Lauren

MY2017 has LED headlights. It may well have LED's like the Zenki did for the DRL's but it has LED headlights.

You can't hit 60 in second anyway on the older car. No there is absolutely definitely no change to the final drive or power output. The new car has LED's not HID's as the old car has. Other markets got the revision changes, but it is not just limited to North America. Europe doesn't get it. Likely due to emissions regs and higher speed limits. At the OP, if you are going to keep the car for a long time, I would see if you could stretch to the MY2017 car. If you could get a pre-reg, result. It's a better car than the old one and is a nicer place to be. In years to come, it will be the newer model that people want, so it may help residuals. If you can't make the maths work, get a car that is no more than two years old and then you still have three years warranty left which is plenty. They are pretty strong mechanically. Yes, you will hear about it when it things go wrong, but the cars are quite robust. Coil packs seem to be dicky and this will throw an EML, but it is easy to get it replaced under warranty. I have done 96,000 miles plus and will soon hit 100K. My car is now in it's fourth year of sprinting, it's done a fair few trackdays and it's been round Europe four times! In all that mileage I've had two coilpacks (the same one twice!), a driveshaft (a known problem if you lower the car) and my heated seat switch has now stopped illuminating for the second time. The seat heater still works fine though. I'm still on my original clutch. The brakes last really well, it's a cheap car to run too. As far as mileage goes, I don't think there's an issue, but there are plenty of low mileage cars around. The most expensive services are at 60K and 80K, otherwise service costs are not too bad. Whatever one you choose to go with, it's well worth getting one with the leather/alcantara heated seat option. The sat nav option is over priced and is not very good. But it's easy to put another head unit in with whatever you want.

I have a Milltek, but I should add that I'm on my fourth one, due to the previous three cracking. They have put in an extra flexi section which seems to have done the trick, but Mike B had this done too and his still cracked. To be fair as RRG Macc' fitted my Milltek (I specced it when I ordered the car), they have replaced it no hassle three times now, but if it goes again I will be getting something else as well, enough is enough. It sounds lovely and for me it is perfect, but it's hard to recommend a Milltek given that so many people have had them crack. RRG don't sell Millteks anymore as a result of this. I would go for the JP Exhausts system that TD sell as their product. JP are, I think the best exhaust manufacturer I've ever come across and their quality really is fantastic. But whilst you are there, lose the second cat and gain a few horses. Passing the MOT with the primary cat, is no problem at all, I have had two MOT's now on my car with this setup.

Great stuff. Richard is coming now, so plenty of opportunity to buy him a drink at the hotel.

Welcome aboard Matt. So what will be next do you think?

Welcome aboard. You can get new dash panels easy enough if your's are damaged, I don't think that is a wrap so it may not come off. There's really nothing you can do about the squealing apart from fitting aftermarket pads which is what most do. Or just live with it, it's not that bad.

It's obviously got a V8 over dubbed. All badging is removed as well.

I'd consider though at least an exhaust and secondary decat before the remap though. Many have gone for an aftermarket manifold and the Tuning Developmnents one is easily the most popular choice for this sprinting. I'm one of the few running a stock manifold and still have the primary cat, but have lost the second and have a Milltek overpipe and system, induction kit and Tuning Developments remap.

Seriously, go to someone who has a good knowledge of the cars. Ecutek is what the renowned tuners use. Your options are Fensport (Fens) Abbey Motorsport (SE) and Tuning Developments who are in Warrington (NW). You want custom map, not something that is pre-configured, so I wouldn't go the superchips route. May as well do it properly. Most if not all of the N1 class has been remapped by Tuning Developments.

I think it's alright to be fair. Nice and clear.

Cool. Will be interesting to see how you find it. I've been in a few cars with these springs and found they didn't match the dampers too well giving quite a choppy ride. But do let us know how you get on.

The Blitz Advance suction kit is pricey but it sounds amazing.

There is no paltry 5bhp power upgrade for the MY2017 car. However, the chassis has been strengthened in a number of places and the engine has some additional strengthening. Having driven the new car, I can report that the upshot is it's a bit more refined and the interior is nicer. If it was me I would go for the new car as it's a slightly nicer daily proposition than the old car in that where you sit to me, is important. It also rides a bit better and the chassis strengthening seems to help the NVH more than anything else. The BRZ still suffers from some ill thought out interior bits, though it's mainly the dash panel and stereo and that. It always seems that Subaru just don't really care as much as Toyota when it comes to how it looks and they have like with the old model, not taken the time to make the instrument cluster as nice and put in a dogs mess on the stereo surround with an ill matching passenger facia panel. The GT86 is much nicer in this respect. But your choice of course.

I wouldn't fancy the filtration qualities of an HKS filter. No idea if they have got better, but they used to be terrible.

Yeah, looks good. I'm not sure about my face being covered by the search button in the pic. But maybe it's for the best.

Post in social meets on the forum. That's the best way. Stuff on FB quickly gets lost.

Yep, they've been going on for about two years or more now.

It is simply a pipe that is connected to the intake/induction piping before the throttle body that allows some of the noise to come through to the cabin. If you put on an induction kit as I have, then you lose it. Most people blank it off. It doesn't sound that good anyway. If you're coming to Japfest this weekend you'll see plenty of examples of induction kits and all that.

It costs more though!

No, one or the other. An induction kit replaces the OEM airbox and panel filter. You can fit that K&N to the stock box, it simply replaces the stock air filter.

It will gain you nothing tangibly really. It is an air filter, instead of the stock paper type one that is disposable the K&N is washable, so reusable and will provide a higher amount of airflow. Alec saw 4bhp on the rollers when testing, but you'd never notice at 2% power gain. The correct term is air filter, not panel filter, though it looks like a panel. Aftermarket induction kits tend to have a cone which gives more surface area.

Yeah, maybe Church if that is your thing. I specc'd my car with an Injen Induction kit when I ordered the car, so it's been on there from new. Tis going a bit rusty now though round the housing, so not much in the way of bling there!

Well, tbh, I bedded mine on the Blyton Sprint. Not a good idea. Absolutely covered the wheels in dust after the first session and I had no brakes really for the first few runs. They did get a bit better as the day went on though.

Change the induction kit for the noise. That's really the only reason to do it. The Blitz Advance Suction kit sounds amazing. But the trouble is on these cars you only really hear the induction noise from 7K to the redline. They do sound good though.

Mine do it pretty much constantly, though generally I'm extremely light on brakes, think that makes it worse. The squealing is most apparent of course under light braking.