Keethos

Cool, I can do either, just PM the details. Thanks dude.

Hey dude, would love to take these off your hands, how do you want payment?

Thought I'd create a blog like thread to keep people updated with my car and how I'll go abouts getting my baby back to full health again. The plan so far in my head is source as much of the bolt on stuff that I can fix myself as I can while getting the cutting, welding and painting done professionally.....this will hopefully save me money while getting the car fixed to a decent standard......well that's the idea anyways I think. I spent the day up at RRG Macclesfield today with Rich (big thanks for being a star, working with us there as he's supposed to be off work all week but here he is helping me sort my car out and getting it looked at) along with Dave who was there being a legend as usually supplying me with some spare parts that he had lying around while continuously pimping his car up even more, so a big thank you to you too Dave! After Dave had his car sorted, in went my car and thanks to Gary who fitted me Dave's spare wing mirror and then had a look at the washer bottle. Sadly the bugger got pushed back and punctured a small hole and one of the pumps had cracked in half too, so Gary just bunged it up (luckily it was the head lamp washer pump which is broken at the other end anyways so no use to me, I just want the windscreen to get sprayed) and then he silicone sealed the small hole in the hopes to make it watertight (we will find out tomorrow when I top it up with washer fluid). Gary also had some issues with the wing mirror as firstly the door wouldn't open properly cause the door was catching the front fender, but Gary gave it a quick tug with a crow bar and now the door opens fully no problems (bar some creaking) but then he struggled to get the old wing mirror cable out properly as the outer door skin had been push in a bit reducing the space inside but again, Gary prevailed eventually.....Big thanks to Gary! While the car was up, we had a quick poke around and again, couldn't seen any issues from underneath, though still with all the panels and stuff in place but we're pretty certain that it's all good mechanically.....100odd miles from London to home and then another 200odd mile from home to RRG Mac and back again with a bit of spirited driving in-between disclosed no issues at all. After the car was now drivable without getting neck pains from not needing to twist my head around to see what's down the left of me, we wondered over to the body shop in Manchester for it to be looked at and get quoted on (which Rich will sort out next week when he's back in work officially). Closer inspection to the front bumper and lamp area, looks like the lamp will need changing as the plastic brackets have snapped (not guna be cheap unless I can find a second hand one) and the front bumper brace thingy where the bumper and the lights attach to seems to have shifted across slightly, this either means rejigging it across slightly or cutting a section out and welding a new piece in And obviously still no idea what damage I may have caused to the sub frame under the front fender and the under seals but touch wood there's either none or very little work needed So here's an update pic:

- How to Remove the Front Side Fenders - In order for you to remove the front side fenders to replace them with either new ones, ones that are different colours or in this case, replacing from the GT86 style to the BRZ style, to make your life easier, these are some handy tools that I used to help me remove the front side fenders, other similar tools can be used too, whatever is easier for yourself or have access to: - Multi-bit Screwdriver with a detachable head + a small female hex attachment (e.g. 5/32 CR-V head used to remove small hexagonal nuts or bolts) - Used to locate onto the plastic pins and allows to you push them out while pulling from the other side without slipping off them - Long flat head screwdriver - Used between the fender and the side fender panel/garnish to help pry it off - Maybe a shorter flat head screwdriver - Can be helpful for one of the pins that is more difficult to reach that the multi-screwdriver can't reach - IMPORTANT - Cloth - To prevent damaging/scratching both your car and yourself as there are some areas where you can cut yourself if you slip when pushing with the screwdriver - A flat piece of plastic that is relatively sturdy like an old card/bank card/credit card/store card etc that you no longer need - To help scrap off the left over sticky foam tape which is less likely to seriously damage your paint like a screwdriver could This is what the back of a side fender panel/garnish looks like: You have 3 plastic push pins along the top, 3 along the bottom and then a pad of double sided very stick foam tape. To remove the panel: -> To start, pop the bonnet up and have the door by the panel you are working on first wide open -> You want to work from the front backwards tackling the sticky pad last -> Place the cloth over the body panel and into the engine bay so you are covering the first plastic push pin which is the one in the top left hand corner -> Use the multi-bit screwdriver to push the pin from inside the engine bay (with the cloth in-between the hex head and the push pin) while trying to either use your fingers or the cloth and a screwdriver to pry the panel from the other side, making sure that the hex hole is seated on the push pin so it doesn't slip when your pushing -> Once that pops out, move on the the next push pin along the top and repeat like before -> Next, use the long screwdriver or a shorter screwdriver (with a cloth in the way to prevent the screwdriver scraping anything) to carefully try and push the bottom left plastic push pin while prying the whole panel up from one end (this can be tricky as it is slightly tucked away but it still accessible) -> Repeat with the last push pin along the top with either the multi-bit screwdriver or a flat head screwdriver, again placing the cloth in the way for protection while manually prying the panel off from the other side -> Next I would place the cloth over the gap between the body panel and the fender panel/garnish and stick your long screwdriver into the cloth so you are pushing the cloth covered screwdriver in-between the panels -> Push through while prying the panel off and if you like, twisting the screwdriver head to give you more leverage and you should pop the last bottom 2 push pins -> Repeat this carefully with the last bit as you try and peel off the panel that is now only being stuck on by the very sticky double sided foam tape. It may help to minimise the amount of cloth covering the screwdriver but not too little that you end up scratching the body panel. -> While you are trying to pry the last bit off, use your fingers to pry and pull on the other end of the panel (which requires the door to be open for you to access that end of the panel) and along the bottom edge of the panel too. Just work you way around the end of the panel trying to pull it off in all directions while still having the long screwdriver and cloth coming in from the front and continue until it peels off -> Once the front side fender is off, peel off any foam pads that might still be on the body panel around the holes of the push pins (these are just cushion pads and are not sticky) and then start to remove any excess sticky foam tape that might remains with your flat piece of plastic like an old bank card Give the area a wipe down as it'll be quite dirty under there and then simply replace with either a recoloured or new panel. Replacing with the same panel again will require you to clean the sticky foam on the plastic panel side and stick some fresh new double sided foam tape. New panels will already have this on so just peel of the protective cover and position the panel onto the body panel using the holes at the front first and working your way back again.

Welcome to the club!

Welcome to the club!

Sorry again to hear this Paul and sorry to hear that you've had another accident but lucky for you it was the Yaris (don't know if you remember Kristov4, he had his fixed then got rear ended shortly after picking her up if I recall correctly). Are you just fixing it or will you be getting RRG to add any new bits? @DanJ - To answer your question, if you bulk by insurance from Morris, you don't have to give tracks and dates straight away but it might exclude some tracks.

Congrats and welcome to the club!

Congrats and welcome to the club!

I've got a bold patch on my boot liner now....I made the mistake of using heavy duty Velcro on my tool box, after removing it a couple of times, it pulled most of the luff off the boot liner I've been meaning to get myself an elastic strap that I can slot into the boot liner and around the toolbox or something.

Me too please Sent from my EDI-AL10 using Tapatalk

I'd like to think that if you take the car to RRG, that they'd be able to fit the bumper properly so you done have the gap, it's a lot of money just to have the bumper fitted properly.

I've attended a couple of CAT Driver Training courses and an activity that I have performed a couple of times now is high speed braking and threshold braking (holding the brake pedal on the limit just before the ABS kicks in) and the instructor get's you to do it without holding the steering wheel, believe me, the car should stop straight, no veering at all. Also, the car is RWD, there's no torque steer when accelerating (if that's what the dealer believes should be normal) so either tell the Derby dealer to learn more about the car and investigate in more depth, or travel further afield to RRG in Macclesfield and let someone who know's what they're doing check out the car (my local dealer turned down my bass to fix a rattle that I asked them to look into, I now travel 2 hours each way to RRG for any service, MOT, warranty work and the odd mod here and there too.

If you've already got them and you want to bling up your engine bay then by all means get them fitted, the only thing I'd add to that is the main pulley can be a pain to remove, it might need the front bumper off so the mechanic can get an impact gun on it, but I've heard others not having any problems and didn't need an impact gun to remove the main bolt. If you haven't already got the pulley's then I wouldn't bother.

Mine started knocking from the front drivers side (not as bad as that though, usually when you turn the wheel it knocks but it would also come and go), RRG Macclesfield couldn't find the issue so I ended up changing them for something else. I've still got them and I've been meaning to have a play and look at them, see if I can find the issue with the shocks themselves but I've not had the time and they've just been sat in the garage ever since. I've spoken to Driftworks who are the UK master distributors of HSD coilovers and this is what they said: "The HSD dampers cannot be rebuilt, however if a replacement is certainly needed we would be able to supply one (£136 for an inverted monopro damper, £143.5 including delivery to yourself). As a newer kit we are unlikely to have spares of the dampers in stock but can be ordered in directly from HSD. These orders from HSD are without a set ETA and can easily take towards 6 weeks to arrive dependent on their shipment dates." If you are interested, you could have my set and swap out each corner to see which one is the culprit?

I've had them for about 3 years now and I've had not had any problems with them at all and I've not heard anyone with them having any issues due to this who harmonic dampening malarkey......but I'll be honest......not worth the money. Yes it does make it rev a lil quicker which can help with rev matching but initially it'll make it a lil tricky cos you need to get used to the change in timing (i.e. when to raise the clutch at the right revs) but if you're already used to it then they're really not that beneficial.

If you haven't already seen, there is another group session in September if you wish to join some of the members here:

Sorry to hear this Nigel

Sorry to hear that [emoji20] [emoji23] Sent from my EDI-AL10 using Tapatalk

Welcome to the club, sadly, I'm not sure you'll be able to fit a new steering wheel to an old car, the head unit is different but who knows, don't know if anyone has attempted it. I know you can't retro fit the new instrument panel (the new digital display on the speedo that now reports oil temps and stuff) as a race team tried it out recently with no success.

Congrats and welcome to the club!

Congrats and welcome to the club!

Congrats and welcome to the club!

Congrats and welcome to the club!

Congrats and welcome to the club!