Lauren

You can, but my point being is that a track day is not the place to set a fast lap time.

I do it for the competition, rather than getting loads of track time. The fun is in that, having the competition and seeing how you rate against your competitors. Winning is what counts of course. Having the track to yourself makes a big difference and you have to get your focus on. Timing on track days is of course not allowed as it's non-competitive.

If you want to see if you're quick at Blyton why not do the TSS round there?

I had an accident in October 2014, it was my fault. Yet I've had I reckon over 300 calls since then, I still get them now asking if I've claimed compensation. I've decided I will no longer talk to these peope and end the call and block their number. It is driving me mad. As soon as they realise you aren't going for it, they hang up. No apology nothing.

A decent manifold and remap are the best way forward. Tuning Developments NA package ticks all the boxes. Lots of us have it. You can turn the torque dip into a torque peak but you have to have the manifold along with a remap.

If you get it repaired properly which may take more than a smart repair as in my case, then it's fine. You'd never know my door had been repaired looking at it. The point of the extra expense was to get it skimmed and fix all the other small car park dents in the door of which there were several. I was having the whole side of my car resprayed anyway as some corrective work, so I had no problems with matching it.

Well it's up to you, but I'd never have thought of changing the door over getting that repaired. I honestly just would not consider that. If it's going to get expensive surely it can go through your neighbour's insurance? I don't see why colour should vary really if you do put on a secondhand door, so that should be do able providing you can find one easily enough. Sorry not much help, I know!

Well, I guess the trouble is with having just the door repsrayed is always going to be difficult to match. Though I'm not sure there is such a thing as a perfect colour match with white pearlescent in all honesty, but as long as it's good enough it's all you can do. I don't think it will make any difference whatsoever whether you get your existing door repaired (preferable option) or put on another door, the issues of matching the paint will still be the same. You could try a smart repair first, see if that sorts it as there is no respraying involved then. I tried it on mine but apparently it wasn't perfect so the bodyshop had to skim it to get it right which then cost me extra of course. It's up to your neighbour whether they can cover the bill or put it through their insurance I guess, but obviously you deserve a decent repair .

It's just how it goes. It's rare that it happens but it is possible, so it's just down to probability nothing else.

It should be repairable. I had similar last year, same colour etc. Fortunately that side of my car was being resprayed under warranty so it only cost me £500 as an extra as whoever dented my door didn't bother to tell me. Interestingly if I wasn't already having the whole side of the car resprayed Toyota said that they would have quoted £1750 to fix it.

Changing your final drive would massively help as the gearing is intergalactic on the auto.

No it isn't more hysteria, but it depends where you live. Winter tyres aren't worth it in the mild and wet North West of England where I live. It'll be cold for four of five days from tomorrow, but it never snows to any degree where I live.

I suppose what I'm saying is that with coilovers, with pillowball top mounts and solid mounts on the rear, rose jointed SPL lower arms and polybushes throughout, the car is fine as a daily driver. I've done 111K miles in it after all. I didn't notice an increase in noise or vibrations etc as such after fitting the SPL lower arms and polybushes at 100K miles.

It's not a problem in the UK where I live, which is obviously all I'm worried about. I've not noticed any difference with NVH with these arms fitted at all. Though it was noisy enough anyway before. I think the biggest increase was from the pillowball mounts on the front coilovers. My SPL arms have been through a winter, will have to see how they go in terms of wear on the rose joints.

They look like a really nice bit of kit, much like the SPL ones I have which have all the adjustments you mention and two levels of it, which may compensate for lowering, thinking about it. Be interesting to see how you find it. The difference I felt was slightly interfered with by having the whole car poly bushed at the same time, though I can report that the rear end is very sharp indeed with no slop. Getting into Richard's 2017 demonstrator his car with 5K miles on the clock feels a lot less sharp than my car did in comparison.

I would say if you know how to balance the chassis, 200bhp or thereabouts is enough. If you know how to carry the speed into the corner, you won't be slow out of the corner. If you're struggling with this, get some tuition. I've driven a an AVO turbo on track. Yes it was faster down the straight but it's no faster really through the corner, it's balance and how you set the car up for the corner that matters here and power makes less of a difference. Getting the car setup well and knowing how to use it is key. What a lot of people do is try and compensate for this by adding more power in the form of forced induction, but the irony is that those that do this tend not to really track their cars. A look at the amount of entries in the forced induction class for the TSS will tell you all you need to know here. Just to make it more ironic when we did have a few in the FI class we beat them in the N1S class anyway and often by quite a margin. It's more about the drive than the car on track. This news article just tells you that a turbo option is not going to happen if it tells you anything at all. If you need a supercharger or turbo look to aftermarket I say, that is what it's for. Lots of well proven options.

You may want to put the mileage up.

Well, yes, it's less precise as you have the take of the slack in the sidewall now it's bigger than it was compared to a 215. I didn't like how it affected precision. Though pulling the tyre a bit with an inch wider rim and the stock tyre made it more precise than stock. It does make it more reactive though, so it may depend on how sharp you want your car to feel.

No worries, I noticed it as more noticable an issue on track. Some aren't bothered by it though.

The only one thing I would say having tried this setup myself with a ET of 38 is that going a size wider on the tyre leads to a corresponding increase in sidewall profile. This resulted in too much sidewall flex for me. So I went for stock sizes on an 8" wheel which I'm very happy with as it removes the sidewall flex and have kept ever since.

You'll need to post it up here as those of who aren't members cannot see events on that forum.

If you've been trying to sort it for this long, I'd give up and take it to Abbey.

Sure. But if you go to Japan you'll see they fit even smaller lower capacity batteries. What can you do eh? I hired a GT86 for 6 days and they had to change the battery on that!

If it's any help I got three years and 70K miles out of my original battery, it was fine. So it's not like there is a fault, it's just a bit weak for the car, though it's not really a problem if you drive your car daily and don't leave it sitting for weeks on end. When it went I got the 65Ah one put in under warranty. So they aren't going to change it if it's working fine, only if or perhaps when it fails in the future.

I'm not aware of any in Northern Ireland. If you get a ferry over, Tuning Developments is only 20 minutes from Liverpool. Fensport do remote maps, so it is possible. Best bet is to talk to Adrian if you want to go that route.