Lauren

My battery was changed when my car was just under three years old but at over 70K miles. So, same difference as over three years.

Well, after three years which means you're in the last two years of warranty regardless of mileage it means that wear and tear items won't be covered but tbh your mileage will vary depending upon your dealer. Any warranty claim on a vehicle that is over three years old or 60k miles has to be submitted to Toyota and approved. I had a leaking cam plate gasket replaced under warranty yesterday. I'm on 93K miles. I also had a coilpack changed at 90K miles.

Zero chance of warranty covering it. All windscreens get little scratches, mine has loads plus a few chips. I'd say don't worry about it.

Mark and I will see if we can make it. No food though as we won't be allowed in with Indy. So we'll see.

You remove the existing ones then stick these on.

Ah, of course! Sorry, just confused me seeing them wrapped, I'll update my records!

As Ross said, you definitely want some camber on there it makes a massive difference. Toe parallel front and rear is okay, it will be lively, but negative camber is worth getting on. I run 2 degrees front and rear and my toe is practically parallel with a very slight amount (1 arc second) of toe in at the rear. The added camber gets rid of the understeer. You'll need camber bolts for the front and offset bushes (or more expensive adjustable lower arms) for the rear. Good coilovers will ride better than Eibach springs on stock dampers. The car I went in with them in had quite a choppy ride and didn't seem to settle, like it was too much for the stock dampers. So interested to hear how you get on.

Welcome aboard. If you think the sidewalls are soft on the Primacy tyres, wait till you've tried the winters. But it makes sense given where you live of course!

So you have TRD ones? I don't get it.

Yours will be replicas, Mike.

Good stuff, James. Did you fit camber bolts on the front and offset bushes on the rear to get the alignment sorted? Just wondered what camber and toe settings you have now as lowering will affect it of course. I think the Eibach's do hurt the ride quality a bit. I would say you can regain some of that ride comfort with good coilovers though I guess that will be in future plans.

Welcome aboard.

Agree with Tweed here, no need to remap just for an induction kit. I ran my Injen without a remap for 70K miles. It did lean out the fuel a little bit which seemed to result in a slight power increase. But it never caused an issue. Fuel/air ratio was just in a slightly better place than without.

The general consensus is that you don't need a baffled sump, particularly with them actually causing a problem due to poor design which is just shocking really. Did Grover ever track his car anyway though?

I've done three years worth of sprinting in mine and a number of track days. I've done 93K miles. My car doesn't use any oil that I can notice. Engine is still strong, no issues either. In terms of the rev limit, Adrian did certainly increase them a few hundred rpm on a remap. Whether or not he offers that as an option or does it to all of them, though, I don't know. I remember talking to him about remaps and he did say that he increases it and I have seen an increased rev limit in cars he has remapped.

Oh yes, those Chinese ones off ebay you were talking about when I last saw you. So if you have pillowball top mounts on the front, camber adjustment is easy. But you will need offset bushes or adjustable lower arms for the rear, so you can set the camber. The settings you have (in terms of camber at least) are not terrible, but it's not what I'd run. You need more on the front, it really helps turn in and gets rid of the understeer. I'd lessen the rear slightly. I'm sure Adam et al., will have set your toe to something, guessing stock settings. Did you get a print out?

Well ,they would have to set the toe, because altering anything changes everything else, so adjusting camber affects the toe and vice versa. What suspension are you running?

That's a bit more on the rear, have you got offset bushes or adjustable lower arms? It just seems odd to set the rears with more camber than the fronts. I had mine set at 2 degrees negative front and rear What did you do for rear toe settings? I had mine set to 1 arc second toe in, so not much! Fronts are parallel of course.

That is cheap! What did you have it set at?

Well, it does have a Fensport remap, so the rev limit will be raised.

Not without any supporting evidence, no.

It's not the specified oil that is causing an issue. There are plenty of engines not going bang after all that are using the OEM oil.

Plus not all of us with a remap have an increased rev limit. But, no, doesn't seem related. I had one go before a remap and one go after.

Welcome aboard. So what's next on the list after that?

I think it's always worth having a jack and axle stands. I admit, I have an AE86 too, so well used to sticking that up in the air. I have a driveway and container too, though not a garage at my house. I'm sure most people will know a friend with a garage or driveway and likely a pair of axle stands and a jack to sort it. It is annoying though that they do seem to be such a common fault. But you're okay till 5 years are up or 100K, so some time yet for most to go I would say. But, if you can do it from the top, then it's far less of a faff really.