Keethos

Awesome stuff Tim, I was seriously contemplating e-mailing the dude to see if I could get in on the group buy....but then decided I still really didn't want to spend that much on an aerial I don't even use (as I only ever listen to the tunes on my USB stick). Still can't decide on whether I want just a shorter stump aerial or a similar shark design.

No worries dude, I'll see you this weekend anyways!

Nice, getting even more power and torque. How come there's still a lil dip in there Mark? Take it you don't really notice it while driving as it's so small?

LOL, good stuff...though doesn't it need the aggressive start up in order to warm the cats up? Or does it not really matter as long as you don't rag is from the get go and wait a lil longer before doing so?

Hmmmmm....does look good....fiitting won't be that much will it? And it won't be the same type or even as loud of a whine will it? I want a proper whine like the VXR Monaro :32 (37):

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dz7mHPPV44U http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dz7mHPPV44UWhy is so difficult to find a decent video of this?

Awesome stuff!

I'll let Lauren decided, but I'll be careful, you'll never know how Stu and them might take that....don't want to be seen forcing people to hear about us at a meet :32 (18):

Is this a hint that Mark's SC is smoking hot? :32 (13):

Yeah, very tempted by the lights....just don't know if they will go with the car as they don't really match the front lights of a GT86 (they suit the BRZ as they are a similar style). As for the side fenders, you'll find that the ones for £54 are just the chrome bit in the middle, the actual fenders themselves are about £320 from dealers (both sides) but if you get them off ebay (shipped from Japan I think), they'll be about half that, so about £150 I think.Don't you get any updates at all for any threads? Make sure you go to your User Settings (by clicking on your username in the top right hand corner), go to the "Notifications" tab and set the "Email Notifications" to "ON" and tick everything you want notifying for.

Can you remove the hydro dip if you don't like it? Do you need to do anything to it after it's dipped like spraying on a gloss coat / lacquer? How do you remove the silver bits on the vents Kristov? Fancy another project :32 (17):

Just a lil more to the side please......but if your too busy, we'll take some pics when we visit :32 (17):

Great stuff Rich....they look awesome!!!

Awesome stuff....when when is Litchfield available to let people test drive it? You booked in yet Ed?

I've finally got a response from Mark, he is around this Saturday but he'll be busy prep'ing a customers car to go to Spa and might not be around or available, so we might be able to pop down there for a quick visit/chat but doubt he'll have time for anyone to checkout his stuff like the supercharger properly.

LOL, same here, that's why I'll most probably be making the extra effort and 2 hours drive (one way) to get my next service done by Rich at RRG Macclesfield, that way I know it'll get done right!

Would be, but this was more of an experiment, so if I don't like it, I can just peal it off....though my painting skillz are pretty poor so I'm pretty sure that I'd mess it up some how.....never mind trying to paint a carbon fibre effect :32 (33):I might give this another try as I've still got some vinyl left, I've even gave the steering wheel trim a try but again, didn't turn out that great....but I think my issue is that I'm not using enough heat.....so will give this another try when I get hold of a proper heat gun rather than just a hair dryer....but even so.....the gap in the middle is going to be a problem as there's a fair bit of silver in there so not enough wrap to cover it....But I actually quite like the look of this so might make a better effort.....painting it could be an option but again I like the carbon fibre look to it too so I might try out the hydro dipping method as that seems a lot easier too.

My gear stick makes a rattle/buzz but only when I'm high up in revs and while under load, guessing it might have something to do with the reverse gear lever but no idea what we could do to fix this....not taken it to my dealer about it yet (though not confident that they will be able fix it).As for the rough idle, have you had the ecu update?

Found a guide here:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35900&highlight=steering+wheelAnd a rather nice looking steering wheel too.....hmmmm.....very nice in deed......:32 (13):

So around 10ish? At Abbey's or at the Grasshopper?

Well....I gave this wrapping malarkey a 2nd round and with regards to the fob, it faired better and worse, did a pretty good job around the buttons and the Toyota badge (though it does stick out a bit and doesn't want to stay down 100%) but my cutting skillz around the outside was equally as horrendous as before to the point where I removed a bit too much :32 (11):As for the door handle cover, I tried tackling the second one with no success, still couldn't do the same corner as before...to the point where I couldn't even get it anywhere as close as before, so I thought I'd experiment and trimmed a bit out to relieve some of the crumble zone.....didn't work out great to be honest, and you can actually see this bit if you look around the handle a bit but you can't really see it while your sat in the car......and you can see from one of the pics....there seemed to be a bit of wrinkling/bubbling along the top edge which occurred while I was asleep as I'm sure it wasn't there when I finished it.Hmmmmm.....what next....anyone know how to remove the silver bit on the steering wheel?

What time and where you thinking on meeting up? I'll actually be traveling down from Warwick that morning so its guna take me about 2 hours. Has Mark agreed to a meet at his place as he still hasn't responded to my emails

Ooo, I have no idea, sorry, never really paid much attention to see what group they belonged to.

Hi, welcome to the club and best of luck with the move. Sadly, I have no idea about importing cars over from other countries but road tax for the BRZ/GT86(FR-S) is £220 for the year for us brits....no idea if it's the same for imported cars. MOT isn't required for brand new UK cars for up to 3 years....again no idea if this applies to none UK cars. Sorry I can't be of much help. Hopefully someone else on here has a better idea.

Hey all,I've finally had some spare time to work on my baby today so I've been a very productive boy! My first goal today to was to sort out this horrible rattle/buzzing noise caused by my JBL system rumbling away when certain songs with certain frequencies of bass is blaring out. The rattle seems to be from the passenger window switch which I originally asked my dealer to have a look at, only for the retards to come back to me saying they couldn't fix it so they turned the bass down for me....gee thanks. So I've decided to tackle this issue myself and it's pretty obvious what the noise could be coming from which I will explain through this guide.So the first task is to remove the inner door card and to do so, you need fingers of steel and more importantly, balls of steel!! To start, simply remove the plastic grommet clip close to the door hinge and the plastic cap behind the inside door handle. Pry off the silver (or red for those with the red inserts) door handle cover, starting from the button, prying outwards and working your way up. So use your fingers of steel to pull out and upwards with your thumb or fingers on the underside of the cover and then get a flat head screwdriver to pry it open from the side with the leather padding. Get your balls of steel in gear and give it a bit of welly as you need to give it some to pop off the clips holding this piece in place. Continue to hinge this part outwards as at the top of the cover, there is a tab that points upwards which you need to unhook.Get a Philips head screwdriver and unscrew the 3 screws holding the door in place. Then get your fingers of steel and balls of steel to start from the door card edge closes to the door hinge and start to pry this bad boy off making sure the panel pops all it's plastic clips. Work your way down and around until you reach the other end and then start to lift the door card. If it doesn't lift, there might be 1 or 2 plastic clips still in around the central area of the door card so pull the door card further out from the bottom edge. Once you've lifted the door card off the window lip at the top, don't move the door card too far away as there are 2 or 3 wires connected to the door light and the window switches as well as 2 cables that are hooked onto the inner door handle and dead lock switch (make note on how these are hooked and connected).(Drivers Door Card)(Passengers Door Card)Once you've removed the door card, use a Philips head screwdriver again to remove the 4 screws around the window switch housing, then unhook the 2 plastic loops around the screw hole along the top (in line with each other) and continue to hinge it outwards as there is a plastic tab/hook on the underside of this part.(Passenger Window Switch)Now that this part is free, give the back of the window switch a wiggle (the big blocky unit) and you can feel and hear it move about very easily, this is what I believe to be the cause of the noise.(Drivers Window Switch)You can see from the pics that there are 4 lower tabs and 6 upper tabs, it's the 4 lower tabs that you need to pry open in order to remove the outer housing in order to pad it out. You can't push the tabs in as they're pretty solid, you need to get a thin flat metal blade that's sturdy enough for you to wrench the outer plastic outwards (they need to move a fair distance so be careful you don't snap or split it) in order to begin the process of moving the switch unit out.(You can see where the 4 tabs are located, the plastic outer has start to turn a lil grey as they get stretched/strain a lil so be careful.)(Driver Side Window Switch Unit)Now you have this unit on it's own, get some double sided foam tap or whatever you have to stick and pad out the gap between this unit and the outer casing.Note that the drivers side has an extra unit which also moves around a fair bit so remove this and do the same (note that the tabs for these can be pushed in and is quite easy to remove once the window switch unit has already been removed)Once you've added the padding, carefully slot these back into place without catching and scrapping the foam pad away (I left one side with the non-sticky film still on so the unit can slide back into place while still padding the gap out) and just re-assemble just like you disassembled it.Hopefully this has sorted out your rattle, I'll be sure to give an update if it continues to rattle as there could be other areas that might cause a rattle!