to race an RX8 but strangely have never driven one on the road! It's a great car. I think the chassis is slightly better on the GT86 and it's a bit lighter too.

It's not common sense at all, but never mind. It's through years of experience both on the road and in competition that I know that.

I'll leave it to experts like you. You're welcome.

Yes really. I run a light weight forged wheel that is 1.8kg lighter than a stock wheel despite it being an inch wider. Feel is everything in competition of course. It will be better because of it. That's the point!

As long as you're 'happy enough' that's all that matters. For those of us that compete the consensus is to run the narrowest tyre within spec of course for the widest wheel width. Makes responses much sharper and takes the slack out the sidewall.

It should be perfectly stable. I have an issue when there is a lot of bass, but I have an aftermarket sound system with a big sub. Sounds like your's is loose.

Now that is a great idea, good one, Mark. I'm up for it. I hope you don't mind, but I've posted it on the other forum too. I've done it a fair number of times before. I did it when my car was less than a day old! First proper drive of my car.

Event Title: NW- Drive out with Jap2Jap Event Author: Lauren Event Date: 04.11.2018 to 04.11.2018 My friends at Jap2Jap are organising a drive out on Sunday 4th November from 11am. There are plenty of great roads to go for a drive where we live. Will it be the Peaks, Moors or North Wales? We shall see. Updates here: https://www.facebook.com/events/2070912833224351/ I will of course update the thread when I know more. I'm sure we can fit in a pub for Sunday roast afterwards. NW- Drive out with Jap2Jap

Bad news, it's been cancelled.

You can, but you wouldn't want to really. 8 or 8.5, ideally would be better for 225. I run 17x8's and didn't like the sidewall flex due to the increased profile on a 225/45/17. I have now run 215s on an 8" rim it seems to work well.

Well you only need the drivers side heated. Given you're never going to sit in the passenger seat it's not so important.

We now have a Vice-Chairman. Jordan has put himself forward and we are very pleased to have him. Welcome, Jordan. Jordan has a great passion for all things automotive as you all know and has been helping me run the Facebook page for a good while now. It looks like we are going to have a get together at the Xmas party, to get things in place and look forward to moving things forward for next year.

Some pads need heat cycling to bed them in. Should be instructions with them if they do.