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Lauren

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Posts posted by Lauren

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Hot off the press yesterday as the order books open for delivery January 2021:

    https://www.toyota.co.uk/world-of-toyota/toyota-gazoo-racing/gr-yaris/specs#

    I've already spoken to Richard at RRG. Going down Saturday to put a deposit down. I want this car! :)

    Obviously going for the track pack. Price is £33.5K reckon there may be an OTR tax to add though, will find out. 

    BRZ-123, Angelina and willclarke reacted to this

  4. Posted · Report reply

    9 hours ago, MartinT said:

    Yes, it's a facelift with the better suspension. The dampers are not designed for the lowering springs, though.

    Does anyone have Tein Flex Z coilovers? They may be good for me as I don't track mine.

    Sent from my LG-Q6 using Tapatalk
     

    This is exactly the problem with lowering springs. You can try Bilstein dampers but only do so if you are sure they will match the springs, so either buy springs to match them or go TEIN Flex A. Get Flex A because they have hydraulic bump stops. 

  5. Posted · Report reply

    18 hours ago, likaito said:

    Thank you Lauren ☺️ really! wow i knew they were uncommon but i didnt realise they were THAT uncommon! I The one reason why i prefer it is purely for the key ignition start. Just really satisfying compared to a push to start on my 1 series i had before, especially with a loud exhaust 😋

    Fair play. Only real downside  if you're not bothered by less fancy trim, is the smaller brakes. I had the equivalent of a Primo in Japan (GT Limited) and set the brakes on fire on the touge! YMMV of course! ;)

    likaito and Angelina reacted to this

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Welcome and good choice. :)

    I think you have four options with the spare wheel;

    1. Get  a spacesaver. This will be fine, but will not fit the front so you'd have to swop wheels around if you had to use it. 

    2. Take measurements of the OEM wheels and get something similar aftermarket. Not always easy to buy one wheel though. 

    3. Buy  a new OEM wheel. It will not be cheap.

    4. Don't worry about it. I've done five Euro trips including the Alps clockwise and anti-clockwise to Lake Garda. I don't have a spare. 

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I really don't understand why you'd feel a need to change the width. Get the turbo fitted, drive it, see what you think. 👍 

    FWIW, I think it's a pity that so many feel a need to totally over-tyre their cars, add huge amounts of rotational mass and unsprung weight. All of these contribute to ruining how the car drives and more so how it handles. 

  12. Posted · Report reply

    The torque dip isn't really a massive issue. Keep the revs up and it is fine. A lot of us have sorted this with a manifold and remap. Makes a big difference to mid-range torque. 

    The car never had a reversing camera. You can fit an aftermarket unit to do this to the stock head unit. 

    Plugs are only changed every 60K. Yes a pain to do and a more expensive service, but you don't have to change them often. 

    Auto gearbox is reliable. It only really has limitations if you go turbo, but this can be managed.

    As for important parts of the service history, spark plugs at 60K, fuel filter at 80K and also that the diff oil has been changed every 20K. Some dealers seem to skip this. 

    2012-2013 cars that the valve spring recall has been done, also steering harness recall in 2016. 

    There are no real issues with rust yet. 

    Test Drives Unlimited reacted to this

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I would just focus on finding the car in the right colour and spec for what you want, so if one comes up before March go for it. I don't think the next year of registration makes a massive difference in all honesty. Definitely get one with the Alcantara/leather heated seats, much nicer than the cloth and heated seats are lovely to have. Same with spoiler,  get the car you want in the right spec. I specified parking sensors when I bought my car and do appreciate having them. It is a dealer fit option though so you could add them after. I prefer them over a reversing camera, as I prefer to park with my side mirrors. 

  14. Posted · Report reply

    40 minutes ago, Quemadillo said:

    @Churchlet me check those coilovers

    @Laurendo you have any clue on the % of brake bias changed (and if is front/rear) of the Reyland kit? What I saw is that this kit is the same for the Impreza and our car and those cars have as far as I know different bias.

    Thanks !

    It doesn't change it much at all. I didn't notice any real difference. The kit is designed for the car, rather than just bolt on with no consideration given to bias.  It is a bit easier to activate the ABS in the wet on track, but I would say you need a little less pedal pressure, so it's more a case of recalibrating your right foot, which you soon get used to. 

  16. Posted · Report reply

    52 minutes ago, Quemadillo said:

    Hello, thanks for answering.

    Really interesting clarification about the rotors and your use case. 

    Hello,

    What a detailed answer with tons of info that will be fantastic for me, thank you so much!!! Let me answer you :)

    • Tires -> federal rsr 595 pro
    • Suspension -> stock
    • One thing that you mention is something key for me that I didn't know why is happening to me at trackdays (front outer side get's really worn so fast). I need now to understand what are all those bits to order them and ask to fit them.
    • GClock is something that I saw and I didn't know if it was a good idea or not but I'm not super happy with how "planted" I feel on the stock seats when I drive hard at the track so I will take a look to that.
    • Helmet and gloves are ok :) I already have an OMP helmet and Sparco gloves.

     

    Thank you again

    I'd recommend the Schroth 3 point harness about £120 on Amazon. Perfect for what you are doing. I love mine and it easily stows behind the drivers seat when you are driving on the road and using the stock seat belt. CG lock is better than nothing, but nowhere near as good as a harness. 

    You are killing the outside of your tyres as you barely have any negative camber. Coilovers are the best way forward to sort that though. 

    I'd agree with Church on running more road orientated tyres on track such as V105s, PS4's.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Quemadillo said:

    Hello Lauren,

    one of the people that I was willing to have an answer is you, I saw a lot of post of you about brakes so I'm happy that I was able to catch your attention :)

    Do you know anyone that uses this kit for trackdays (you?)? I would like to know if they will be good for "track abuse" always at stock power level, of course.

    Also, do you know how they compare to the Brembos or the Essex kit? 

    And last question, what shape make sense for me? Disc surface options: straight grooves, J hook gooves, curved grooves.

    Thanks again,

     

    Hi, they will be excellent for track use. I have done a fair number of trackdays and two seasons of sprinting on mine. My best is 160 track miles in a day and they never faded. I don't know how they compare to Brembos or the 'Essex' kit (no idea what the Essex kit is). I suspect they'll be as good as anything else. 

    I went for straight grooves, but it doesn't massively matter really. 

  18. Posted · Report reply

    The Reyland Kit, 4 pot with 330mm discs would be great for your usage. I have had them on my car for two years and 40K miles. I have had no issues. 

    The replacement discs are 'special' and made by Reyland. Not sure on replacement cost for the discs as I haven't needed to replace them yet. You can use AP discs and these will fit, but cost will be more. So if you want to use the cheaper Reyland discs then you will need to order through them. 

    My best guess is that your wheels will probably fit. I have 17x8 TE37 with an ET of 38, I have lots of clearance. 

    The AP kit works on track fantastically well. I use DS2500s and they are great on the road too. Seem to last well too. 

    Quemadillo reacted to this

  19. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Matt21 said:

    Hi Lauren,

    I checked on the Toyota site and there are no recalls outstanding.

    The dealer has also sent me copies of photos from a 'recall', I can see an open cylinder head in them and also a clutch that's been removed, so assume the springs have been changed as well as the clutch and plugs while they were at it!
    Should have done around 6k miles since that (I think), and obviously still going ok! 

    That's good to know, Matt. Good luck with picking it up and enjoy the drive home. :)

  22. Posted · Report reply

    36 minutes ago, Portalfl0w said:

    Thanks! That's definitely worth checking, the thread is also very useful. I might ping some of these questions to the dealership before I go as it's a 1 hour drive away for me. When you say expensive, how much would it cost if it hasn't had it done? Might be able to knock that off the price too.

    It's a £600 service as it's tricky to get to the plugs. I would check that has been done or agree it at point of sale. As for the Primacy tyre, there are better tyres out there, though I stuck with the Primacy for the first 25,000 miles and did enjoy it a lot. You can get PS4's if you want grip over anything else. I had more fun though on Yokohama V105's, not quite as much grip but you could play with it more and a good upgrade over the Primacy HP. 

    Portalfl0w reacted to this

  24. Posted · Report reply

    7 hours ago, Sleazyboii said:

    Sorry to bring up an old thread, I've been experiencing a similar issue. It sounds like an horrendous creak when turning on inclines and flats. Its getting worse I'm confident it's not my drop links as these were changed when I had my coilovers put on. I've been reading alot of people mention the anti roll bar as the culprit, is it as simple as sliding the bushes across and greasing? 

    It's most likely a dry joint on your droplinks. If the seal has split and water has got in, it will cause the balljoint in the droplink to rust which causes the horrendous sound. I changed my ARB mounts for poly bush ones as we were convinced that was the issue. Turned out to be my aftermarket droplinks (TD ones) , well one of them. Was difficult to see as well. They had been on for around 30K miles. Changed to Whiteline ones, sorted. 

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