will300

I'm not aware of anyone that is running a kit above Stage 3. (Ignoring Adrian @ Fensport) A while ago (like 2 years ago) I spoke with Adrian and he gave me a quote for a Stage 2 turbo kit, here's the cost: Item Price Stage 1 Turbo Kit - Base Kit - Ceramic Coated - GT86 / BRZ £2,999.00 Avo Turboworld Race Breather System - GT86 / BRZ £199.00 Forge Dump Valve - GT86 / BRZ £110.00 GT86 / BRZ 3 bar map Sensor £89.95 GT86 OEM Toyota Oil Filter £8.62 GT86 Drain Plug Gasket £0.88 CFS 0w30 NT 5L Millers Fully Synthetic Engine Oil With Nano Tec £63.95 CFS 0w30 NT 1L Millers Fully Synthetic Engine Oil With Nano Tec £13.95 Turbo Remap - Fensport GT86 - License included £575.00 GT86 Steel Flywheel - Xtreme 1 222.00 £222.00 GT86 HD single organic sprung clutch kit – Xtreme £338.00 CRX 75w90 1 NT 1 Litre Millers Gear Oil £40.50 Labour £900.00 Sub Total £5,560.85 VAT £1,112.17 Grand Total £6,673.02 Not knowing you car, you'll also want a full exhaust system and upgraded brakes at the minimum. This will support over 300hp, I think the limit of the fuel injectors is something like 330hp. However anymore than 300hp and your pushing your luck with the engine.

To be fair to @Lucas@PartBox he did post it in the Social Events forum last month....

Would you be willing to sell the charger separately?

1: 2: 3: 4:

Depends really, I wouldn't say one location gave more benefit than another. Rear arches definitely helped, but you need to do the whole car to get the full benefit. I still need to do the backseats and the floor, but it's too cold & wet now to spend the whole weekend outside.

No point using the white sound deadening in the doors due to the foam on the door cards, plus it might catch on the window mechanism. I used about 8 or 9 tiles & 1 box (2 sheets) of absorber foam per door. I'd do the doors first and see how you get on.

949 Racing wheels are 7.3kgs in 17x8, so very light for a flow formed wheel. I would be will to sell them, if your interested. Here's a couple of photo's:

Get some G-Techniq Nanotech glass polish, it will remove any existing polish or coating. https://gtechniq.com/products/auto/perfect/exterior/paint/g4-nanotech-glass-polish

Super Resonated: Normal Resonated: Both together:

Without knowing how you use the car it's hard to say, do you do track days or is it purely a daily driver? Do you feel like there is a deficiency with any part of the car? Assuming you track the car, the one thing missing from you list is braking. I'd suggest some uprated pads and fluid.

@Lauren, all BRZ's have them next to the headunit.

Have you tried, unlocking the car, disconnecting the battery then locking the door manually?

Should you need everything F&R Discs & Pads: You'd probably want either of these: 1: https://www.torqen.uk/toyota/toyota-gt86/brakes/pack-deals/4973-toyota-gt86-stoptech-street-axle-pack-93447006.html 2: https://www.torqen.uk/toyota/toyota-gt86/brakes/pack-deals/4193-toyota-gt86-stoptech-front-and-rear-upgrade-slotted-sport-brake-kit-97744016.html

Myself & @Deacon meet up today to perform some quick noise tests and get a couple of videos of the new exhaust. Here is some DB readings from the exhaust - These are measured using a proper decibel meter, however there will be some variation due to wind noise and other vehicles. Static 1m Away - Center of Exhaust: 101.5db Peak / Blip 90.4db stable at 4.5k 63db warm idle Static 1m Away - Side of the car: 91.3db Peak / Blip 80db stable at 4.5k Drive by - Near (Curbside): Normal cars: 70-85db BRZ: 88db BRZ: 3rd-2nd downshift: 91.9bb Drive by - Far (1 lane from curbside): Normal cars: 70db BRZ: 79db BRZ: 83db at constant high revs 6-6.5k RPM BRZ - 2nd-3rd up shift: 92.6db Inside: Cabin windows down up to 7k RPM: 86.2 db Cabin windows up to 5.5k RPM: 84.2db Normal cruising windows down: 73db Normal cruising windows up: 72db These seem like decent readings for a catless manifold, 200cell race cat and 2.5" exhaust. The static and drive by decibel readings should be fine for Bedford Autodrome, however the peak on gear change could cause an issue. The readings were taken relativity close to the roadside and the noise meters at Bedford are a couple of meters away from the track, which should hopefully help. Here's a couple of on-board videos - the microphone is attached to the rear number plate. Through the rev range: Normal driving - between 50 & 60mph:

Update: 08/09/18 - End of year track prep Twelve months ago myself and a few others did a couple of track days in August, of which two of those days were at Bedford Autodrome. Unfortunately the 2nd time at Bedford got cut short due to my car being black flagged for noise, at the time my exhaust consisted of ACE Manifold & AVO Non-Res Catback (More about this can be read here: http://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/topic/4097-will300s-subaru-brz-build/?page=3&tab=comments#comment-88143) Anyway earlier this year I decided to remove my AVO exhaust and replace it with the standard cat back. The plan was to then get a track friendly custom exhaust made up over the next couple of months. Unfortunately various issue's happened over the next 6 months which meant this never happened. Come August I realised my car needed its 5th year service, plus I'd ordered various parts which also needed fitting in preparation for the next lot of track days. I therefore decide to get everything done a the same time and finally get the custom exhaust I wanted made up. After a couple of phone calls to various place, I decided to go with a very busy specialist who could fit all the parts, service the car and make an exhaust to match my requirements. My exhaust requirements consisted off: 2.5" Catback with a Y pipe design 2 separate back boxes A large center resonator Catted front pipe with a 200cell race cat and a resonator. Track friendly - Most important bit Interestingly the specialist had a similar design already planned for their own car. The car was then booked in and after 3 weeks the car was ready for collection. Here's the list of upgrades that have been installed. Engine and Exhaust: Custom 2.5" Front cat pipe with Resonator Custom 2.5" Resonated Catback exhaust Hel Oil Cooler SPA Design - Oil Temp & Oil Pressure Gauge (Block8Head guage holder) Cosworth Sump baffle Cusco Sump plug HEL Performance braided clutch line STi Engine Mounts Exterior: Verus Engineering Race Splitter with end plates Future modifications - I planned on getting these installed with the above, but due to various reason I changed my mind: Verus Engineering Bonnet vents STi Rear Brembo's As you can see from the upgrades I had fitted alot of these will help benefit the car when on track. This should mean I can run longer stints without the car over heating. Unfortunately most of these modifications are hidden away in the engine bay, so there are no pretty pictures. However here are some photo's of the exhaust system I had made up. I'll also get some updated photo's of the car in a couple of weeks. I'm planning on meeting with @Deacon over the next couple of days to sound test the exhaust and possibly get a couple of videos, so expect another update soon.

@Lowe, I'm now planning on going to this. However its probably not a good idea when I've got no money and the RTX 2080Ti has just come out.

No, you won't be able to combine a TD mid pipe to a cobra back box (muffler). Why don't you just get a TD resonated system? Here's a couple of photo's showing the difference (I've highlighted the join so you can see it's physically different): Cobra Exhaust: Tuning Developments Exhaust:

You'd be better off asking for advise on FT86Club, here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=49953a020aacfaaeec8293a60d67b503&f=88 As this is predominantly a UK owners forum, no-one will have any experience with the OFT tablet as we all use EcuTek.

@Deacon that's a bloody brilliant comparison.

I managed to get a place on the Hyundai driving experience for the i30N, I'm hoping it'll be a good day out not a 5 minute test drive. (https://nthdegree.hyundai.co.uk/)

Welcome @Tristor, looks like you've got a really good setup there. Lauren, the AP Sprint kit that Tristor is running a completely different type of caliper to ours.

It's probably been digitally recorded by Toyota, you can check here: https://www.toyota.com/owners/parts-service/history

These guy have them in stock apparently: https://www.bassjunkies.com/is165toy.html Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

That's not entirely correct, you need to modify the crash bar.

I gently pulled it, and used a sharp knife to cut the adhesive. The first door picture shows how far down I pulled it down, you don't need to remove it. Once I finished the sound deadening I simply pushed it back into place, rubbing the adhesive with my finger. The current temperature helps as it means the adhesive is really soft and stretchy.