Pitman

My GT86 passed its MOT with only the AVO high flow cat (at a Toyota Dealer, so no fiddle)

The Yaris does have power steering as stock. My 1 liter 'donor' car came with electric power steering. The problem is, it is integrated with the main ECU for its input signals. In addition, it does not have the best reputation. I am going to be using a stand alone ECU (most probably Link G4+), so I need to be able to have a totally stand alone control system for the power steering. The T Sport comes with a hydraulic system, but I don't want to use this for two reasons - 1) the parasitical drag on the engine of the pump, and 2) I want to be able to control the level of assistance at higher speeds, to improve the feel and feedback through the steering Thank you, Nige I take it you mean moving the control unit of your power steering down onto the floor? I haven't actually seen the GT86 unit, but usually the servo motor is integrated into the column. it would take a far more knowledgeable person than me to reverse engineering the interface between the GT86 power steering control unit and the cars ECU - sorry . You know you are always more than welcome to come for a visit - we just need to find a mutually suitable time when the weather is at least semi-decent, and I am not having to work - the next month is our busiest period of the year.

Firstly, a MASSIVE thank you for all who have taken the time to post in support of the folly of a mad man As Mr Nicebiscuit stated so well in his post, for me the pleasure and challenge of building something unique and different is probably 90% of the pleasure for me. After completing my Engineering degree, I started my working career as a Product Development engineer for Toyota, so cars mean a lot more to me than just the bragging rights as to how fast I can drive around a given bend, or hang the tail out on a public road! It has been intimated that I am spending a lot of money on 'just' a Yaris - the reality is, I paid the princely price of £600 for the car, and all the T sport bits I have got to convert it have come via very judicious eBay and breaker yard shopping, and then refurbished. I am MAKING as many of the special bits myself as possible (for example, the bias pedal box cost about £70, which includes the two master cylinders). I could have bought a DC Electronics Power steering system for £2692 ( http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/electronic-power-steering/dc-electronics-motorsport-electronic-power-assisted-steering) plus their steering ECU for a further £1713 (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/electronic-power-steering/dc-electronics-ultra-race-ecu-for-motorsport-epas-system), but instead i have made my own (using exactly the same mechanical and electrical components which just happen to have been fitted to a certain small hatch back which cost me £30 from a breaker yard), and am making my own ecu interface which will take the speed signal from the ABS hub on the rear wheel to make the power assistance speed sensitive. The result will be exactly the same functionality as the DC Electronics one, but at a cost of less than £50 all in. The same applies to the fully adjustable front suspension, and the inlet and exhaust manifolds etc., all of which I have / will be making myself. So, by the time the car is finished, it will have cost me a LOT less that what I could possibly hope to buy even the tattiest used GT86 to use as a basis of building a dedicated track car. None of the 'high cost' items I have / will be buying - turbo, ecu, front brake calipers, electronic dash etc. are in any way unique to the Yaris, so if I do ever get bored of the car and decide to strip it down and sell off the parts, I will loose a lot less than the depreciation on any car on the road.

Love these comments in the description: Worth every penny. Don't miss out on this one. First to see will buy. Value for money. A bargain not to be missed.

Thank you for the support It could well be, as Rob says, Lauren 'having a bit of a laugh' - there is a hell of a lot about Lauren that I don't pretend to understand, including her sense of humour. What I do know, however, judging by her posts in general, is that she is somewhat self opinionated. So be it. A very strong motivation for me going to the extent that I am with my Yaris folly is as a direct result of her total negativity towards the Yaris when I first muted the idea of building a Yaris for the TSS . I refuse to let the attempt to be funny (if what Rob posted is true) get under my skin - the positive support and comments I have got from everyone else is worth far more to me.

Thank you guys for the positive comments @GT86Owner, they are Tein MonoFlex with pillow ball upper mounts - here: http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Model_41/Category_2/2369 @smudge - I think if you look too closely, you may find a lot of places I missed with the painting @Lauren - luckily everyone does not share your dislike for the Yaris - nothing wrong with doing something different! Bit harsh saying that the builds that Nigel and I am doing are follies - different strokes for different folks and all that . No reason why I won't get it finished . Just in case, I will be adding a mounting bracket for a Zimmer Frame to the roll cage!

Cheers, Rob - that is the plan.

I blame the sudden cold weather for fuddling my brain

Chris, As standard, the GT86 has a two cats - a primary cat in the exhaust manifold (which was replaced by the AVO turbo manifold) and a secondary cat in the front 'cat' pipe, which you replaced with a 3" catless pipe. So, unless you have had it changed since your turbo kit and Ultimate racing exhaust was fitted, you car does not have any cat, so will definitely not pass the MOT emission test. my car has the AVO 3" overpipe and highflow cat pipe, and it has passed its first MOT. Your best bet will be to get an aftermarket cat fitted in the front pipe. As an aside for anyone who is running a totally catless system, a word or warning, if you have the misfortune to have to make an insurance claim, you could find that your car is technically uninsured (I was told this by Sky Insurance), which is why I had the AVO cat pipe fitted to my car, way before the first MOT was due. Dave

Thank you, Nige - I don't think any build will come close to yours! Yes, the car is on stands on the drive - no room in the garage with my son's bike and all the tools and other equipment

Photobucket now playing ball, so some pictures Sprayed interior (I managed to crack the windscreen when I was putting the role cage in, so didn't bother to mask it when I was spraying as it will have to be replaced) Engine compartment - excess holes in the dash welded up, and the battery tray removed (battery will be going inside) Electric power steering Front subframe and suspension fitted (Tein coilovers) Bias pedal box for the brakes, and the clutch master cylinder: The back suspension is also in, buy I havn't taken any pictures of it yet.

Build not dead - just not had time to get on the interweb much with being uber busy with work It seems that Photobucket is down - when I can, I will upload some more pictures. The interior (roll cage, seat mounts, etc) are all welded up and the interior sprayed. I have also welded up all the extra holes in the dash, and resprayed the engine compartment, as well as the underbody. Suspension is in, and when it warms up a bit, I will finish the brake and fuel lines, so I can put it back onto some wheels. I still hope to have the car ready for the 2016 TSS, a lot depends on how much time I can get to work on the car with work (and how cold the winter is!).

A massive thanks to Richard and his RRG team for doing my GT86T's first MOT this morning. Well worth the 89 miles each way journey for the level of service you get

Church, PM me you PayPal account details, and proof of how much you paid Jay, and I will refund you your money. I will then sort it out with Jay, but at least you won't be out of pocket. Dave

Thank you Mark, it is all progressing slowly - a LOT of work though for a one man show, especially when you have a 130 mile a day return daily commute to the day job :-) The seat is being bolted (via the OMP side mounts) to proper 1" CDS seat mounts, which are fitted through the side sill and transmission tunnel, as per Group 4 rally Escorts: http://www.motorsport-tools.com/weld-in-seat-mount-rail-kit-mounting-sub-frame-cds-rail-tubes-race-rally-car.html The tubes are perfectly straight, it is just my crappy camera that makes them look curved Super Capacitor is on back order Thanks, Nige In board or outboard for the joints? Inboard are High strength Aurora (5/8" shanks) - I took you advice after our chat when I collected the exhaust. Outboard is a spherical bearing, fitted in a housing that will be tig welded to the arm, and a reinforcement plate added (the housing is currently just tacked so I can sort the angles out) I am basically copying the RIX Engineering Escort WRC set up: