Lauren

Steel ones last much better, which is is why I went for them. Hmm, I prefer the short ones, but I have little interest in form, more functionality. I think the term 'lug' is a pointless Americanism, they are just wheel nuts. I'm pretty sure Rays do a variety of wheel nuts though and probably do longer ones too. I do think that black works well given you've got a grey car and everything else is grey or black so continuity and all that. A brighter colour is going to stand out.

You can just blank it off. Though the OP has a new intake hose which replaces the original including the take off for the sound generator.

No.

Looks good. Think the Rays wheel nuts are fine. I've got the same ones on mine if they are the steel ones?

Cool. Interesting you've got some titanium wrap around your coolant hose. Mine doesn't have that.

It's weird that difference in the wheelbase side to side. I suppose we don't often see this measured as the print outs I get don't show that. It's a tiny amount though with the diagrams hugely exaggerating that. I would say though given that at this time of year the roads are often fairly greasy and the road temperature will be low, the car is always more lively at the rear than you will experience in the summer. Only tonight coming across a roundabout and accelerating (not hard) in second gear I went a bit sideways, but I guess I'm just used to it. No problem, but it's something that happens with greater frequency than it will in a few months time. So maybe it's just a case of allowing for this, which is what I do. I guess you don't know the full history of your car and who knows whether it's had a whack somewhere that has ever so slightly moved one or some of the mounting points for the suspension, but I guess you'll never know.

Yeah, it's a bit lively for sprints with lots of oversteer which I had on all the subsequent sprints I did. Worked better on a track day though where I guess you get a bit more heat into everything. Seemed nice at Oulton last time out, being pretty neutral.

Well, sussed mine. I was wrong and I think there was a part of me that didn't believe I could be driving around with half a degree of toe out. So there you go. Interestingly when I got the car back from RRG, I had new rear tyres on, plus the polybushes and SPA lower arms, I remember thinking it's a bit lively at the rear end, but put it down to the new tyres. Then I noticed that in Sport mode it was activating the stability control a fair bit earlier on my test bends round the airport, so I turned everything off. Well that sorted it. I've done two trackdays and three sprints in it with 30 seconds of toe out in total. I think the thing for me is that I just compensate for what the car is doing and then I forget I'm compensating. This is a good thing, then it's also a bad thing as I will just adjust my driving to how a car handles and once I've done that, I don't have to think about it. I've had a chat with Richard and whilst I've realised I've got toe out when somehow I had it in my head I had toe in, I guess I'm just used to it now, so I'm not sure whether to bother changing it!

Hmm, maybe I do have toe out going on! This is a previous setup with the toe going the other way at the rear! Old Geo setup 2015 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr

Well if that is the case then I'd have a quarter of a degree toe out on mine and half a degree in total! The trouble is my car is more stable than it was before. The problem we had was that the track rods were not long enough, which then gave more toe in as a result. If you look at the rear suspension the track rod is in front of the wishbones and so this then makes sense in that respect in that they weren't long enough as the shorter track rods relative to the new LCA's mean that I can't get quite the toe where I want it. How confusing! Just found this as an example:

I didn't use google, I used to set up geommetry on Elises and Exiges many, many years ago. Google seems to make it a tad confusing. Just to add, instability at the rear is caused by toe out, not toe in.

- = toe in + = toe out. He's got toe out on the rear. Works the same as camber i.e., - = negative camber + = positive camber.

£80 inc VAT. Good enough deal.

Well, there's only one way to find out! I'd honestly say just get your geo sorted as it sounds like it's a liability at the moment, then sleep on it and see what you want to do in terms of further mods like coilovers. Mine is extensively modified when it comes to suspension but I've done it one step at a time (well sort of!).

The before was after it had a fully polybush kit and SPA rear lower arms fitted. I never drove it like that, it's just how it was before they set it up, so the car never went on the road like that! Honestly my setup doesn't oversteer quite like I hope it would, but it's a very fast neutral setup, which most would prefer. I would like 0.05 on the rear toe in really, maybe 0.10 would be the sweet spot, but I'd need to fit aftermarket longer track rod ends to achieve this. I am a trail braking queen, but I like to really rotate the rear and I absolutely loathe any understeer at all. I'm happy with the car being really pointy and a bit loose at the rear. As it is at the moment it doesn't understeer at all and is very pointy, but it's still pretty stable at the rear. In the wet it's a bit more lively but you'd expect that. Toe and thrust angle is far more critical to get equalised than camber is. Castor is even less relevant, stock settings are fine for that. If you want to get 2 degrees of negative camber at the front you'll need coilovers or pillowball top mounts (which are what coilovers tend to have of course). Adjustable rear lower arms and longer track rod ends are needed for the rear. If that's what you want to do. But honestly, getting the car square and getting some toe in on the rear will basically sort your problems, so there is no need to spend any money to make an appreciable difference.

If I'm reading it right and it's a bloody nightmare the 'actual', which I guess is what you actually have after they've done it means you've got toe out on the rear and it's not even equalised. Take it somewhere else next time.

Here's mine: 7 July 2017 Geo setup GT86 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr

Just put more toe in at the rear. That'll make it more stable. 0.15 seconds toe in at the rear is slightly more than the book states but it's what my car has due to the LCA being fitted with stock track ends. It makes it neutral even at high speeds in the dry.

I've run Yoko V105s for ever now. Must be on my fourth set. I run stock sizes. Tried 225's but felt it interfered with the grip/handling balance so went back to 215's. For me they provide the perfect balance of grip and handling and work well in all conditions. I haven't tried PS4's and apaprently they offer more grip. I don't want more grip, I like the balance as it is. Richard at RRG gets the Yokos for a good price too which is a bonus. I tried Contisport Contact 5's on the rear, but found that though they are nicely progressive (no more so than the Yokos), their lateral grip wasn't as good. They had better grip off the line though, which is probably why some like them. Sidewall not quite stiff enough too. The tip with the Yoko V105s is to go for the extra load option to get a stiffer sidewall.

Like it. Hope you like the sharper handling of the 5kg springs up front. You now have the 'Lauren spring rate'. Less understeer (well pretty much none at all) I find.

Well if you look at the poverty spec GT86 in Japan you can see that the BRZ uses the lesser dials, these are apparent in the water/fuel guages. The back lighting is different on the rev counter on the GT86 and the length of the needles are longer on the fuel/water gauges. It is a cheaper spec instrument panel that is used on the BRZ.

An SE Lux is a BRZ. All GT86's (bar the 27 odd Primo versions) had this spec, though heated seats with leather/alcantara or full leather were options. It's worth having the leather/alcantara option btw. All GT86's had bluetooth and a better head unit than the BRZ. Check out the differences in dash as well as the BRZ had a more poverty spec instrumentation panel compared to the GT86.

Milltek exhausts are great until they crack, which they do. For that reason don't get one. Never heard of this brand, so wouldn't touch it. Cobra is a cheapish option. Some love them, it's not one I like, but personal preference and all that. Always better to pick a tried and tested exhaust of which there are a number on here. Also worth remembering if you do want to change the manifold in future get a resonated catback as it will be too loud with a non-resonated exhaust if you go for a manifold at a later date. I went through four Milltek exhausts due to cracking. I now run a TD resonated system which is made by JP Exhausts whose quality is second to none.

This is a trade sale. I don't understand why you posted the ad here?

Hi Nails. Welcome. Yes of course you need to pick a side. Only joking! We do far more events because we run the club as a non-profit limited company so all the money we receive goes into events and for stuff for the members. We do invite the other club to our events of course. We do all the big events like Japfest 1&2, JAE etc and these are definitely events to put in your calendar. So if you want to get into the social side of things this is definitely the place to be. Where are you based?