GT86Jay

For the 300bhp mark 2.5" is fine. I've got 2.5" throughout. The biggest restriction is the stock 2nd Cat. Even with stock manifold and overpipe you'd be fine for flow. I've gone for optimum flow whilst staying legal, de-catted manifold, High-Flow Cat in front pipe resonated. Car with similar setup with no cats did produce a little more power, but it's incredibly loud and illegal for MOT.

I've confirmed with Toyota that everything will be the same on the Thursday as the weekend. The only differences in the past have been the race cars driving up the hill and the famous people not present.

Here's an article with some more info. Looks good! http://blog.toyota.co.uk/toyota-goodwood-festival-of-speed-2015

I'd like 2 if possible please!

Welcome to the Forum. I run 8" wheels with 225s and feels great. Plenty of grip on the road with Eagle F1s and not too much road noise! I also have Supercharger so a fair bit more power. In the dry no problems and can't find the limit of the tyres before I give in, wet is a little bit hairy at times but drive to the conditions. I am in no hurry to go wider. I think 8" with 225s is a nice combination for NA cars. The TRD stock uses 7.5J with 225s.

Why is the oil temp such a big problem? I am more concerned about oil pressures. The oil pressures I'm seeing are around 4 bar once the oil is above 70+c. Even at 100c I still see the same oil pressures consistently? I've never seen my pressure sit below 4 bar when driving hard even on a hot day where the oil is around 100c. Is 4 bar too high? I'm no expert when it comes oil physics. But My understanding is that if I'm seeing 4 bar no matter what the temp after 75c what damage will it ever do by being 'too cold' when cruising.? I'm happier that once I get on the throttle and sprinting I'm sitting it around 95 - 100c to boil off any water and still see a consistent 4 bar.

Yeah it's thermostatic. I believe it gradually opens and then is fully open at 75c. I see my temps creep up to 80c then drop back to 75c and are steady around 75 - 80 cruising around.. When I had my bumper off to test the cooler it was actually too effective. And it caused my temps to drop to around about 60 - 65c. So the restrictive fog light whole actually seems to help keep temperatures up a little bit.

I'm currently looking at this tyre as we speak too. Just had a quick look and doesn't look like its available in that size in the UK either. It jumps from 205/45/17 to 18" Looks like its available in the US. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Super+Sport&partnum=145YR7PSSXL

It'll probably do a better job at cooling your oil once its on the car then... Probably why your temps are a bit higher.

It's what I see. Off throttle with hadly any load and lots of cold air over the cooler. They're going to be fairly low. Soon as I get on the gas they creep up. You don't have a cooler right?

I've been taking note of the oil temps and pressures over the journey. Driving it hard / steady, motorway and sprint style driving on b-roads. My Oil temp gauge is taken off the oil filter sandwich plate. And is accurate and identical to the ECU Oil Temp reading. Oil Pressure is taken off the same port as the stock oil pressure switch. Oil Temps I use the Millers 0W30 CFS Fully Synthetic Oil, with the HKS Type S Oil Cooler with hoses of about 1.7m long. What I've noticed is steady driving, cruising around I never see over 80c Oil temp. Driving it hard i've seen peaks of about 90c and on one Sunday chasing a RS4 and an RX7 we saw 102c on a very hot day. I've never been able to get them past 110c. Oil pressures Oil Pressures once hot always sit at around 4.5 Bar when sticking to speed limits and cruising around etc Idles at 1.2 bar and peaks at about 5 bar under full throttle to red line. When cold the pressure sits at 8 Bar. I've never seen my oil pressures over 10 Bar off the scale and never seen them drop below 1 bar even when really hot. The journey was about an hour and all readings where taken holding the car at a steady speed... RPM - Speed - Oil temp C - Oil Pressure - Gear 2000rpm - 50mph, 76 degrees, 3 bar, 6th gear 3500rpm - 86mph, 75 degrees, 5 bar, 6th gear 5000rpm - 90 mph, 80 degrees, 5 bar, 6th gear 5000rpm - 120 mph, 80 degrees, 5 bar, 6th gear 3500rpm - 86mph, 86 degrees, 4 bar, 6th gear I'm going to do a couple of other tests where I blank off the oil cooler air intake to see how much work the cooler is doing etc.

On the way up to Felixstowe yesterday for a funeral I took some readings that might be of some interest. I don't know? I'll also post them in the Oil Discussions thread. But thought I'd put them in here as they're relevant to my build too. I've been taking note of the oil temps and pressures over the journey. Driving it hard / steady, motorway and sprint style driving on b-roads. My Oil temp gauge is taken off the oil filter sandwich plate. And is accurate and identical to the ECU Oil Temp reading. Oil Pressure is taken off the same port as the stock oil pressure switch. Oil Temps I use the Millers 0W30 CFS Fully Synthetic Oil, with the HKS Type S Oil Cooler with hoses of about 1.7m long. What I've noticed is steady driving, cruising around I never see over 80c Oil temp. Driving it hard i've seen peaks of about 90c and on one Sunday chasing a RS4 and an RX7 we saw 102c on a very hot day. I've never been able to get them past 110c. Oil pressures Oil Pressures once hot always sit at around 4.5 Bar when sticking to speed limits and cruising around etc Idles at 1.2 bar and peaks at about 5 bar under full throttle to red line. When cold the pressure sits at 8 Bar. I've never seen my oil pressures over 10 Bar off the scale and never seen them drop below 1 bar even when really hot. The journey was about an hour and all readings where taken holding the car at a steady speed... RPM - Speed - Oil temp C - Oil Pressure - Gear 2000rpm - 50mph, 76 degrees, 3 bar, 6th gear 3500rpm - 86mph, 75 degrees, 5 bar, 6th gear 5000rpm - 90 mph, 80 degrees, 5 bar, 6th gear 5000rpm - 120 mph, 80 degrees, 5 bar, 6th gear 3500rpm - 86mph, 86 degrees, 4 bar, 6th gear I'm going to do a couple of other tests where I blank off the oil cooler air intake to see how much work the cooler is doing etc.

To add to what Maz has said I don't find I drive any faster top speed. I'm just accelerating faster and harder. On the motorway you tend to accelerate, over take but then cruise back down to a sensible speed. Never really using brakes. The only time I was glad for better brakes was on a back road as Maz said. Between corners with shorter roads you do get up to a higher speed than before. Therefore the braking needed is far more. I've been getting caught out the last couple of weeks getting used to my new speeds on roads I know really well. Driving them at 90% of the car capacity now is far far quicker than it was in NA form. Therefor i'm getting to corners faster with a higher speed. I think better brakes will always be better if you want to do spirited B-Road drives. But you can get away with stock brakes and a good pad if you're just cruising around and using the extra power on more main roads.

It's double din height, But Toyota Width. Very few after market head units will fill the gap width, They'll be shorter. So you need an adpater. There are a few that do the full width Toyota size. A double din will fit with the correct adpater plate.

It doesn't have Line Level, You would have to run from the speaker level to a Hi Level to Line Level converter. I've looked every where for line level and the JBL kit also uses speaker level to Line level so pretty sure this is the only way.

So following on from the topic tangent in my Supercharger thread, I thought I'd start another thread regarding this. I asked specifically about the legals of Black Gel Numberplate like the style below. I asked Norfolk Traffic Police and Suffolk Traffic Police what their views were on the black gel number plates. They didn't want to specifically say Legal or Not Legal but what they did say is as long as the plate is visible, correct font, correct spacing and reflective there isn't a problem. I'm still trying to get them to confirm specifically about Gel letters. But I don't think they want to put them in a position where they confirm anything! Seems like even they don't know.. They forwarded me on this leaflet saying this is the guidelines... https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/359317/INF104_160914.pdf If anyone has any stories, numberplates they've got away with running and problems then this is a good place to post. I think i'm going to get a smaller Gel Number plate, to within all the standards and law and see how it goes.

Hi Keith Peak boost on the HKS Supercharger is around about 6k rpm. Because of the nature of the supercharger there isn't too much boost happening below 3k rpm. So we don't tend to have to worry about too much boost low down on the rods. I think the main problem with Turbo cars is bringing the power in too early can cause the rods to bend. With the supercharger especially the HKS one the boost is happening in the high RPMs. I'm only speaking for the HKS supercharger as I don't know enough about the Sprintex setup to know. But the HKS one gives us a brilliant NA feel throughout the rev range and the power feels fantastic in the high RPMs! The restrictor we talk about peaks these boost levels at the top end. Less air thats getting through the less boost etc. I'm meeting Maz today so i'll get him to chime in on your reply. I don't know why HKS chose the 11.5:1 ratio but I don't think with their HKS setup the actual compression matters to much. As like you say its more about peak high rm cylinder pressures rather than low down. I do know HKS do 3 different size head gasket too to adjust compression.? Some of this might not be accurate but it's how I understand it. I'll get more from Maz today and update. Jay

I ended up having to cut mine off. Luckily I had new ones.

Interesting. No data other than 1st hand experience and some articles about VVTi and using the wrong oil. They run a 10W60 with VVT-i as stock?

Its also worth remembering that anything thicker than 0W30 messes up VVTi and causes problems in this engine. Don't put anything higher than the specified oil as the VVTi gets stuck and doesn't switch.

I'm running the Millers 0W30 and will probably just stick with this on a 5k interval. I've got not problems with my oil temps or pressures i'm seeing for the sort of driving I do. And the odd bit of track work.

I doubt anyone would ever be pulled over for having a slightly wrong numberplate. A cop would have to be pretty bored to do that. The problem comes if you get pulled for something else or a random spot check then its another thing they'll add to the list of offenses. Not that anyone on here will be doing anything illegal or has anything illegal!

DVLA have just replied to me and stated that Black 3D lettering is okay as long as the other requirements are legal. And number plate spacing and size are compliant. I think i'll print this reply off and carry it in the car.

I didn't measure it and can't really now. The stock pulley is pretty much the limit that HKS say is safe for the charger. I think there is one owner in Japan running a slightly smaller pulley. But I wouldn't feel confident with it. The charger can push 400hp easily on the stock pulley with no restrictor. Way beyond the limits of what i'd ever want to run on a stock engine. 1.2bar no restrictor sounds about right. Even with my 39mm pulley the charger just pulls and pulls to red line and it feels fantastic!

It's worth mentioning that this will only work with Apple, I purchased one a few months back that didn't specify. They don't work with Android or Windows. The thing is shit in that respect.