Lauren

I only use V Power, nothing else.

Cool, see you guys in the morning.

You can guarrantee it means they are shite. Seriously change all four. Yoko Advan V105's or PS4s as a lot are using now. Don't worry about revving the engine as long as it's warm. Pressing the TC button once, disables traction control until 50km/h, then it will come back on again automatically. You can press the VSC button once to put it in Sport mode, which allows a little more slip and relaxes the stability control slightly. Three seconds to turn everything off except EBD, but don't worry about the pedal dance thing. Think about getting some tuition for RWD, plenty rave about the CAT driver training courses, worth doing if you haven't driven RWD before I would say.

Pictures! When will you follow the rules?

TRD Engine start/stop button and a smaller 350mm steering wheel. Must admit, not really one for bling.

That's Rob talking about the south. Things are much better oop north!

Sorry to hear you are selling, that did suprise me! I've moved your post to parts for sale. Can you please post up pics and prices. Cheers.

Ringlands refer to the area where the piston rings sit on the pistons. Any damage here means the piston rings won't seal and well, it's terminal. I've not heard of this on the GT86. Guess you're talking about this:

I was going to say about the rule I made up about speaking bloody English on the forums. We are not American. America is not the world!

I've had my car 4.5 years and driven 104K miles in it. I've not noticed a blind spot that is different to any other car I've driven really. The dash lighting is orange, though white on the speedo stuff on the newer model. It's easy on the eye. I once tried blue lighting on the dash on an old car I had. It was really harsh on the eye I found. There are loads of options when it comes to wheels but of course as soon as you put wheels on you'll then want to lower it. There are a good number of suspension options that are well tested that will not ruin the ride quality. The head unit is a pretty standard Toyota affair. You should get a manual with it when you get the car of course. There's still no reversing camera option, but plenty have fitted an afterkmarket setup to have a reversing camera which is not difficult to to do. The chassis is already pretty stiff. I've still yet to be convinced that strut braces and the like are worth fitting. The kouki model has further chassis reinforcements over the zenki model.

Just a thought, do Cusco do their own springs to go with it? Also are they height adjustable, it's just they don't look it. I'm guessing it's the Whiteline springs that lowered it. Manufacturers of coilovers will normally do springs to match their dampers.

Could be up for that, Neal.

I'd honestly say drive the car stock for a bit, get a feel for it, including the tyres. It gives you a benchmark then. I did go for an exhust and induction kit at the point of ordering the car I admit and I did change the pretty bad stock audio system a month in. The rest though I left for a time so I could ponder what was worth doing and what wasn't. I've had my car 4.5 years and 104K miles. I still haven't fitted any strut braces. I'm just not convinced of the benefit, yet as an example.

The manifold is best at increasing the mid-range. Similar-ish the UEL manifold will give much the same gains. So changing the manifold reaps the most benefits for day to day driving rather than the track where there is a modest increase at the top end. It does widen the power band though which is very useful for those corners where you're struggling to take a higher gear. If you ditch the primary cat and keep the second one, with a stock or resonated after market system it won't be too loud, but it'll sound a lot better than stock.

I think you'll end up a little under what those of us made with the TD setup, but still some good increases. I think the primary cat will cost you a bit in terms of power. If you want to run a cat, why not run the stock 2nd cat or a high flow cat? The Crawford Power blocks will beef up the mid range but move your peak power down the rev range a bit. But with a decent manifold the mid range will be sorted anyway, so you have to wonder at the need for the extensions to your inlet manifold with the Crawford kit.

As I've said in another thread, changing the manifold and losing the primary cat with a remap, makes a big difference on an NA car. I pondered it for years wondering whether it was really worth it. The torque dip became a torque peak with the TD manifold and resonated system. Gaining 40+lbft in the mid range is very noticable. Easily the best mod. A remap with just a catback and second cat delete (which I did first) did make some difference but the manifold made a much bigger difference. All of the top runners in the TSS N1 class are running the TD manifold and remap. It seems to get the best results for NA tuning compared to what else is out there and they offer it as a package on their website which makes it easy to spend your money! Depends if you're one of those that can't stop chasing power. Fortunately I am not and no where to stop where it comes to mods. More power is always lovely but how much do you really need it is what you need to ask yourself.

Good work. And the delivery?

Changing the manifold and losing the primary cat is the best mod you can do in NA form. It gains (with the right manifold) 40lb/ft in the midrange and that was in my car which had already had a previous remap, so gains would be even more compared to a stock car. If you buy a non-resonated exhaust then you may want to change it for a resonated one if you fit a manifold in the future. I made this mistake and ended up getting a resonated exhaust along with the manifold. I'm not a fan of the Cobra, but plenty seem to like it, plus it's cheap. The only thing I would say is that Cobra don't seem to be that consistent on how loud their exhausts tend to be. So you could get a reasonably quiet one or a louder one. Avoid Milltek, they crack. I've had four of them. Never again. If you think you aren't going to bother changing the manifold in the future, then the Tuning Developments non-resonated exhaust is in your price range (I think) and is a very high quality exhaust as it's made by JP Exhausts (look them up). It'll be better quality than pretty much anything else you can find out there. Think about a decat pipe too, it just increases the volume and gains you a little more power.

Congrats on the new car. Those six days left to wait will feel very long indeed!

Well, in all honesty, it's not clever not getting it returned to stock on the mapping side, so if you're doing it properly you would return it to a stock tune.

If you read Mike's post he said it would be 'advised'. So you don't have to return it to a stock map.

Shame they still haven't signed up as a trader though.

Just to point out if you have Rotas you are not allowed to buy Rays wheel nuts.

Alcantara is a synthetic, so it's not suede. I'd echo what Will says here. If you can get an ex-demo Kouki (i.e. the revised model) then it's well worth it I would say. I've driven the new model a few times now and it does have some nice additions compared to the old.

You want at least 8" rim width, but it depends wholly on what size tyres you are going to put on.