Lauren

Ah I see. I'm running their manifold, though with a Milltek overpipe and then their cat delete and resonated system. Had no problems, so I guess it must be something affected or damaged as nobody else reports this problem AFAIK. You may get more vibration from fitting stiffer engine mounts that'd be my worry. I find four or five lap sessions with a cool down lap enough for my concentration. It's tiring driving on track and I get very focused. Years ago when I was doing 20 minute races it used to feel like an age when I got near the end! Once your mouth starts going dry, that's the time to come in I reckon. I generally find that those who do long stints don't drive as hard. But different folks and all that.

Hmm, are you running an odd overripe? I've never had this problem. I measured oil temps round Donington on a day that was very hot in July 2013. It was 35C. Temps went to about 129C after three laps. So not really any higher. It did seem to stabilise around this temperature I noticed. But yes, see the point for longer sessions. I was easing off to cool it a bit. I can see the point of an oil cooler though modern oils are better at handling high temperatures than oil of old. If you want to increase engine responsiveness then fitter a lighter flywheel. When you're at higher speeds on track these things make less of a difference really.

The problem is, having front foglights on just blinds oncoming traffic and does nothing to help you see really. I would say you make the problem worse for oncoming traffic if you have fitted even brighter foglights.

You don't need an oil cooling unless you like doing long sessions on track. Nothing wrong with stock engine mounts. Brake ducts may help a little but I have come to the conclusion that the only way to have absolutely consistent and good braking is to fit AP four pots or similar to the front. Whatever you do to stock brakes they will fade after a few laps of hard braking. They just about cope is what I found. Lightweight pullies are just bling. The crank ones in aftermarket pullies don't have a harmonic damper. Whilst many report no problems with this, you have to ask yourself why Toyota and Subaru fitted them in the first place.

He'd be way, way better off getting it all done at TD. They fitted loads of these now and are well used to fitting and tuning the parts they supply. It's only half an hour's drive from Liverpool to Warrington.

I cannot see how changing the fog light bulbs for LED's could have any effect whatsoever. Maybe put them back to stock? You never use foglights anyway IME. Reckon I've used them about three or four times in five years.

It's a shame you weren't about last weekend, we were at Botany Bay Chorley for a meet. If you want to have a coffee I can happily talk you through all the upsides and downsides to the car. I've done over 110K in mine from new and have some knowledge. The good news is you have the best Toyota dealer for GT86's in the UK in RRG Macclesfield. I live near Manchester Airport. Give me a shout if I can help.

It's no help, but I've honestly never heard of this problem with these cars.

Popped down to RRG first thing and took Gary for a ride. I was told by Gary no sideways and that he wasn't a good passenger. So we trundled up the Silk Road so he could hear the whining. Richard had money on it being a wheel bearing. We came back on the old Macc Road which involved a greasy roundabout. Greasier than I was expecting. Sorry Gary! Gary got it up on a four post lift and stuck 'young-un' in the car, so they could get it running and listen for noises. Richard gave me a shout and I was able to hear the noise the nearside rear wheel bearing was making. A good way to do it, I thought! Wheel bearing has been ordered and car will be booked in for a week's time. There was no play in the bearing, it's just noisy. Excellent service at RRG as always and we had a bit of a laugh with my antics with Gary, well Richard thought it was funny.

I personally think putting a wide bodykit like the Rocket Bunny replicas that people do drastically reduces the amount of people who would want to buy it as to get it to look right generally means it's going to be pretty low and fairly impractical. It takes it away from the whole daily driver kind of thing and really I think makes it only appeal to those who want a show car rather than a car that they will enjoy driving hard. It then becomes all about the show rather than the go. Getting these replica kits to fit right generally seems to involve a whole load of fettling and of course once you've hacked away at the wheel arches there is no goin back. So I would say it makes it harder to sell on.

It will be louder than stock, but how much I don't know. But basically a manifold, no cats and a non-res system will be pretty loud. It will likely cause you problems with getting on track if that's what you want to do. Mike reckons that the TD resonated system is quieter than the equivalent Milltek. But of course when you lose the cats and stick a TD manifold in there the loudness will increase so its about balancing it out. Mine sounds lovely, it's loud enough, but not too loud and I can go on track without worry.

Only go for a non-res if you definitely are not going to go for a manifold later.

Sounds like you've bought an exhaust that is too loud. Either get a silencer welded in or change it. Not much else you can do.

If it's any help, I run a TD EL manifold, with a resonated system and no cats. Static noise test at 5500rpm was 94Db last Saturday. That's the loudest reading I've had. Obviously it easily passes for all track except Bedford (which I'm not bothered about) and Thruxton which is a shame.

Well it's more noticable at higher speeds, so yes. Guessing bearing. Am taking it to RRG first thing Friday to get it checked out.

No.

Price on here please, Chris. We're not a link to eBay.

There is nothing terribly wrong with spacers, though I wouldn't use them personally. If you like the stock wheels (and not many do) then that's cool. You could of course get aftermarket wheels with a lower offset and they will fill the arches better. I run 17x8 with ET38 on stock tyre sizes on a lowered car and it works pretty well. Personal preference and all that.

Coolant should be between low and full. As Dan said it will expect when hot, so you can expect to see it to give a higher reading when the engine is hot. When cold it shouldn't be under the low mark.

Phew, I did manage to wash my car this morning. Wasn't going to but it was in such a mess after doing 160 miles round Oulton yesterday in the wet! See the rest of you there.

Here's a meet I've been to a few times before, it's the local Jap2Jap meet in their usual place at Botany Bay in Chorley Lancashire. Just a bit north of Manchester there is usually a good mix of cars and I have a few old friends from my time with MR2s back in the day who attend. Going to aim for 11ish to get there. https://www.facebook.com/events/157925724810159/ Canal Mill, Botany Brow, Chorley PR6 9AF Sorry for short notice but this could be a regular meet if people are up for it. 1. Lauren 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Please note I've changed the time to 1pm as it says on the FB page. See you there and enjoy a lie in.

Yes, good point. I've been there a few times before, we normally got there a bit earlier than that. May leave at 12pm then. Ben, that's cool. I will have a dirty car as I'm off to Oulton Park tomorrow. Can't be helped really!

We had this problem with the TSS sunstrips. Kev had to fit smaller wipers to fit it on. I don't think anyone else (myself included) was prepared to do that.

I don't know, but the OP doesn't seem to have FI and neither do I, so I didn't think it was relevant. Also a turbo using the same oil supply would likely have more of an effect on oil temperature than a supercharger that does not, but that's another discussion surely?