Lauren

Yep I know about the irony it is a tad annoying. The reality is they like to spanner their ancient AE86's, which I get, but not recognising the GT is a real shame and not right I know about Japan, I went to 86 Style for 8-6 day at Fuji Speedway in 2014! A couple of thousand GT86's and about 500 AE86's! But I'm definitely up for having something inclusive for our cars, just because the AE lot aren't interested doesn't mean we should be exluded. It's more a question of where really. I reckon it will be worth contacting Toyota UK see if they are interested.

You may be better off checking everything with an OEM bonnet. Those Seibon bonnets never seem to fit very well. Just about every one I've seen has a poor fit on one side.

+2 as the steel wheel nuts last really well if air guns are used. Also Rays wheels, Rays nuts. I've had these on my car for four years now.

Yeah 86 is always the 8th August due to the Japanese using the American date format. I did attend 86 day which is done as a retro gathering at Driftworks. I have a lot of old friends from my time with the AE86 which goes back well over a decade. I have asked Chay who organises it about including the GT's as well, but they are more interested in the older cars, so if we wanted to do something it would need to be on our own by the looks of it. To be fair to Chay there isn't really enough room to take on a whole load of GT86's at Driftworks HQ as there were already 60 odd cars there, though they accept any old Toyota that's 80's or previous it seems, which is a tad ironic. But there you go. Whilst we could do it on the 8th June this is not in alignment with the rest of the world and would not be recognised as such. I would say it's better to keep it on the 6th Augut or as near thereabouts which obviously depends on where it falls to the next nearest weekend.

I can't work out what was particularly difficult about this bit. It was fiddly, but I just undid the nut that holds the rear seat belt reel in place, lowered it and put the harness mount over the top of it. Pretty sure I just used a ratchet with a long extension to do all the work. That there was two of us probably helped a bit.

I think you'll find it much the same as the Honda in that respect.

I really wouldnt be put off by those issues. Providing you buy a car that has been properly maintained, about the only issue you are going to experience really is the coil pack one. I would not count that as a major issue. You will rarely even notice a coil pack going apart from the EML coming on. They cost £87 for a new one and if you've still got warranty that shouldn't be a problem to get it replaced. I have done 119K miles in five and a half years. I stick to the service schedule, I am never late with this. I have gone through all four coil packs in that time. I had a slight oil leak on the cam plate fixed under warranty at around 60K miles. I've had a CV joint go and replaced under warranty, though that is probably caused by lowering. My under bonnet strip is rusty, but I don't really care about that. Cheap to replace anyway. Engine failures are rare and as everyone else has said, relate more to cars with forced induction which is always going to be a lottery on a car that was designed to be NA. Also there are a lot of numpties out there who dont get their cars serviced on time, don't use OEM oil and don't let their car warm up properly before booting it. My experience of having one of the highest mileage cars in the UK that has included four years of sprinting, track days from when it was run in and a tuned engine with remap, manifold and all that, is that they are hardy cars indeed, providing you look after them. I would still think nothing of driving to Italy to mine with the mileage it has, which I have done twice already. Last year I drove right out to the Harz region of Germany at high speed in places on the autobahn. No problem. I use my car every day, it has never let me down.

It's always the coil pack, pretty much never the plugs. If you have an OBD reader plug it in and I'll bet it will say it's a coil pack. It doesn't usually cause a misfire though. I've had all four replaced and it was only the last one which went at 110K that totally failed so it was running on three cylinders. All the other ones I didn't notice any difference save for the EML coming on.

It's clearly not worth going with an extended warranty with that dealer from what you say. YMMV varies of course. I would say that given that the only real thing that seems to consistently go wrong is the coil packs, there is generally very little else that breaks. If you have a remap as well, you are voiding the warraty on the engine internals. I looked at the extended warranty and was going to go for it, but I had done 100K miles, which they will not cover on extended warranty, so I had no options there. So far I've had my final coil pack replaced. I'm nearly at 120K miles now.

Yep.

Coil packs are around £87. I replaced one of mine out of warranty a few months ago. Extending the warranty with a TD manifold and remap would not affect the warranty on other parts, engine internals excepted, though coil packs would probably be covered. But I'd check that as it's the most common thing to fail. Be aware that you cannot have an extended warranty over 100K miles so if you are anywhere near that it won't be worth doing.

Ah I know Warrington, just finished working there! Most seem to go for PS4's. I'm still running Yoko Advan V105's, which I really like. You can go for uprated pads of which there are a number to choose from. I went for a BBK, with AP 4pots and 330mm discs up front. Depends how much you are going to be on track really. Uprated pads will suffice if you don't murder them

I think you really need to go somewhere else. Unfortunately I don't know anywhere in the South West. Do the front toe parallel. Go for 2.5 deg neg camber on the front if you can and around .15-2 degrees negative on the rear. Get the toe in on the rear to an 1/8th-1/4 of a degree. That will work well for a serious fast road setup and also do track well too. It's a bit more of a track setup, but I have this setup which I also do stupid amounts of miles on the road. Just a tiny amount of toe in on the rear really. I have, 0.6 and 0.7 toe in per side on the rear. Tyre wear is even. Or put a bit less camber and a bit more toe in at the rear to get a safer feeling handling setup. Stick it about 0.12 per side and make sure they get it equal. It's not that hard with such precision equipment. I used to do it with lights and mirrors! About the middle between mine and stock will make it easier handling with more understeer.

Welcome aboard. Whereabouts in the NW are you? I'm in Heald Green, about two miles from the airport. Try some of our insurers lised in the insurers section as they offer discounts for club members. Plenty of us do track stuff and there is the sprint series which is popular too. Next one is Anglesey on the 19th August if you fancy popping over.

I go for 215's on my 8" wide wheels. I tried 225's but felt there was too much sidewall flex with the increase in profile height.

What I really don't understand is why you'd need to touch the brake lines at all when just changing pads. Or maybe use a better mechanic?

You can get them in other colours thankfully. That colour is just unique to that model.

Well, you've only had it posted up for 4 days, that isn't very long.

There's loads of good restaurants in Warrington town centre. It's about 3 miles from TD. Also there's Golden Square if you want to go shopping. It's a good sized town with plenty of stuff in the town centre. @MartinT The Trafford Centre is 20 odd miles away, so not particularly close.

I can't remember. I'd have to measure it.

@Carver do you mean what spring rates I use? 5/6kg. Or something else?

Welcome aboard. I can see you've been busy with modifying. Interesting on the BBK , as I run a similar setup with the same calipers, but run 330mm discs which still fit under my 17's. Your discs look like they are stock sizes. Those pads seem noisy! I also run DS2500's, though mine are pretty quiet. Any plans for an exhaust or exhaust manifold? The manifold reaps the biggest gains along with a remap. Also I'm guessing suspension is on the list, that makes a big difference also. Also you could shorten the final drive on the auto to bring it closer to the manual which will aid acceleration.

@Benjie_2 it shouldn't use any more oil than any other car. YMMV of course. Mine didn't use any at all between services till 100K miles. It now seems to use a small amount. Maybe 200ml every 10K miles. So a slight top up between services. So, no it doesn't use a lot of oil. I've no idea what 'engine restorer' is, but general consensus would be to avoid like the plague as it's probably something akin to Slick 50 or similar. It's obviously a good idea with any car to regularly check the oil levels. Some use more than others of course, normally indicative of how it is was run in. Genuine parts aren't going to be any cheaper than from Toyota dealers really, seeing as they sell them. You may get some parts cheaper from Toyota dealers abroad, but it depends on the exchange rate of course. Service parts are not particularly expensive anyway.

They don't really care about the spare bulbs thing anymore, don't worry about that. I've not bothered with spare bulb kits for years in all honesty. I take a Hi Vis jacket. That you have the warning triangle as well is good. Also they gave up on the alcohol tester a few years ago too, so you don't need that anymore.

The plugs need changing ever 60K miles or 6 years if less. Dealer price is around £500 for a 60K service. The plugs aren't particularly expensive but they need to lift the engine slightly which means that it's a lot more about the labour cost than the parts. Toyota is your best option for parts for servicing.