will300

Protrack wheels are ran by Root Racing / Tim Shricks BRZ in NLS (VLN) and also APEX Nurburgring on their rental car. TMG/Gazoo Racing tend to run ATS wheels on their latest 86's, formerly OZ wheels. Also you can now get the Protrack wheels from Tegiwa: https://www.tegiwaimports.com/wheels-tyres/protrack/protrack-alloy-wheel-one-track-edition.html

It tends to be the heat that kills them, just buy some heat resistant foil and cover them. For reference when one of mine had issues it was actually on the 1st proper track day (dry day) after I had the spark plugs changed. I've sinced replaced the possibly dodgy one with a used one and protected them all with foil and I've not had any issues since.

Option 1 or 2 are the best choices. Personally I'd go Option 2. Option 1: This is probably best if you are going to keep stock suspension or want a slightly lighter wheel: Option 2: Will have a better fitment when lowered (1" drop and 1degree camber) and with some camber:

Introduction: Hello everyone, I've decided it's about time I did a proper build thread for my 2nd Subaru BRZ as thing are now starting to get more interesting. My plan is to build a fast road car with some track focused additions. The car is my daily vehicle so I'm not planning to strip it out and turn it into a track monster. Just something that is easily to live with during the week but gets thrashed at the weekend. Thanks for looking Will Here is my current list of modifications: Engine and Exhaust: ACE Header - CS400 Manifold – Ceramic Coated by Performance 1 Coatings in Volcanic Black Rogue Motorsport 2.5" Front pipe with CAT and Resonator Rogue Motorsport 2.5" Resonated Catback exhaust Hel 19 Row Oil Cooler SPA Design - Oil Temp & Oil Pressure Gauge (Block8Head guage holder) Cosworth Sump baffle Cusco Sump plug Perrin 3” Big MAF Cold Air Intake Tuning Developements Ecutek remap HEL Performance braided clutch line STi Engine Mounts Previously Installed: AVO 2.5 Non-Resonated Cat Back Exhaust (Previous) Tomei Type 80 Titanium 3” Exhaust (Previous) Stock 2nd CAT (Previous) Cosworth Low Temp Thermostat (Removed - Standard item refitted) Suspension, Chassis & Brakes: Tein Flex A Coilovers – Approx 35mm drop Summit Rear Control Arms Whiteline Anti-Roll bar kit - BSK016 (F: 20mm - R: 16mm) Whiteline Front Roll Centre / Bump Steer Correction Kit Custom AP Racing Big Brake kit by Reyland Motorsport - AP Racing CP9200 Calipers, AP Racing 330x28mm discs Subaru WRX STi Rear Brembo with DBA Rear Brake Disc - DBA42656-10 PFC 08 Front Brake Pads Endless MX72 Rear Brake Pads Hose Technic Braided Brake lines Cusco strut tower bar with master cylinder brace Perrin shifter bush Powerflex rear diff mount Left & Right bushes Powerflex front and rear subframe inserts MTEC Shift Springs MTEC Clutch Spring 3" Shift Extension from Ebay STi Steering rack bolt upgraded Cusco Steering rack bush Cusco Steering rack brace Cusco Brake pedal support Wheels and tires: Current Setup: Wheels: Rays Gramlights 57CR 17x9 +38 in Gold Tyres: Michlin Pilot Spot 4 in size: 245/40/17 Spare: Wheels:949Racing Wheels 17x8 +40 in Black Tyres: Yokohama Advan AD08RS in size: 225/45/17 Winter Setup: n/a Previous Setup's: Wheels: Japan Racing JR29's 17x8 +35 in Bronze Tyres: Michelin Pilot Sports 4 in size: 225/45/17 Wheels: Rota Grid Drifts 17x9 +42 in White Tyres: ContiSport Contact5's in size: 245/40/17 Wheels: Japan Racing JR18 17x8 +35 in Custom Bronze colour Tyres: Goodyear Winter Tyres in size: 215/45/17 Exterior: Tinted rear window & rear side windows Debadged Rear Spoiler Delete Voltex Type 1S - 1480mm wing TRD Fender Fin in D4S Black Rays Dura-Nuts L42 Blue wheel nuts Verus Engineering Race Splitter with end plates Verus Engineering Non-Aggressive Diffuser Verus Engineering Mustang GT-550 Bonnet Vents Subaru STi Side Skirts and Rear spats Valenti Revo Smoked Rear Lights Valenti bumper / reverse light Valenti front bumper side marker lights OEM 17+ Shark Fin in D4S Black Rogue Motorsports windscreen banner Previous: Genuine SARD LSR GT Wing (Previous) White side stripes (Previous) Interior: Alpine INE-W925R Head unit with Navigation Cobra Nogaro bucket seat with custom Rogue Motorsport Seat mounts (using OEM sliders) Perrin Cam Solenoid covers Schroth Rallye 3 ASM Harness Top Sage Bonnet Struts Possible Future Modifications: See: https://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/forums/topic/4097-will300s-subaru-brz-build/?do=findComment&comment=115677 Pictures: Current: Previous: Dyno Plot - Current: ACE Header / AVO Exhaust / Cosworth Panel Filter / Fensport Remap - Green ACE Header / AVO Exhaust / Perrin 3" Big MAF Cold Air Intake / TD Dyno Remap - Red Dyno Plot - Previous: Stock Car / Cosworth Panel Filter - Green ACE Header / AVO Exhaust / Cosworth Panel Filter / Fensport Remap - Purple

Wow that's some difference, nice job.

Thankfully mine has never had this issue. @Neil-h are you after gauge pods or actual guages? Your post doesn't make sense as you ask about pods but then talk about guages?

Interestingly I had a Cusco master cyclinder brace, I then swapped to a Cusco strut bar with a built in MCB and noticed an improvement in pedal feel. More so than when I fitted the Cusco MCB.

There is a good thread on the other forum: https://www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk/forum/40-faults-fixes/5608-rattles-thread.html

FYI, Michelins have quite soft sidewalls.

If your still on the stock wheels, just run 215's with a better tyre. As @SimonG68 says either the Michelin PS4 or Maxxis VS5. Wider tyres doesn't directly equal more grip. I have run atleast 3 or possibly 4 sets of 225/45 tyres, but only on a 8" rim, 7" is too narrow really.

See: https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal/resources/jsp/siviewer/Toyota_86_2017_rm_index.html > Brake > Brake System (Other) > Brake Fluid > Bleeding. Rogue Motorsport always bleed the master cylinder on my car when the fluid is changed, and it's the second step in that tech manual (before bleeding the calipers).

Pedal definitely shouldn't feel squishy. Did you bleed the master cyclinder as well? I don't recieve any humming.

Welcome @Bourney67, nice choice.

Most likely it the cam plate, it's not a serious issue and is quite common. There are a couple of options, remove the existing plate and reseal it or buy a replacement with an upgraded o-ring seal. Upgrade is probably a better option. Couple of upgrade options: https://www.fensport.co.uk/collections/toyota-gt86-2012-to-2016/products/racer-x-cam-blanking-plate-black-gt86-brz https://www.sumopower.com/Brands/TORQUE-SOLUTION/Torque-Solution-Billet-Aluminum-Cam-Plate-Black-Subaru-BR-TS-CAM-PLTB

245/40 is perfect on a 17". You want the 35 profile on 18".

Welcome @Throbbe, that's a lovely looking car.

Love the wheels, seeing them makes me regret not getting a set, but they're so bloody expensive and they don't do them in gold. 😄 As for the tail lights, I personally like the look of the smoked one.

All of the 17+ models are very refined and have alot of the issues fixed from earlier cars. However if servicing and general maintenance is going to be tight, perhaps look at a slightly order and cheaper car with a better finance rate, i.e:

You'll be fine with that type of wing. For reference filling the holes on the boot should cost you in the region of £250, so alot cheaper than a decent carbon boot lid.

No idea if these are any good: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Gt86-OEM-Fog-Lights/224105630978?hash=item342dbc8d02:g:AQgAAOSwv4JfDegQ or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2014-MK1-SUBARU-BRZ-Front-Left-N-S-Fog-Light-Lamp-With-Grille-632969/363068796744?fits=Car+Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ABRZ&hash=item5488962f48%3Ag%3AF7QAAOSwW99fK-MQ&LH_ItemCondition=4

Fair play for providing a breakdown of all the the costs involved and all the updates 👍 Definitely provides some insight for others who want to invest in a project.

I'm not running the Mishi cooler, just the Mishi stat. But all the oil coolers have the same issue.

Unfortunately this is the case, Mishimoto do sell a 92c thermastat which I'm running, but I still find I have to block the cooler off. You can also get a 100c stat from a few places. Thanks Will

Update 30/07/2020 - Bedford Autodrome Trackday - Video's Video 1: My fastest lap from the day, time 3:01.1 Video 2: Some track action featuring @Deacon

Update 30/07/2020 - Bedford Autodrome Trackday #2 Two Bedford trackdays in one month, I must be crazy 😅. Ofcourse that's not completely true, I really enjoy the circuit and Javelin released a last minute date in July, so decided to jump on the chance to do another trackday whilst there was some free space and to make up for the 4 months without any trackdays earlier in the year. The day was excellent and well organised, there were a couple of stoppaged throughout the day but these were cleared up relatively quickly. Luckily I was always in the pits when these happened, so didn't affect my track time. The main issue from the day was the track temperature, it was a very hot day 30c, and little cloud cover meant the circuit(tarmac) heated up very quickly. This was an issue for both myself & @Deacon as we started to suffer with tyre grip issues, meaning we had trouble with the tyre sliding around. However interestingly my PS4's held up better in the area, compared to @Deacon's Yokohama AD08RS, this could be down to the compound being better or the fact I'm running a slightly wider tyre (245 v 225). The temperature didn't stop me from putting in some fairly quick lap times. On the 2nd session I managed to come close to matching my previous best time from the 1st Bedford day in July, only a few tenths away. I assumed after this it'd be game over and no more improvement, just because of how hot it was. However this filled me with confidence in my setup and that I'm getting more consistant on circuit, atleast at Bedford anyway. The times fell throughtout the day with one banzai lap at the end of the day, which dropped me down to a 3:01.11 lap, this was so close to being 3 minute dead lap. Unfortunately about 75% of the way round I caught up to a slow Lotus Elise at the wrong place which meant I had to slow down, losing me a vital second. Whilst annoying it's not the end of the world as I now know the car is capable of a sub 3 minute lap and with a couple more days at Bedford that should eventually happen. I suspect with some proper instruction and better tyres (semi-slicks) I could actually shave off another 10 seconds, I'm not quite taking the best line through some corners and not braking as late as possible for others. Overall it was a good day with no issues and some fast laps completed, so I'm very happy with how the car is performing at the moment. I still need to look at changing the rear brake pads, as I've previous mentioned. Here are some photos: