Lauren

They are different on the zenki between the GT86 and BRZ. The spring rates were changed for the kouki if that's what you mean. But they are the same AFAIK for both the new GT86 and BRZ.

Hi! The differences between the GT86 and BRZ are mainly cosmetic. Spring rates differ between the two, apparently making the GT86 more lively and the BRZ less lively on the rear end, but the differences are relatively subtle. The BRZ has the lower spec interior with the low spec dash and different panels on the dash. It's only minor stuff though, seats dash back it's all the same. Service costs are cheap. Intermediate service around £150 and Full service £250 or so. They alternate. So first is intermediate and second is full service and so on. Servicing is every 10K miles/16K kms. Or servicing is yearly, whichever comes sooner. The 6 year or 60K miles 100K kms is when the spark plugs need changing so that's an expensive one. But the 80K mile 130K kms service is the most expensive of all as that is when the fuel filter needs replacing. They are reliable, no really significant issues. Some complain about difficulting downchanging to second gear when it's cold and this does happen in the first five minutes of driving, but they all do that really. Others have had problems with condensation in the rear lights and rusting of the pillars that seperate the quarter window on the front doors from the main window. These are robust cars I would say. A 225/45/17 gives a bit too much sidewall flex for my tastes, I went back to a 215/45/17, which I far prefer and the grip difference is very small. Don't forget a change from the Primacy tyres brings a good improvement.

Looks like there could be some parking in Waitrose, though don't know what the deal is there. There is a long layby though on the main road as Adam says. I used to work in Chester and by the looks of where it is, it's right near a vape shop I used to frequent.

Cool, sounds good!

I honestly don't think you will get anywhere near £300 for the lights. OEM parts do not have much value secondhand. It's hard to put a price on it, but £50-70 is probably more like it. I'm getting a set of OEM lights free from a friend.

Indeed!

Yep for sprinting the needs are very different as we've found out.

The first review I did of the new car back in February was in near freezing conditions and in wet and greasy conditions. Richard of RRG Toyota Macclesfield, asked if I'd like to try the car now temperatures and weather is becoming more spring like. Unsuprisingly I opted for the same usual test route, the 'Lauren Triangle' which covers the A534 out of Macclesfield, a left up onto the twisty A54 at Boseley and when I get to the top I take the infamous A537 Cat & Fiddle on the downhill back to Macc'. First impressions again are the car feels good. The ride is good and well resolved. Though the spring rate is reduced, the anti-roll bar thickness has been increased to compensate this. What you end up with is a more compliant ride, whilst the roll is as well controlled as before in the corners. The balance of the car stays the same. This is a good thing. Yes, you can provoke some understeer, but for me, I'm so used to trailing my braking into corners and my familiarity with the car, means that I just don't encounter understeer. This is almost the problem of knowing the GT86 so well, I've adapted my driving to get the most out of it, so it is a non-issue to me. As I remember in the last test drive, the track mode does it's stuff, allowing a bit more slip in the old sport mode which is a good thing too. I absolutely admit, that if I'm pushing on in my car, I will simply turn all the aids off, but I wonder if that extra bit of slip means track mode is simply enough on the public road not to warrant turning everything off. Review 2 MY2017 GT86 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr There's a part of me that realises that driving the car in slippery conditions almost elicited more information in terms of reviewing as it was far easier to break the limits of adhesion, though what is clear that in the dry the Primacy tyre offers plenty of grip. The car feels taught, responsive and the response from the throttle is clean and crisp. With the newer model car, oil temperature can be clearly seen. It was notable that with some brisk driving keep the revs high on the uphill A54, oil temperatures were around 110C. They do seem to increase quite quickly, but also come down fairly quickly too. Review 2 MY2017 GT86 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr Overall, this second drive, merely confirms my first thoughts, I had back in February. This is a great car out of the box, handling wise it's more compliant than the older car, but just as much fun, nothing has been lost. It's a nicer place to be also thanks to the upgrades in the interior. The track mode allows a bit more fun without it getting too lairy and this is great news for the driver that wants to have fun, but may need to have their enthusiasm curbed by the stability control should they get carried away. I commented to Richard that in my mind, it is no issue that Toyota didn't increase the power, because if you can really drive it, you really don't need anymore and the reponsiveness of an NA engine is impossible to beat, it gives that sharpness to the response that is exactly what you need when balancing what is a great chassis mid-corner. I also take the viewpoint, that less is more, in that it encourages you to carry your momentum into the corners rather than simply rely on the skill deficit of point and squirt down the straights that so many do when the car is dominated by how much power it has. So working for it, is really what it's all about and this really, is what a great driver's car is all about.

I think you have to work out on balance what you want. Are you a driver? Does driving quickly and by that I mean through corners, balancing the car, invoking and managing a slight drift etc float your boat? Or do you prefer mashing the throttle and going very fast indeed in a straight line, with corners spoiling your fun? If it's the former then GT86, if it's the latter BMW. You can even get an 8 speed auto M135i, to make the SLJ stuff easier.

Yeah, I sort of get what you mean, it's the road noise and everything else that makes it hard to hear.

Pretty sure at Oulton they just measured from one side as do most circuits (well all of the ones I've been to). Never had someone standing in the middle before. Your exhaust seems really quiet, no real tone to it, so I'd be surprised if it was near 90Db which is what I normally get in the static tests at the track.

Engine is the same so torque dip is the same. There are probably some minor tweaks to the map, but it's difficult for me to compare with my own car which is remapped and obviously suffers less as a result. I don't know what the diameter of the rear ARB is, only that it's thicker than previously which would make sense with the reduction in spring rate.

Welcome aboard, Syd. Hope you find it useful.

If you're posting items for sale, you need to post pictures and say what the price is please. I would guess at them being worth about half of what their new value is.

A lot of people change the instrument binnacle for one with an alcantara covering as per the MY 2017 car. Or, I find polarised sunglasses mean there is no reflection. I think it's also when people sit high it's worse, though I guess you can't help that if you are tall. At a mere 166cm (5'5") I've never had an issue. I always wear polarised sunglasses though and that means no reflection or glare.

Yep, absolutely and the good news is you have decent wheels, none of that Rota/JR shite.

Sounds like Tuning Developments will be your obvious option, particularly so if you want to turbocharge later. No brainer really. You'll get a big improvement with the manifold and remap.

Yep, sounds like a good deal! What's the offset? And yes a fairly unusual wheel which is no bad thing. My problem is, I think I'm about the only one with TE37's, but every one else is running Rota grids. At least you won't have that problem with there being far less copies of those wheels.

Well, not quite as pretty a wheel, but are Rays/Volk wheels, but depends on width and offset. I think price wise they are worth it, though I guess the more desirable stuff like the TE37s always command more. Do you know what they are? I just went to a local wheel shop in Stockport. About £50 a wheel.

Here you go: From the initial pic, it looks promising. Though the older ones like mine and this one don't have Rays cast into the outside rim, so they're probably 5 years old or more. That's not a prolbem and they look like they need a refurb, but obviously you need to see the back.

Here's an example of the rear identifying marks on mine when I got them back in 2013: Back of Rays Eng TE37 by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr

£300 is too cheap for secondhand TE37's, unless you struck very lucky. They should be double that for ones that need a refurb. TE37s in good condition would be more like £800 secondhand. The newer ones have Rays engineering on the rim. The older ones have it on the back in the insets where the wheel mounts to the hub. Staggered is not cool if you care about driving. If you're more into aesthetics it could be okay, but depends what it is. Any pics?

If it was true that would be worse. But no way I'd have shitty rotas.

Everything.

It was easy with mine as they have 'Rays Eng' stamped on the inner side of the wheel where it mounts to the hub. Also the weight, obviously. Fakes won't be as light. Generally it is fairly easy to tell fake Rays wheels. It's not the problem it is with say Bride seats.