will300

I can't really add anything other than what I've previously said. I wouldn't say they were too aggressive thought. Only thing I can't really comment on is disc life with them.

This was on there FB feed from a while back. It still look almost close to touching.

Will you be doing any track time? Not that it makes much difference, but you'll need slightly different supporting mods.

The TD turbo kit is £4500, not £4000. The £4000 pirce is there black friday price which has now expired. If you've already got the TD N/A tuning package, then to upgrade to the turbo kit is: £3850.00

If your going to build a kit yourself or want to customise an existing kit, you can get a sandwich plate with a 45° output, like: https://trackformula.co.uk/product/racinglines-oil-cooler-thermostatic-sandwich-plate-adapter/ https://turbozentrum.co.uk/Universal-Sandwich-Plate-with-Thermostat-and-Sensor-Ports-M20x15-and-3-4-16UNF?curr=GBP&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4EuF71gVGeUb2QneHCoxY06uO-EDIyaPaByZrEKPjLTUbWoU_OG2h2waAk--EALw_wcB For reference the Jackson Racing kit for our cars comes with a sandwich plate with this design. When I spoke to Rogue about using AN Banjo fittings on the oil cooler, they advised against using them as they are known to leak.

Ah I forgot about Carbotech brake pads, I should add them to my list. Only thing I'd say with the AX6 is they have a working temperature range upto 537°, which might be abit low for track use. I really want to get some of that brake disc temperature paint, but it's so bloody expensive. I've not had any noise from the grooved discs, other than the odd noise when reversing. Clearance should be fine on that size wheel.

Assuming @3782mc doesn't mind me sharing this, he was getting irregular wear on the discs and they were leaving noticeable groves on the rotors, ones you could feel.

Assuming your going for the 330mm kit with CP9200 calipers, there is massive amount of choice when it comes to pads. Here are the pads I've used: Ferrodo DS2500 - Good pad, outstanding life but lacked feel and abit lacking when cold on daily use. Endless MX72 - Excellent daily pad, will stand up to very light track work. I managed to over heated them on track so decided to switch back to the Ferrodo, before fitting the PFC 08's. PFC 08 - Best pad I've tried so far and the pad I'm currently using, excellent daily charactistics (works when cold), and has much better feel compare the the Ferrodo and has the best bite. It will last easily last for a 1hour session, being an endurance pad it should last even longer than 1 hour but I've not been out for longer than an hour. As for brake lines, I'm using the ones my kit came with which I got nearly 5 years ago and they're still ok. You should be able to use any lines for the GT86 and it's just a standard banjo fitting on the caliper, atleast I'm 99% sure it is. With regards to discs, I went for the genuine AP Racing ones as originally Reyland used remanufactured disc and the AP Racing discs had better internal cooling vains. As for the face type I'd recommend you go for straight groved, I'm aware of a few people that have had some issues with the Reyland J hook discs, @3782mc being one. Here's a list of all the available pad choices for the CP9200 caliper, that I can think of: Carbon Lorraine: Part No: 5004W50T17 Compounds Available: RC5+, RC6, RC6E, RC8, RC8R Approx Price: £210 Available from: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/cl-brakes/cl-brakes-browse-by-caliper/ap-racing/ap-racing-5200-caliper-cp3215-d50-pads-cl-brakes-race-brake-pads.html EBC: Part No: Various Compounds Available: Bluestuff, Orangestuff, Yellowstuff, RP-1, RP-X Approx Price: £90 Available from: https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/race-caliper-parts/ap-racing/cp9200/24000159 Endless: Part No: RCP015 Compounds Available: MX72, MX72 Plus, ME20, ME22, CC-Rg, CC43, M-Sport Approx Price: £200 Available from: https://www.nengun.com/endless/ Ferodo: Part No: FRP216 Compounds Available: DS2500, DS3000, DS1.11, DSUNO Approx Price: £150 Available from: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/ferodo/ap-racing-caliper/ap-racing-5200-caliper-cp3215-d50-pads-ferodo-race-brake-pads.html Mintex: Part No: MDB1292 Compounds Available: M1144, M1155, M1166 Approx Price: £102 Available from: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/mintex/ap-racing-calipers-mintex/ap-racing-5200-caliper-cp3215-d50-pads-mintex-race-brake-pads.html Pagid Racing: Part No: 1361 Compounds Available: RSL1, RSL29, RST1, RST2, RST3 ,RST4, RST5, RS14, RSH42 Approx Price: £102 Available from: https://www.clutchstop.co.uk/products/pagid-e1361-rs29-brake-pads.html PBS: Part No: 8223PR Compounds Available: ProRace Approx Price: £130 Available from: https://www.tegiwaimports.com/brands/pbs/pbs-prorace-brake-pads-ap-racing-caliper-cp5200-cp3215-d50.html Performance Friction (PFC): Part No: 7767 Compounds Available: Z-Rated, 08, 11 Approx Price: £150 Available from: https://www.part-box.com/pfc-7767-z-rated-brake-pad-set-7767-10?search=pfc 7767&description=true Project Mu: Part No: F1076 Compounds Available: Type PS, HC-CS, HC+, R777, R999 Approx Price: £150 Available from: https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/?q=F1076 Winmax: Part No: WMP814-17 Compounds Available: W3, W4, W5, W6.5, WN3 Approx Price: £235 Available from: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/winmax-brakes/ap-racing-calipers-winmax/ap-racing-5200-caliper-cp3215-d50-pads-winmax-brake-pads.html Hope that helps. p.s. Go for Red calipers, why buy a big brake kit if not to show it off?

You can get the gaskets from: Manifold to Engine - Gasket with fitting kit: https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=12009 Manifold to Engine - Just gasket: https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=12008 Manifold to overpipe / Overpipe to 2nd cat - Gasket: https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=12010 No, you don't need to. You should only think about it if you track the car alot, but then I'd look at getting the manifold ceramic coated or have thermomet applied.

Offset in simple terms is how far the wheel sits in the arch. A lower offset (+35) will sit out further than a higher offset (+46). Using this calculator you can adjust the wheel dimensions to see how it fits on the car. https://www.ft86motorsports.com/wheelitfit/ With reguards to the above photo, I just clicked on the first colour I saw. Although doing a quick search if not sure if they do the Ultraleggera with a +35 offset in Matt Graphite. You'd have to speak to DemonTweeks directly.

Welcome to the club @Mani I'd firstly start by deciding what route you want to take the car before buying modifications, there isn't really much point buying wheels / suspension for a stock bodied car if you plan to go wide body as the fitment you'd want will be different. With regards to track use, the stock car is perfectly acceptable. The only mods I'd suggest initally are a set of good tyres and brake pads.

The first model year of the Aero (might be the 1st and 2nd year cars) came with the OZ wheels, which was a limited OEM run. After this first (or second) year Toyota swapped the Aero wheels to a generic 86 wheel. They weren't available to buy though distributors which is why you can't find any with a ET46 offset. If your looking to buy a brand new set, these are the wheel specs I'd go with:

@Faizaan it's usually best to email or call Amber and mention you are from the 86 Drivers club. email: sales@amber-performance.co.uk tel: 01582 664 735

On UK spec car's, no there's isnt any with blue stitching. There was only the red stitching until the facelift version, when a couple of other interior colours were released. These are very rare though. In the US and possibly Japan there are some special editions with various different colour interiors and stitching on both pre and post facelift cars. If you search for Subaru BRZ Series Blue you can see this. Photo attached. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Yes you'll need to remove the brake light before removing the shelf. The rattle could come from a number of places, 1. As you've already stated against the glass. 2. The brake light housing is in two parts that push fit together plastic on plastic. 3. The power cable to the light as this goes through the lower plastic half and the metal shelf. Not that it's recommended but you could remove the light and go for a short drive to see if that makes any difference.

You just need to remove the 4 clips on the front and lift / bend it in the middle and the piece will pull out, you could pull the sides on the C pillar off to make it a little easier. As for the shelf deck, it's not flat and there is some electronics in there, so covering it with 1 piece of foam won't be easy. I just stuck some sound deadening and insultation foam in there, see below. I find most of the rattle comes from the 3rd brake light housing, at the time of doing the sound deadening I had an Intec high mount light, so I didn't get any rattle, I've now put the stock 3rd brake light back and the rattle is terrible.

Toyota GR Yaris - 25 Minute Test Drive Review Hello Everyone, Here is my quick review of the GR Yaris, based on a 25minute test drive. Which was conducted on the outskirts of Birmingham, so mostly consisted of city roads and dual carriageway, with lots of pot holes. Because of this I was unable to push the car handling and cornering ability. For reference the weather was dry but the roads were wet from lots of rain the night before. Short Version: The car is good and well rounded. It has excellent power delivery from the 3 cylinder engine. Lacking exhaust sound but you can make turbo noises, exhaust would be first mod. Stiff but compliant suspension, not crashy. Comfortable but seat is too high and letter box effect in the center of the windscreen. Fairly priced considering the technology. Overall: 7/10 Long Version: Exterior My initial thoughts on seeing the Yaris in the showroom are, it's small, looks well built, the front end is very aggressive with the large grill and cooling vent, the side has massive wide arches which really add to the character of the car. The most disappointing part of the car is definitely the rear end as it's lacking any kind of style. The wheels are made by BBS Japan and forged, they actually have the specification markings on the inner bead, as in it literally says 18x8.5 +45 (might not be exactly this), BBS Japan, Made in Japan, etc. A nice touch for those who like this kind of detail or looking for the info on the wheel specs. The Brakes are massive and fill the 18" wheels nicely, they are a two piece design with a bolted hat and rotor, so should make getting replacements relatively in-expensive. The showroom car was in solid white, this is a nice and clean colour and showed the cars details very well. I compared it to a Pearl White regular Yaris that was next to it, the Pearl was nice but I don't think it'd work on the GR. The test car was a Scarlet Flare red GR Yaris with Circuit Pack. I didn't find the colour that exciting when initally looking at it, however I passed the car on the way home whilst it was on another test drive and it did looks good on the road. I'm not sure what my preferred colour choice would be based on the options available. Owning a WR Blue BRZ my ideal colour would be blue again if it was available. Interior The interior has a modern feel and is well put together and looks very nice, there are some cheap plastics and the dash cluster is very plain, think of it like a 90's STi cluster. It really looks odd compared to the rest of the dash, as that has a nice modern look. I definitely think a digital dash would have been better, if a regular Yaris can have this why can't the GR? At-least it should be an option. However upon driving the main central digital display was nice and clear, easy to read and understand. It's display output can be adjusted by using the controls on the left side of the steering wheel, you can see the current speed, mpg, turbo pressure, tyre pressure, power output to each wheel and adjust the various systems of the car, i.e. the lane assist or emergency braking. For the test drive I left the display on current speed. The steering wheel also had controls for the radar cruise control, audio and phone system. The seats were very nice and comfortable, but as reported by a number of people they sit very high, apparently there is up-to 60mm of hight adjustment, but even on the lowest setting this was too high for me. Also the main infotainment screen and rear view mirror take up a lot of wind screen space, giving a letter box feel to the center of the windscreen. If the seat was an 1" lower this wouldn't be an issue for myself. However before my test drive I was talking with another customer who was also interested in the GR, he was probably over 6 foot, we discussed this issue and I can definitely see it being more of a problem for him and the taller drivers. After about 5 minutes in the car the seating position felt natural and I was used to the letter box effect and could happily accept this compromise. I didn't try the back seat space, but I had a quite look in the boot and it's tiny so bare this in mind if you need some storage space. Test drive: Power Delivery - As I'm sure most of you are aware the GR Yaris has a 260hp, 3 cylinder, 1.6L engine, and it's powerful more than I expected from a 3 cylinder. My only previous experience of a 3 cylinder engine is a 1.0L in a VW Up, the Yaris is nothing like that. The delivery is nice and smooth with a good amount of torque. There is little to no turbo lag and it's happy to be revved out. Although peak power is in the middle of the rev range. I might have given the clutch a hard time on the first pull major pull away, upon joining a dual carriageway from a roundabout as I wasn't expecting it to pull as well as it did. The power makes it very easy to reach the speed limit and go beyond it. As for the clutch other than me getting used to it (mainly getting used to driving a car that actually has some power), the pedal was good and firm and didn't require a lot of effort to press. Suspension - The car as mentioned previous had the circuit pack fitted, this has stiffer suspension than the standard/convenience pack cars. You could definitely tell it was stiff, but it wasn't bone jarring / teeth rattling like some other cars (Fiesta ST). It is well damped which is what makes a massive difference when it comes to suspension, so much so I'd say it has better dampers than the Tein Flex A's on my BRZ, as it was very compliant on the rutted roads, with no torque steer when putting the power down. However I'd probably look at changing the suspension to a set of coilovers fairly quickly after purchase of the car, as I'd like a bit more refinement from them, perhaps the standard suspension would be more akin to my ideal setup. Although with coilovers the balance could be fine tuned. Chassis - The chassis felt solid and didn't have any sort of body flex, I could tell during the limited corning that the body was nice and flat with little roll. As for the steering, it was perfectly acceptable and you could tell which directions the wheels were pointing, ideally I'd like to see how the steering behaved when on track to get a better feel for it. However it does lack feedback compared to the 86/BRZ, to be fair to the Yaris though I've not tested another car with the same steering feedback as the 86/BRZ, even my Mazda MX5 MK1 didn't feel as precise. Brakes / Wheels & Tyres - The circuit pack cars are fitted with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tyres as standard. On the wet roads the car had plenty of grip and traction and I never once thought I could use more grip, unfortunately I didn't really get chance to try changing the AWD drive modes to see if this would have made any difference to the traction levels. It would be interesting to see how the car reacts on the PS4S in proper wintry conditions. The brakes as standard are massive, even so they work amazing from cold without issue. However like the steering, the feedback from the brake pedal wasn't as exact as my modified BRZ's, it does have a nice consistent feel and not over servoed like a VW's. Noise - The car was quiet inside, there is definitely less road noise than compared with my own BRZ which has added sound deadening. However the worst part of the car is the exhaust sound or lack of sound, I put the windows down for the last 5 minutes of the drive and you could barely hear the car even when static revving it. This is highly disappointing and whilst a 3 cylinder isn't exactly a screaming V8 I would have expected some noise, after all it is based on a rally car. I'd definitely recommend ordering an exhaust system to go on the car immediately. I guess this is why the car has the artificial engine sound through the speakers. The only positive from the quiet exhaust is that you can hear the turbo, which is fun when flooring it and lifting off then hearing the turbo vent to atmosphere. Final Thoughts: Overall it's a good car and fairly priced when you consider all the performance technology it features, with the 0% finance currently available it makes the car a very tempting proposition. However it's not as involving as the 86/BRZ and lacks that extra feel of precision. It's therefore not a car I'd look at replacing my BRZ with. I am tempted to order one as a second car due to it's features and uniqueness which I hope will mean it holds value quite well. If I was to score it out of 10, I'd probably say a 7 is fair based on my 25minute test drive. I'm looking forward to reading @Lauren's inital review to see if any of my thoughts match her's. Thanks for reading. Will p.s. If your thinking of ordering, the current expected delivery date is June 2021.

For what it's worth, here's a couple of alternatives coatings from G-Techniq & Gyeon Firstly clean the glass with a good glass cleaners, ideally you want to use a glass polish like G-Techniq G4 Glass Polish: https://www.gtechniq.co.uk/shop/auto/glass-metal/g4-nanotech-glass-polish/ Coating - Quick Application: G-Techniq G5 Water Repellent for Glass: https://www.gtechniq.co.uk/shop/auto/glass-metal/g5-water-repellent-coating-for-glass-and-perspex/ Gyeon Quickview: https://gyeonquartz.com/product/quickview/ Coating - Advanced: G-Techniq G1 ClearVision: https://www.gtechniq.co.uk/shop/auto/glass-metal/g1-clearvision-smart-glass/ Gyeon View: https://gyeonquartz.com/product/view-2/

Here's a dyno graph taken from the VideoOption youtube channel.

There are two Brembo pad numbers that will work with the PP Brembo, these are: WVA 23325 - https://www.bremboparts.com/asiapacific/en/catalogue/pad/P_09_004 WVA 23092 - https://www.bremboparts.com/asiapacific/en/catalogue/pad/P54039N Couple of different pad options: PFC - Pad No: 1001 - Compound: Z-Rated: https://www.part-box.com/pfc-1001-11-z-rated-front-brake-pads-mitsubishi-evo-5-9-impreza-wrx-sti-350z-tesla-model-s-1001-11?search=pfc 1001&description=true Pagid - Pad No: 2487 - : https://www.kamracing.co.uk/mitsubishi-lancer-evo-pagid-brake-pads-evo-vii-viii-ix-brembo.html PBS - Pad No: 8017PR: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/pbs-performance-brake-solutions/subaru/subaru-impreza-iii-gr-gh-g3-pbs-prorace-brake-pads-2-5-wrx-sti.html WinMax - Pad No: WMP370-14.5: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/winmax-brakes/winmax-subaru/subaru-impreza-ii-gd-gg-winmax-race-brake-pads-2-0-wrx-sti-2001-to-2005-brembo-caliper.html Carbon Lorraine - Pad No: 4066: https://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/cl-brakes/cl-brakes-browse-by-car/subaru/subaru-impreza-cl-brakes-brake-pads-wrx-2008.html

Agreed, I don't see the point in changing the pads for such a small issue. For reference my BBK also squeaks when reserving some times. The common brake squeak issue is with the regular 2 piston calipers not the Brembo's.

To clarify your issue is only when reversing?

Finally AP buddies at last, just to convince @willclarke now.....

They also do a 17x9 +38, which was the size I thought they did and a much more sensible choice. For some reason though they don't have that listed on their webshop. They also do a 17x7.5 +35 & 18x8 +35, both of which are decent sizes.

Protrack do Gold, just in 17x9 +30. Which is probably abit too aggressive