Sideways?

that second video makes it look like he just drove straight into the lamppost...! What a twit...

good diagram from Burn! Motorsport. Rob, in the states I believe people have had trouble with driveshaft joints going pop when the car is lowered more than a sensible amount because they effectively run out of travel (as per the first diagram above), the idea being to raise the diff up in relation to the rest of the suspension to reduce the angle of the driveshafts and improve the situation... I imagine there are side effects to do with the suspension geometry in relation to the driveshafts but if you're slamming it that far anyway you probably don't care much for outright grip and handling... The spacer option is a clever idea but I think both (risers or spacers) are not required if you only lower a little anyway. As for fitting stiffer bushes I imagine it is the same trade off with all bushes - stiffer = more vibration and noise in the cockpit but better control over movement of the particular component... I haven't heard anyone using stiffer mounts but I would hardly say I'm an oracle on GT86 tuning and who's done what!!

Forever

Hi Tony, you realise this is a UK based group... And it is always polite to introduce yourself first...

And so, given you HAVE to have them, in general driving you will notice very little difference - possibly slightly slower / softer steering response and maybe a bit more road noise. The majority of responses so far have been generally concerned with "sporty" driving where you're looking for responsiveness and outright grip and on that front it's horses for courses - winter tyres are constructed completely differently to summer tyres for a different set of conditions / requirements...

Quite apart from the "temperature they work at" I've found they clear standing water significantly better than summer tyres, so if we have a very wet winter with lots of water everywhere they will be better suited to the conditions in my opinion - even though they feel a bit softer than a summer tyre and there is a difference in outright grip until you get down to very cold, in the cold (or chilly) and wet I rarely find that the car limits cornering grip, 9 times out of 10 it is the driver... At least in my car...

*deletes unhelpful comment about "efficient", "safer", "engine cleaning"* Congratulations Chosenman007! You have a more powerful car, a reasonable gain for a reasonable cost and the graphs to prove it, excellent job, well done for taking the plunge with this unknown, untried, untested technology! It seems this whole saga has been a learning curve for everyone, thank you for investing your time and money in our education, now we know who to turn to if we want to get just a bit more power out of our FI cars Meanwhile, I'm going to stay NA, for a number of reasons, but I'm glad someone is doing something a bit "alternative" to the Norm...

Ground Control in the States sell strut top risers to reduce lost suspension travel when lowering the car, stupid IE / Forum combination won't let me paste a link but you're looking for www.ground-control-store.com and then Other Makes, Toyota and you'll find them there...

Griff, a quick 101 on air compression - when you compress air it heats up (think bike pump body gets hot after inflating a tyre) therefore purely from an air temperature perspective it is hotter after the supercharger. Additionally, the metal of the supercharger gets hot 1) because it is strapped onto the engine, 2) because it is fed with engine oil and 3) because it is doing work on the air to compress it. So while you might get a greater reduction in air temp injecting meth after the charger, the air would be hotter to begin (due to heat transfer from the body of the charger) with so the final charge temp wouldn't necessarily be lower. James, a direct question, have you ever experienced carb icing? If you have you will know what happens when the intake air temperature gets very cold. In short, colder is generally better, but not always because there is a point where the curve starts going backwards and things get worse. NB I don't know where that point is on our cars and I also don't know how close to it you will get so it might not be a problem, but like everything I've said before it is not as black and white as you make out (or rather, your posts come across)...

What that means is my GT86 is 2-years old today!! Well, ok, I picked it up 2-years ago today anyway :-)

where are Lauren's competitive prices?! How much for the manifold?

Yokohama W-drives on old Subaru impreza 16 inch 5-spokes... 205/50R16's I think :-)

Didn't anyone else get an email from Toyota about a free trackday competition to go to Oulton Park...? The day is on the 5th June I think... Could tie-in somehow perhaps...?

How about the Goodwood drifting on the Saturday? Then a drive on the Sunday maybe??

I'm waiting for the days when people start making those covers out of chrome or polished stainless... I think a clear Perspex one would be good, you'd hardly notice it... Otherwise, they're handy for ensuring that nothing gets chewed by the alternator belt, or the alternator belt doesn't get chewed by anything - its kinda important since it also runs the water pump...

How much is the quick shift kit?? I know the STi one includes a whole new lever but is very expensive but not heard about the TRD one...

Totally agree with other posters, insurance is a must, the only time I've been was in my Classic Mini, hence I didn't bother with insurance because a) it wasn't very fast, and I could put it back together if I broke it... It has the nickname the "mini-Nurburgring" (or something like that) and should be approached as such because it is twisty, hilly and there are plenty of things to hit pretty much all the way around the circuit!! Not to mention the camber changes as Spec K posted...

Apart from the fact that the first post says; But I agree, it is a rather strange situation all round, on the one side Toyota have a sports car partnership with Subaru while on the other they have an engine partnership with BMW... Hopefully the two will be mutually exclusive and we can have a more powerful Subaru engined GT86/BRZ without BMW getting upset... We will see! (ps. stupid IE is not letting me copy and paste or quote, its a pain in the arse...)

Looks good, simple and elegant design at a good price. I have no idea what makes it look "weak" to you Rob, those mounting brackets look like about 5mm plate so should be roughly as strong as the OEM angled tower braces. The brackets are small, compact and low profile to the forces that the bar is designed to resist... There are no bolted joints or bends in the bar, couldn't be better really...

Now, that is a serious weight saving over the OEM one...! *looks for price on website* Not too unreasonable... What are the benefits of an aluminium flywheel over a steel one? Can this flywheel be used with a standard OEM clutch or is it aftermarket only like the Helix flywheel?? I'm not in a position to buy but I still like to dream (and plan...)

I was lucky enough to enjoy a Jaguar F-Type production line tour on Wednesday this week and I have to say the Coupe looks absolutely beautiful in "real life"... The plant is pretty fascinating too

That is pretty cool, thanks for sharing!

You decided to come back to the fold then...? I'm not sure if you'd be able to do it, but I think your best option is to find a dealer with an ex-demo that is roughly the right "base spec" (i.e. pearl white, auto, red/black interior) and go from there... Otherwise I think you'll struggle to find a dealer willing to order you a car specifically, then modify it for you, then sell it to you. At least with the above approach the car is already registered so they should be able to show on the paperwork that you bought the car first, then had it modified and then paid for it - as opposed to Toyota GB selling you a car with non-warranty approved modifications on it from new... I hope that makes sense! Oops! you said you wanted a used on already... Find a friendly dealer and then go from there...

is there a link online? I can see some other interesting stuff online but not the battery charger... might have to pop in the one down the road since I was looking for a Smart charger for mine...

The VSC is pretty advanced on the GT86, but I find it can get confused and end up doing some "funny" things... As I understand it, the VSC takes inputs from steering angle and yaw rate accelerometers as well as the wheel slip sensors. It might be the case that at the first set of lights you were all going in exactly a straight line, there was no camber on the road and the TRC Off / VSC Sport mode just let the car do its thing, while for the second getaway there might have been a little steering angle, or the road was cambered, or one wheel initially hooked up better than the other and it confused the system, it thought you were about to have a massive accident and hence cut the power. It does have to be said that the VSC can be pretty aggressive when it cuts in, hence the feeling of stalling.