Lauren
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Posts posted by Lauren
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On 12/31/2019 at 8:25 AM, Church said:Slightly curious .. if one removes battery power, does active ecutek mapping mode still "stick" or reverts to some default/first?
It keep the map you previously selected. Had my battery disconnected plenty of times lately!
Church reacted to this -
Stoptech pads are a good option if you want to reduce brake squeal. As has been said, zero gain from swopping one cat for another really. Much better to change the manifold and get a remap.
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You would gain a lot more from changing the exhaust manifold and then retune. Welcome aboard. A load of us are doing a track day at Donington on Sunday 26th January, if you're up for it? Could be a good way to see how mods change it as a number of us are taking well sorted cars there.
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Can't tell from your vid. It's unlikely that the clutch has worn out. Could be a squeaky pedal (don't worry about it), could be an issue with the slave cylinder, but more likely it's just the sound of depressing the clutch. It doesn't sound like a release bearing. They can rattle a bit, but this is not uncommon and nothing to worry about.
If the slave cylinder fails then the pedal will just go to the floor.
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Could be a worn drop link, mind you when they do go, they make a terrible creaking sound, it's horrible.
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I think they all do that. Use a trolley jack and axle stands for maintenance. I only use my scissor jack to get my car high enough so I can get the trolley jack under it.
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You can probably pick up refurbed calipers on an exchange basis. I have looked on Brakes International. They don't seem to have any at present but might be worth an email to them. sales@brakesint.co.uk
I can't see why you can't get your existing rears refurbed in all honesty. My rears have done 144K miles. They do have some issues with raised bits of pad at times causing them to squeak at low speeds, but I've just learnt to ignore it. It's not a problem as such. The trouble is with BBK, is that you don't need to change the rears, so you'd be better off either refurbing or replacing just the rears if you have to. I'm running AP 4 pots up front (Reyland kit for £1500), they are brilliant to be fair, already done 40K miles on them and still have plenty left on pads and discs. I do a lot of track work and competition though. For road driving, even driving the car hard, OEM are perfectly up to the job. The only time I've found them a little lacking was driving hard on Alpine descents but it's not like I do that often!
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Once the map is activated it's set. Not sure why you'd change it then turn it off. It will start with whatever the previous map was. I don't tend to ever change mine.
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8 hours ago, Philip said:If the car is a GT86 (rather than a BRZ) then the warranty period is 5 years.
But you can't expect a battery to be covered for more than three years realistically.
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It depends how long it is since you used it. If your battery is over three years old and of the old black top/white body 45Ah I would replace it. If the car is under three years old, do it under warranty. Otherwise replace for a 65Ah. Lack of use is most of the problem really.
Test Drives Unlimited reacted to this -
Spray the lock with plus gas, if it's stiff. Let it soak then turn carefully anti-clockwise with the key to open it.
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Looks good. What was the torque output at the correct scale in lb/ft? Just to be accurate you have power measured at the hubs, not at the wheels. Not a massive difference but it is an extra variable. The Milltek sounds great I bet. Loved mine. But wouldn't have another after four of them cracked. Unfortunately the welding on them is poor, but I suppose at least you get a new exhaust every 20K miles or so.
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You could just ask Toyota how much. Or look in the parts for sale section.
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1 hour ago, Jay said:+20 hp sounds good. How about torque delivery? Any (measured) data?
Huge mid-range increase saw mine go to a peak of 178lb/ft, but around 40lb/ft more over without at some points. Torque dip becomes Torque peak.
No drone with the exhaust either. And yes, get rid of the sound generator. Never had it mine even from new.
Mike@TD.co.uk reacted to this -
Amazon. Was around £120.
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It's most likely the drop link binding on the rose joint. I had one which made a terrible creaking noise when turning the steering. Water had got into the joint. With your's though it's probably the just the drop links moving as the strut moves lock to lock which moves the drop link and applies some pressure to the anti-roll bar. I guess a stiffer ARB will be less compliant than the stock one.
scbrz reacted to this -
Nice. Looks like it's been lowered, is it on coilovers? Also non-stock exhaust though it looks like the rear valence is designed for quad tailpipes.
3card reacted to this -
As Jeff points out, any change to ride height will affect the toe and camber so you will need to get an alignmnent done afterwards.
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It's only an exhaust, they are all much the same. Just make sure you have the gaskets you need. But any competent garage can do this kind of work.
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It will likely be a raised (sintered) bit of pad. Mine do this. It comes and goes. I've learnt not to worry about it. You can grind the pad down to remove the raised section. Changing pads normally will sort it. There's no real point or need to uprate the rear calipers, you'd have to do the fronts in unison anyway, which would work out a lot more expensive.
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It's the connectors to the coil pack itself.
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What do you mean by water on the rear window? Condensation? If so that will just be due to it being sat. The cabin is pretty small on these cars so you have to run the AC all the time to keep the windows clear.
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I don't think the manifold goes anywhere near the loom really. It's been on for 43K miles, so not the life of the car. I've spoken to Gary today he's going to have a better look at it mid next week and will come back to me then. It may be that I have to replace the loom. We shall see. I may have to wait till Richard gets back from his hols, so will be rocking the auto Aygo for a couple of weeks by the looks of it! 🤣 It doesn't matter though, I can get around okay which is the main thing.
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I am having significant problems with the wiring connectors to the coil pack on my car. It is currently at RRG again. All the coil packs have been replaced over the last three years or so.
RRG say my loom is brittle which is disappointing on a car that although has high mileage at 143K miles is not yet seven years old. I am starting to think that we may all start to experience this problem as our cars get older.
I am not the only one it seems to have problems with the connector on the coil packs when they have been on and off a few times. Maurice has had the same. Unfortunately unless someone can tell me different it does not seem possible to buy the connectors separately from the loom. This could potentially mean a new loom at a cost of £650 which I’d obviously rather avoid. The problem is the loom is seemingly fragile and though RRG have bypassed the loom for one of the coil packs, the problem seems to remain which may well point to the connector itself I think.
On later cars, I think 2017 on there is a revised connector which has a 'triangle' pattern more like a three pin plug than the three terminals in a row on earlier cars. So these are less likely to be an issue. Someone else has suggested replacing with the later terminals though that would mean a new loom plus all four coil packs as long as the loom is interchangable of course. That is an expensive solution though!
Bringing an 86 back from the dead
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I think with the difference in width front to rear, your car is not going to handle, it's just going to be tedious understeer everywhere. It's massively over-tyring the car really.