Lauren

You are most definitely in trouble, Bob! I thought we might see you again in the TSS next year.

I can't vouch for stock rims, but there is simply tons of room around the diameter and also from the spokes on my wheels which are 17x8. I didn't realise the involvement that you and Will had. Cool stuff.

Welcome aboard. It is very hard to resist modifying. May as well give in then. What's first on the list?

Well, we'll see at the TSS next year as I'm very consistent with time, so it will be easy to note any differences. I think it will help a bit at the TSS, though my primary reason was so I could enjoy the car more at track days and hopefully have more consistent and longer lasting brakes after a few laps. I would like to go back to Spa again where I think it will really pay dividends. It is nice to simply have better brakes on the road though. They feel absolutely lovely, I must say. I would say tyres, suspension, brakes, NA Tuning. However, what is clear is that I have a very well sorted car indeed now. Years of thinking of what to do rather than just throwing mods at it are paying off. Richard says it's the best GT86 he's driven and he's driven a few.

Thank you Will and Ade. Love you long time. But in all seriousness thanks for the link to Reyland, it just made it that much more affordable.

It's been a few months since the last update, but my latest addition to my car is a set of AP Racing 4 Pot calipers with 330mm grooved discs. How this came about was in part due to a recent track day I did at Oulton Park. Whilst attempting the 'Island bend 100mph challenge', it became brutally apparent that stopping in time for Shell Oils Hairpin was a growing concern. I've been running stock brakes with Project Mu HC800 pads. These are actually pretty good, having a really nice level of feel to them, but I was murdering them on track. Now, I'm not the last of the late brakers, but I really like to trail brake which requires a consistent and good feel from the brakes and they do actually need to work. I was finding that after two or three laps they were really struggling and well, not sounding that good. All said and done I felt I was going over the limit for what was achievable with a stock setup. I admit there was big part of me thinking just how good the car would be if I had brakes that could take a bit more heat and provide a greater level of consistency whilst on the track. I'd also noted when sprinting that I felt like I was just killing the brakes. Whilst it's only one flyer of a lap, you tend to brake later to try and save a few hundredths of a second absolutely anywhere you can. So, I went away and had a think about it. The only thing really that was putting me off, was the price. They seemed to come out at £2K+ which is a lot of money. I thought about the cheaper alternatives, like K-Sport with their seemingly over engineered 8 pot setup. Willwood also do a 4 Pot setup for around £1K. But again whilst I've heard nothing bad about Willwood, racing teams don't tend to use them. I didn't consider shite like D2 and all that, but still I was put off by K-Sport being a sub-premium brand and well it came down to the AP's and Brembos but they were even more expensive. It was only after posing the question to the forum that got the link to Reyland Motors who did an AP 4 pot setup with their supplied discs. This brought the price down to a far more appealing £1500. Still a lot of money and yes it is. But my thinking with my car is that I'm careful about how I modify it and when I do it, I only want to do it once. I don't want to mess around endlessly swopping parts and inevitably wasting money in the process. I admit, though, I'm quite good at talking myself into stuff. There were a few options on the Reyland site, see; http://www.reyland.co.uk/subaru-impreza/ what with for another £250 you can have AP discs to really go for it, or for £150 you can having floating discs which expand more freely than a fixed disc to the bell. But having considered my usage, I felt that it was key to get the AP 4 pots and well I can always upgrade to a floating disc setup or go full AP on the discs in the future should I wish. Something to note, you have to call Reyland using a phone, you can't order online, so it was slightly unsettling to hand over £1500 on my card with no email confirmation or anything! It's what we used to do, but it's feels odd after years of just clicking the mouse and getting your order details instantly. I naturally chose Toyota RRG Macclesfield to do the work and I knew the Master himself, Gary would be doing the work and I knew he'd really enjoy doing it. Stuff like this matters. Here's what the calipers looked like out of the box: Image 17-11-2017 at 22.02 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr Discs wrapped up: IMG_5049 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr The kit came with braided brake lines, all bolts needed, CNC aluminium mounting bracket to fit the calipers to the hubs and Ferodo DS 2500 pads which are a street/track type pad: IMG_5049 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr Gary got on with the install. Richard commented that one of the mounting brackets didn't have it's thread tapped properly. No problem though, Gary got out his tap and die and sorted it. It's for reasons like this I use RRG Macc. Gary sent me pics on Facebook of progress: 23621988_1774765709209175_2878800822716104916_n by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr Here's the caliper mounted with the disc. Looking good. I went for black calipers as they were cheaper than red and wouldn't clash with my red wheels: 23621988_1774765709209175_2878800822716104916_n by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr Setup on the car when I picked it up. Note the colour of the discs. IMG_5049 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr Richard kindly lent me his 2017 Clubsport GT86. It hasn't been leant to anyone else before which was noted when they were doing the loan car agreement! It's interesting to drive the newer version in stock form to compare to mine. IMG_5049 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr I was really interested to what the car felt like on the drive home, but it was in rush hour traffic, so no heavy braking at all. It felt good, pedal pressure is a little reduced, though I was recalibrating myself after driving the demonstrator which felt different from my brakes did and were a bit more grabby on initial bite than my previous Project Mu's. I decided to after rush hour had subsided to bed the brakes in. I took the car out on a national speed limit dual carriageway and started to heat the brakes by braking firmly at around 60mph and repeated this around 15 times. The instructions say to use 50% of the braking power and repeat 25-30 times. Seems like quite a lot. I then moved onto increasing my speed and braking harder and harder another 20 times or so. It's definitely not an efficient way to drive! I did this until I could smell the brakes and then I knew I was done. The brakes felt a bit glassy when I started but I could really feel them starting to bite greatly improving the stopping of the car once I'd done 20 runs or so. I stopped at the local Shell and as you can see the discs have gone a bit blue. This shows that the pad material has transferred to the disc and increases the friction. IMG_5057 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr I've driven the car for work today covering about 50 miles which is pretty average for a day. No real hard braking. I've noticed that initial bite when cold is better than the Project Mu's, but probably similar to what the demonstrator GT86 I had felt like. Except the progression was better which made it very easy to modulate. I'm really interested in how much feel I will get out when on the track and how repeatable it will be. Certainly in town driving there is no fuss, the brakes work well but just feel a bit 'stronger' than stock brakes. The real test will come when I'm out on track at Oulton Park on the 9th December. I am rather looking forward to it.

Come up north for a night, we'll all go out for a curry. That and the TD NA package is highly recommended!

Just a thought but considering how few kouki BRZ's there are out there, your market is going to be incredibly small. You'd also need to sign up as a trader on here to sell.

It's just for the alarm and you can do a few things like programme it to lock the doors and stuff when you start the car. You should have received a supplement with it that comes with the manual.

It will fit. Think the paint code is different, but not sure.

I honestly wouldn't bother if it's not genuine parts. I don't do fake parts on my car. So I'd much rather go without than fitting something that is a copy of something else. Obviously that's just me though, people can and do what they like to their cars. I'll never approve though.

But you would know, wouldn't you? Must admit, got my TRD Aero Fins as an Xmas pressie. But I wouldnt' fit stick on ones or fake ones. Do it once....

Why oh why do people fit such shite?

Really?

I don't know of any that stick over the stock ones. For the TRD ones you certainly remove the OEM ones then fit the TRD aero fins. I've had the TRD fins for four years now. Have the stock ones sitting in a box at home somewhere.

Welcome aboard. There's plenty of info on here and I hope you find it useful. A number of us already had the TD setup some with EL manifolds and some with UEL. I reckon as soon as you change the wheels you'll want to lower it.

It's only the over pipe. Plenty of people will want a catback system and you have the decat pipe as well. i wouldn't really worry about selling them as a job lot. If you can sell the manifold with the overpipe, then I don't see why anyone would be put off by that. Up to you of course.

To be fair, you really won't know until you get out on track. About the only time I've experienced fade on the road was on some Alpine descents, which simply don't occur in the UK.

The decat pipe is just resonated, there is no cat in it, that would defeat the point of it. I know because I have one sat in my shed.

That's the problem, getting Rays in 8" widths, they don't seem to do them anymore. Have a look here, just click on 'English'. http://rayswheels.co.jp

Agree about the pads. Whilst you could swop track pads in like Carbotechs you won't like them on the road. As you probably know I've opted to take the plunge. £1500 isn't too bad for the base option from Reyland with AP Racing 4 pots. I went for black too, it's cheaper. Is 1.1 degrees negative camber all you can get on the fronts? I'd say 2 degrees is better. But I guess you have stock topmounts with the Ohlins.

Welcome aboard.

Are you sure that's a resonated Milltek? Can't see any silencers in the system? Looks like non-res to me.

I would if I didn't like the way my car handles just as it is. The last thing I'm going to do really is buy wheels in sizes I don't want. If it ain't broke, I don't fix it.

It's not the same as 17x8 though is it?