MartinT

The Rogue or Ace look very interesting. I think I've just suffered from a tolerance issue with my TD. I've looked at other cars and they have maybe 1cm or more clearance, I have a couple of mm at most. However, I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the TD, I just don't want all that heat around. Remember that my supercharger generates more heat already and I haven't run it in the full summer yet.

I am beginning to get irritated with the TD UEL manifold. Let me explain. The manifold has a peculiar shape that comes up into the engine bay and then goes down again. I know that it's designed for their turbo which sits high up in the bay. However, I went with a Harrop supercharger so there is no need for it. That would be fine if it wasn't for the huge amount of heat it brings into the bay, and worse still, the incredibly close brush with the top water hose. I have re-wrapped the exhaust three times and the water hose twice (Abbey also did it during the service) and, no matter how much I twist the hose to increase the gap, there is rubbing and eventually it wears the wrapping away causing contact and smoke. I've reached the point where I've had enough of it - it's a serious point of weakness in an otherwise strong car. So, the question is: what other catless UEL manifold could I buy that gives the same or better performance, to replace the TD with? Preferably with a ceramic coating option. Will it be a straight swap? A remap is not a problem.

The TD super-resonated exhaust system does have a nice deep growl to it. With the standard resonator I found it too raspy and droney, especially on motorways. Try to decide whether you will go for a turbo in advance. If you go with a supercharger (like me), it will be louder so you will want a quieter exhaust.

Porsche.

The boxer engine gives the BRZ/86 its character. Putting in an anodyne in-line four would ruin its appeal, as far as I'm concerned. BMW engines are great in BMWs.

There are so many things in that article that I don't agree with. The obvious one is a move to the 2.4l engine. Forget the numbers, it will feel much more flexible in real-world acceleration and pickup. Some people seem to be expecting a Supra for 86 money. Not going to happen. We should be grateful that such a car still exists in this age of anodyne electric bore-fest.

I have a facelift BRZ so engine oil temp is in the dash. I also have a manual gearbox. The AFR is a standard selectable display, I didn't need a code for mine. Also IAt is a useful one. And MAP as I had a 3-bar MAP sensor installed for boost. 100 is atmospheric air pressure.

It's the alarm/immobiliser fitted for the UK. You're not wrong about the drain, though. Mine took a goodly amount of charge after not being used last week. Sent from my LG-G7 using Tapatalk

Fantastic work and choice of colour, Sam. I hope you don't spoil it all by 'stancing' it!

...or you can put an Eonon Android head unit in and have the choice of Android Auto or, even better, native Waze. It doesn't cost a fortune either. Sent from my LG-G7 using Tapatalk

It's not the lowering, then. Mine's 30mm dropped. Wheels too large an ET? Otherwise, advice as above but I'm surprised if everything else is stock. Sent from my LG-G7 using Tapatalk

How much lower is it? Sent from my LG-G7 using Tapatalk

Agree it'll pass with the 2nd cat as long as it's hot. However, with a muffler delete it'll be stupid loud and that won't pass. It's supposed to be no louder than stock.

I enjoyed installing my STI front lip. My advice is to use an electric screwdriver and hex-base drill bits to drill the holes with easy control and slow speed. The fit is very good but the templates are not all correct for the facelift BRZ - double-check by offering up the lip and marking through its holes.

215 on 8.5 sound a bit of a stretch to me. I'd go with 225 tyres.

Yes, it does. A battery charger typically pushes out 8-10A which is not enough to crank the engine. Cranking current from the battery can be 100A or more for a couple of seconds. Further, a bad battery is going to absorb a lot of the juice from the charger to little effect except producing some heat.

My experiences with Bridgestone have always been poor, especially in the wet. Falken Azenis FK-512 are good, predictable tyres for not a lot of money. Michelin PS4 seem to be the best on our chassis. If I could find the Maxxis anywhere fitted, I'd give them a try.

The Alpine is no looker, to my eyes.

I'm surprised how quickly the alarm/immobiliser drains the battery. Using the CTEK charger once a week, it takes a fair old time to move from 4 on to completion each time, even if I've used the car once or twice. Sent from my LG-G7 using Tapatalk

I think my 225 PS4 tyres with supercharger make it playful and predictable. The Primacies are too willing to let go rather suddenly and are horrible in the wet. I wouldn't want 245s on it, either. Too sticky and not fun. Sent from my LG-G7 using Tapatalk

I bought a proper CTEK MXS 5.0 battery charger and installed a CTEK Indicator near the battery. It seems to be a good system and should keep this new battery in a good state of charge. I will drive the 40 miles to my new place of work on Monday to collect my account details and equipment and will then go back to remote working. My car needs to stay reliable!

I can only say that in my car, with the 2nd cat in place, the noise from the standard resonated system was loud and drony. I switched to a super-resonated and it improved a lot. Then I added the supercharger and it went up a bit. It's just this side of acceptable for me, fine on the motorway and a little loud going through the village. From my perspective, I simply could not live with a non-resonated system. I accept that others prefer more noise.

0W 20 is fine for a stock car. If you are boosted, 5W 30 is the preferred choice. These are generalisations.

Good luck with the saving! Sent from my LG-G7 using Tapatalk

I have - at last - finished working on the trapezoidal bezel to make it fit the Eonon head unit. It looks tidy now.