Lauren

It'll be something like putting your coat on (or the previous owner) in the car and catching the zip on the wheel. I've done similar damage to mine in the same way. It's just damage from something being caught on it. There's no real problem with the steering wheel, it's just carelessness I'm afraid.

10510 is what I got which is the correct one for the driver.

It is no different from the stock red. The TRD is not a factory fitment either. The bodykit, just like the Aero is fitted at Portbury Docks so it is not a factory edition. Obviously you can reduce your price as it's easy to lower it. I think with other TRD's I guess you only have a sample of one or two price wise and you don't know what they sold for. I would guess at only slightly above stock prices really. I might be wrong. Good luck. Moved it to for sale section for you.

He's only in Birmingham. Down the road from you.

But basically nothing else.

I've never heard of them, but you are right they do seem to sell them in Europe. They look to be cheap shite at half the price of decent tyres in the same size. I woudn't touch them with a bargepole. Get something better, I'd say.

Great work. Best thing you've done so far is remove that bloody sticker!

Generally the reason for re-gassing is because people don't use it enough. That's when it will leak out. I've had mine on constantly for five and a half years, 120K miles. It works perfectly still, but I never turn it off. Obviously damage to the condensor or pipework that causes a leak is another matter.

Just let it settle. Give it bit of time to do that and get that geo done as it will be miles out.

Yes of course, you will be more than welcome.

Welcome aboard. An alternative manifold and remap is the best mod to give a good amout more midrange torque and a bit more top end power. Be mindful that some manifolds are better than others in this respect. But, if you do this you will need a resonated exhaust (extra silencer in the mid pipe) or it will be too loud. Fitting coilovers gives a huge handling upgrade over standard, plenty of options there. I wouldn't worry about big brake kits unless you go on track a lot. As for wheels, well, don't go bigger than 18" in diameter. 19's just do not work and they are heavy. As for width, you are somewhat limited by the clearance to the stock struts. Think it is around a 235 on a 9" rim. Do bear in mind that wide wheels and tyres will reduce the playfullness of the chassis, if you enjoy that kind of thing. The most popular option is undoubtedly 18x8-8.5 ET 35-38. But do bear in mind that as soon as you put aftermarket wheels on, you will want to lower it!

Do they? I've found I generally get around 34K miles or so to a set of pads. By that point the discs need changing too.

They've done a few open days before, yes for us lot.

Another option may be a collaboration with one of the tuners like TD as they have loads of parking outside and could do a BBQ etc and rolling road. Just a thought.

It will be the coil pack, not the spark plug. They are £87 for a new one. About a 15 minute job to fit one if you know what you're doing. Next time it comes up (and it will) get the error code. Coil packs do go. I've had all four replaced in 110K miles. Only one of those totally failed, the other three just threw an EML with no other real noticable effect. It won't be dirt in the fuel. That just doesn't happen.

Never heard of one of those. Really don't get why that has been suggested. Surely it's the intake air that needs better cooling. Are you sure the 'report' do you mean an error code, so you had an EML on? It will tell you what it is with an OBD reader. It sounds more likely that a coil pack may have overheated, which they can do. I've honestly found outside temperature makes very little difference. What type of Supercharger do you have fitted. I know the Sprintex is marginal on cooling.

Yes, Flex A's as Mike said will allow easy camber adjustment on the front, but you'll still need offset bushes or adjustable lower arms for the rear to set the camber right. I really wouldn't recommend a wider tyre on the rear unless you love understeer. It won't do the handling balance any good. A square setup is better, i.e., same sizes all round. You really want an offset of 35-38 on an 8" rim. 225's are okay. I tried these on my 17x8 wheels. The trouble is you get more sidewall flex, so I went back to 215/45/17's as it felt much tighter. Up to you of course.

You'll probably find you'll want to lower it about ten seconds after putting the new wheels on. You just seem to notice the arch gap more with different wheels. But you don't have to of course. You can get camber bolts for the front, they are cheap about £25 a set. You can also get offset bushes of adjustable lower arms (more money but easier to adjust) for the rears. Sure having a bit more negative camber looks better, but more particularly so on the front helps eliminate understeer. As you've not changed the suspension though you can of course just bolt on the new wheels and be done. It's up to you of course. In terms of differences due to the bigger wheels, it really depends a lot on weight. If they are significantly heavier than stock wheels then you will notice a decrease in acceleration, braking and turn in. I can easily tell the difference between my lightweight 17's compared to the heavier stock wheels (1.8kg heavier). The trouble is an increase in unsprung mass has much more of an effect than it does on sprung weight as wheels rotate of course. Many say they don't notice the difference and you may be one of those. It just depends how sensitive you are to such things.

I've never tried mine on the road, but it made a huge difference on track and most importantly took the strain of having to use my back to stay in the seat. I think you'll like it.

Price and pics. Not just links please.

Flat foot shifting is a shite idea. I had it on a map (still do) tried it once or twice on track, but couldn't bring myself to do that to my car, so never used it since.

I honestly would expect £87 for the coil pack and one hours labour. Around £120-130 or so.

You need to lift the engine slightly to change the spark plugs. I thought we was talking about coil packs here which you can of course replace in situ?

You don't need to drop the engine to get at them. You can replace them in situ. Sounds like you are going to the wrong place to get your car fixed. I watched Gary change my coil pack last time it failed at a sprint. He did it in 15 minutes and the engine was hot! Replacing OEM pads and discs is a little under £500 fitted from your dealer. It sounds like wherever you are going are hugely taking the piss to be frank.

Donington would be great if it coincides with a track day. That would though, be fortunate indeed!